1967 Dart stiff steering after replacing Idler Arm

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Dana67Dart

The parts you don't add don't cause you no trouble
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Just replaced the idler arm and now the steering will not return back to center. The arm is the same dimensions as the old one. It only goes in one way. Might be that the caster was off before and the tight idler is exacerbating the lack of return.

It is possible that the toe is off, now that the slop is gone. Ill be lifting the front to see if there is any resistance anywhere tomorrow.

Any thoughts?
 
I don't think so 40 and 45 ft lb plus a little to line up castle nuts. The foam / rubber gasket between mount and joint had a nice amount of space so no binding there. The joint on the center link end took lube easy, the other end I was hard pressed to get lube into it but I did.

Being a 67 it is a one sided joint on both ends.
 
Remove the frame end and see how tight it is in the centerlink; that is to say, how difficult is it to rotate. If that end is free, then check the other end,installed, and the center link split off.
I swear some of the aftermarket stuff is pure junk. Moog and TRW used to be the suppliers of choice, but I heard they are now also manufacturing offshore.
I noticed the change in around 2008 when I was still an alignment tech.
Good luck.
 
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Will do.... I bought the idler arm from pst. it looks like a well built part and as stout as the one replaced (not oe but an 80s replacement)
 

It was aligned with a worn idler arm at some point. Jmo

So now does it need corrected left when drive? Or pull? That would make sense.
 
Doesnt pull any diferent than before just wont return to center. After i check no binding and replace the upper bushings. Ill get it aligned
 
Steering Axis Inclination
The angle that an imaginary line makes with respect to the groundplain, thru the upper and lower balljoints, as viewed from the front.

When you turn the steering wheel the geometry of the front end actually lifts the front of the car. That weight now wants to come back down, you know, gravity and all that. The raised weight can only return to rest by turning the wheels back, which it can do if you allow it to. But every pivot point in the system must be free as well, and the steering box,very important, must also allow it.
Some guys make the mistake of trying to remove "perceived slop" by over-tightening the sector-shaft end-play, which makes the auto return system very difficult or impossible. That's why RRR mentioned the FSM procedure.
The A-body auto-return system is weak because the factory caster/camber settings are almost miniscule, as is the SAI, and radial tires just don't push as hard as the original type tires.
So if you want to improve things, the best you can do is install the problem-solver UCA bushings, which can improve your caster to perhaps 5 degrees at O camber. By the time you dial in .5 degree negative camber, you might be down to 3.5 caster. That's about as good as it gets without spending a lot of money. For a citycar I would set both sides the same.
 
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Steering Axis Inclination
The angle that an imaginary line makes with respect to the groundplain, thru the upper and lower balljoints, as viewed from the front.
Thanks never heard the term before.
 
Well I lifted the front and was able to rotate the steering system lock to lock and the only resistance was at center. Steering gear might be a bit too tight at center. Did notice that at either lock the steering shaft had what I believe to be excessive play. the shaft would move laterally in the housing when near the lock and the wheel were rocked back and forth.
 
Well I lifted the front and was able to rotate the steering system lock to lock and the only resistance was at center. Steering gear might be a bit too tight at center. Did notice that at either lock the steering shaft had what I believe to be excessive play. the shaft would move laterally in the housing when near the lock and the wheel were rocked back and forth.

In and out is kindof normal; radial is not.
The first couple of degrees just activate the control valve by pushing it left or right to get boost happening. If you have tightness on center then boost happens sooner and harder. Tightness on center is bad; it will cause you to chase the steering all over the road and you will think it's looseness, when it is just overly sensitive to boost.
 
The first couple of degrees just activate the control valve by pushing it left or right to get boost happening.
Manual gear box.

I will have to dig into what is where on the gear box output shaft. and see what can be tightened
 
OOps
But the on center chasing part, still applies
But end play does not, there should be just enough sector-shaft end-play, to allow the on-center tightness to be zero. Again if there is tightness, you will be constantly correcting, chasing the car from one side of the lane to the other, because the self-centering feature is defeated; the car goes only where you point it.A little loose is better than a little too tight.

The shaft going in as the extension from the steering shaft should have zero play in any direction.I loaned my FSM out so I can't verify, but from memory, that box has tapered bearings on that upper input shaft, so a little preload on this one is/would be permissible.
 
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I looked at the service manual and it does not seem very straight forward as to adjustments. My guess is the output shaft has excessive ware on its shaft or bearing surface that would allow for the lateral shaft movement, I have notes from my dad that he "adjusted the steering gear" but no details on what he did. Wish he was still with us to ask :(

The odd thing is that the car self centered and returned to center just fine before the idler arm replacement and after the two upper ball joints were replaced. Only thin I can think of is the toe is off with the improved center link geometry
 
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