Supercuda's on the way back...after18 years!

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BTW, These are the original grill shells and headlamp surrounds. I replaced the black support frames behind them as well as the plastic grills. Refinished the aluminium pieces by stripping with easy off and then sanding up to 2500 grit, then buffing with a bench grinder with 4 different compounds and buffing wheels. Came out very well but still need a few touch ups.
 
An update on my exhaust system ...

I have installed a complete new TTI exhaust system including the 2.5" pipes, X pipe with the shorty headers, Flowmaster mufflers and a set of 308 Accurate Exhaust stainless tips, also with a 2.5" ID. My buddy John had to tweak the pipes a little but have to say, the system looks great and doesn't show the pipes dropping below the framerails as much as they would with the full tube/collector headers. Probably a little HP trade off but the shortys allow me to drop the ride height and look much cleaner.
A word about TTI.. absolutely fabulous products, well packaged and included all the proper hardware/hangers etc..
Accurate Exhaust products.. beautiful exhaust tips, immaculate finish, only problem for me was they don't ship to Canada so I had to locate a different supplier, Mancini Racing Products. Also very good service !!
Hope this is of some help to FABO members , especially Canadians.
 
Replaced my system with TTI last year. 1 3/4 long tubes (used) with new 2 1/2 H pipe system and Dynomax VT mufflers. I love it. Also picked up about 1 MPH in the quarter mile over the old system.

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Looks great qkcuda.
I would have used the long tubes as well but, when the car is equipped with a 4-speed, the collector height changes and hangs down too far for my liking. With your setup with the auto trans, it looks like the exhaust is very tight to the framerails. Very nice , clean look !!
 
For all those who wonder what does it cost/is it worth it....

This is what I started with, this is the progression of what I did since I got the car in 1977, and this is where it is now 41 years later. My first car and learned everything I know about Mopars from it.

How crazy is this hobby?? Well, the guy who is helping me restore the car today , John Best , is a person I grew up with but lost contact with over the years. He was the first person to show me this car as he dropped by my house with the previous owner with it one night. A few years back , I learned that John was doing full restorations so I contacted him and showed him the car and he was very interested in doing the car as he had an integral part of its history as well. Here we are 41 years later and he's the one helping me restore it !!

What's it worth?? There's not a Hemi Cuda, Daytona/Superbird or anything else I'd trade for it...It has no price tag and Ill own it until I die.

I know most on here understand the passion...



Day one, Aug 28, 1977

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First attempt at resurrecting this Cuda.. We didn't have the resources available to us that we have now and although the pic makes the work look pretty crude, the results actually came out pretty good for the time. (early 80's)
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My First Car Show April 1983. Boy was I pumped!! 2nd place overall in a field of about 60 cars!!


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May , 2011 I decided that I wanted latest suspension and more power with a 4-speed. Start of the rebirth of Supercuda..


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September 2015 to present...

Deconstruction and metal repair/replacement including front frame rails, lower rad support, full floor pan, rear valence, roof panel, and, filling in the holes in the fender aprons where the shock bolt used to be.

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Awesome progress. Looking at the spare tire well and rear valance, was your car originally bronze, or were they grafted on from a parts car? Here is a day 1 shot of mine, from 1995.

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Awesome progress. Looking at the spare tire well and rear valance, was your car originally bronze, or were they grafted on from a parts car? Here is a day 1 shot of mine, from 1995.

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No, the color you are looking at is the original primer on the nos trunk floor pan that I installed back then, the valence is the original one painted ember gold.

Man you have done a lot with that car!! Do you have Caltracks on it??
 
Yes I installed the Cal Tracs after I switched to Nitto drag radials and started having wheel hop issues. Still working out the kinks, but I bought a new set of M/T drag radials which I hope will help.
 
Yes I installed the Cal Tracs after I switched to Nitto drag radials and started having wheel hop issues. Still working out the kinks, but I bought a new set of M/T drag radials which I hope will help.


I was considering Caltracks but decided to go with the Streetlynk rearsuspension instead. (Pics Below) It gave me more tire room, double adjustable Viking shocks , a four link setup and, Bill Rielly (RMS Suspensions) put together a 7/8" rear swaybar setup for me as well. I'm hoping I have all the necessary components to make my car launch hard as well as improve the handling.
We'll see....

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The RMS system is a beautiful piece, but way out of my budget for the way I use the car. I did buy my adjustable strut rods from Bill if that counts. You were right about the way your exhaust is tucked up, looks great.
 
Thanks qkcuda!
Boy do I understand the budget part! I have been scrimping and saving, horse-trading and selling parts including dismantling and parting out my v-8 Jeep YJ project plus odd jobs helping others to fund this build. John pulled the invoice out of the box containing my electronic ignition last week. It was dated Jan/1999 !!! Seems that I've been collecting parts forever.
Thank God the end is finally in sight!!!
 
Thanks qkcuda!
Boy do I understand the budget part! I have been scrimping and saving, horse-trading and selling parts including dismantling and parting out my v-8 Jeep YJ project plus odd jobs helping others to fund this build. John pulled the invoice out of the box containing my electronic ignition last week. It was dated Jan/1999 !!! Seems that I've been collecting parts forever.
Thank God the end is finally in sight!!!
.......but wait.....there's more...lol
 
.......but wait.....there's more...lol


Oh My A56.... That's what I'm afraid of LOL !!

Oh well, to quote 'Sonny & Cher 1967.......... The beat goes on......
 
More resto pics.. this is the brake upgrade from 10" SBP to -11" BBP.

Note the actual size difference between the drums and shoes of the 10.5" and the 11" !!


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More Pics of Grill restoration...

Complete grill sections were disassembled, all the black mounting frames were replaced/repaired and refinished. Each aluminum part was stripped using Easy Off Oven cleaner, then sanded down with 400-2500 grit. Then polished using 4 different compounds on buffer wheel. Final polish with Autosol polishing paste.

Still have a few spots I need to go over but, overall, I'm satisfied. After all, these are 50 year old parts!!


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Hey guys,

I need a little help identifying these two wires in my new wiring harness. I'm thinking they are for the electric choke and the motor for the windshield washer bottle. This is a new Year one harness modified for electronic ignition. Its the brown wire crossing over the two blue wires on the driver's side inner fender and the green wire that's next to the brake lines in the picture below.

Thanks for any help you can give me.View attachment 1715087913


Well... I finally found out what the two extra wires were for in my new M&H wiring harness. One is brown, the other green with a white tracer as seen in the picture.

They are for the hood mounted turn signals!!

Hope this helps someone else..
 
The wiring gremlin saga continues...

Just installed the marker lamps , the front park lamps, rear taillight assemblies and the rear ID lamp. Everything works with the exception of the front park lamps and the front marker lamps.

Here we go again!

Traced the wiring to the front circuit via the terminal on the headlamp switch that feeds power to both front and rear circuits, all ok, Then traced circuit from headlamp switch to bulkhead connector, all ok so no broken wiring, bad connections etc.. Moved to engine compartment and checked all the wiring harness to the park lamps , again, no breaks, shorts. I powered up the park lamps using a 12 volt source so eliminated bad ground . Totally stumped so I got the original engine compartment wiring harness and compared the wiring in the connector to the new M&H wiring harness I bought from Year One.
Bingo!! The connector was wired completely different that the original. I redone the new M&H connector to the configuration of the old unit and re-installed. Everything now works perfectly!!

Moral of this story.
1. Don't assume because its new that it is correct.
2. Don't throw anything original away until you have finished your restoration.
3. Even the good suppliers Fu%K up so check everything before you install it. I could have just as easily lost my car to a wiring fire given the right circumstances with new wiring harness assembly errors.

Thanks for listening to my rant.
 
The wiring gremlin saga continues...

Just installed the marker lamps , the front park lamps, rear taillight assemblies and the rear ID lamp. Everything works with the exception of the front park lamps and the front marker lamps.

Here we go again!

Traced the wiring to the front circuit via the terminal on the headlamp switch that feeds power to both front and rear circuits, all ok, Then traced circuit from headlamp switch to bulkhead connector, all ok so no broken wiring, bad connections etc.. Moved to engine compartment and checked all the wiring harness to the park lamps , again, no breaks, shorts. I powered up the park lamps using a 12 volt source so eliminated bad ground . Totally stumped so I got the original engine compartment wiring harness and compared the wiring in the connector to the new M&H wiring harness I bought from Year One.
Bingo!! The connector was wired completely different that the original. I redone the new M&H connector to the configuration of the old unit and re-installed. Everything now works perfectly!!

Moral of this story.
1. Don't assume because its new that it is correct.
2. Don't throw anything original away until you have finished your restoration.
3. Even the good suppliers Fu%K up so check everything before you install it. I could have just as easily lost my car to a wiring fire given the right circumstances with new wiring harness assembly errors.

Thanks for listening to my rant.
did ya make a note of it on the new schematic? might be able to shoot them an email for correction.
 
did ya make a note of it on the new schematic? might be able to shoot them an email for correction.



Ya A56 , in the interest of helping out the hobby, I'll send them the correction but it really pisses me off that little ole me has to be responsible for some major corporation's quality control. I paid a lot of money (over 1000.00 Canadian) for the wiring harnesses I bought from this company. I didn't cheap out and buy Chinese junk but I'm still no farther ahead. Don't get me wrong, the harnesses look factory correct, have the correct types of pins and connectors, the wiring colors are dead accurate.
Why, after all this couldn't they put in the proper checks and balances to make sure it was correct?
They dropped the fu%king ball !! No sense saying buy local if the quality is no better and still charge premium price!!

Sorry everyone for the rant but this really pisses me off!!!
 
More Trouble!!

So we are getting the engine ready to fire. Fill up with break-in oil , use a drill to prime the oil pump and check circulation. A quick look under the car and....Oil everywhere!! No obvious signs of a leak point but oil is pouring out of the back of the engine between the block and the bell housing. We have no choice but to remove the transmission and find a screw in dowel missing from the back of the engine . Fu%K ! Fu%k Fu%K !!! Stupid mistake again by me.
The only reason for this post is to make sure I haven't missed something else. The top of my Magnum 360 is typical Edlebrock heads/Airgap Performer intake /full roller cam/front of engine switched to LA style timing cover, pulleys etc.. I

Is there any reason this dowel is not installed? This engine was professionally built by a well known Canadian Engine builder who specializes in Mopar engines.

Thanks for any help with this.
 
More Trouble!!

So we are getting the engine ready to fire. Fill up with break-in oil , use a drill to prime the oil pump and check circulation. A quick look under the car and....Oil everywhere!! No obvious signs of a leak point but oil is pouring out of the back of the engine between the block and the bell housing. We have no choice but to remove the transmission and find a screw in dowel missing from the back of the engine . Fu%K ! Fu%k Fu%K !!! Stupid mistake again by me.
The only reason for this post is to make sure I haven't missed something else. The top of my Magnum 360 is typical Edlebrock heads/Airgap Performer intake /full roller cam/front of engine switched to LA style timing cover, pulleys etc.. I

Is there any reason this dowel is not installed? This engine was professionally built by a well known Canadian Engine builder who specializes in Mopar engines.

Thanks for any help with this.
Don't worry, you're engine builder was serious and cleaned the oil gallery, unfortunately he forgot the plug. there are some freezer plugs too in the back. I prime my engines on the engine stand, measure the pressure with Ohm Meter on the original pressure switch or a gauge. I would fill the engine coolant with a vacuum cooling system filler, it's perfect clean, you're new engine has no air bubbles in the cooling system.
Good luck and enjoy the first run!
 
Thanks for the advise Plymouth 4onthefloor, I'll be sure to check everything this time.
Great suggestion on the coolant btw!!
 
Ya A56 , in the interest of helping out the hobby, I'll send them the correction but it really pisses me off that little ole me has to be responsible for some major corporation's quality control. I paid a lot of money (over 1000.00 Canadian) for the wiring harnesses I bought from this company. I didn't cheap out and buy Chinese junk but I'm still no farther ahead. Don't get me wrong, the harnesses look factory correct, have the correct types of pins and connectors, the wiring colors are dead accurate.
Why, after all this couldn't they put in the proper checks and balances to make sure it was correct?
They dropped the fu%king ball !! No sense saying buy local if the quality is no better and still charge premium price!!

Sorry everyone for the rant but this really pisses me off!!!

Is it possible that this harness fits multiple years and newer cars are pinned differently?
 
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