Lunati cam 20200713 Questions

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Bob1958

Bob1958

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I picked up a Lunati hyd. roller cam 20200713 Duration @ .050 243/251 and 0.560/.0565 valve lift. Anyone using this cam? I looking at building a 340 stroker most likely using a 3.79 stroke .030 over 340 for 394 CID, 10.5 to 11:1 compression. 4 speed 390 gears 29" dia. tire 3000# 69 Dart. Mildly ported Eddy heads looking to make 500HP. would like to pull strong up to 6000 to 6500RPM. What do you think?
 
I think that's a good choice. "Don't know" if it'll make 500 HP or not, but it'll be right in the ballpark with most everything else "around that size". Also, it depends on WHAT HP you're talking about. Net HP, then I think it'll be struggling. Gross HP, then I think you'll be eatin 500 all up.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I think that's a good choice. "Don't know" if it'll make 500 HP or not, but it'll be right in the ballpark with most everything else "around that size". Also, it depends on WHAT HP you're talking about. Net HP, then I think it'll be struggling. Gross HP, then I think you'll be eatin 500 all up.
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Thank you for the info I forget to mention I will use either an M1 single plane intake or a 340 Victor and yes I was looking at gross HP
 
Bob1958 said:
Thank you for the info I forget to mention I will use either an M1 single plane intake or a 340 Victor and yes I was looking at gross HP
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In that case, I think you got it licked. lol
 
Hi, got this cam in my 408 since a month. it replaced a cam with 248°/248° with 113° LSA wich did not deliver the power i wanted, so i went back to a shelf cam with 110° LSA. It seems to pull similar to the bigger cam, 6500 rpm should be no problem....but due to the hydraulic rollers for me this is redline. I try to shift at 6000 rpm when racing.

Unfortunately i had converter trouble, so i did not a lot of testing yet. End of next week we´ll have the first race - then i can supply more information. But - as everytime - i see a cam change in future, wanna step up a little bit, around 246/254° @.050, 108° LSA. I think then the 500 HP will definitively be there with good cylinder heads.

What´s the intended usage of the car?

Michael
 
Looks good, should run well. I second the vote for the Victor...much better intake in my opinion (I have one on my 408).
 
Bob1958 said:
I picked up a Lunati hyd. roller cam 20200713 Duration @ .050 243/251 and 0.560/.0565 valve lift. Anyone using this cam? I looking at building a 340 stroker most likely using a 3.79 stroke .030 over 340 for 394 CID, 10.5 to 11:1 compression. 4 speed 390 gears 29" dia. tire 3000# 69 Dart. Mildly ported Eddy heads looking to make 500HP. would like to pull strong up to 6000 to 6500RPM. What do you think?
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Looks like a nice cam, but I personally will not run a Hydraulic roller set up again. They a VERY problematic in LA blocks. Do the research on this forum regarding issues with hydraulic rollers.
I am confident that some will disagree, I speak from experience.
Good luck with your build.
 
512Stroker said:
Looks like a nice cam, but I personally will not run a Hydraulic roller set up again. They a VERY problematic in LA blocks. Do the research on this forum regarding issues with hydraulic rollers.
I am confident that some will disagree, I speak from experience.
Good luck with your build.
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Thanks again for the good information car will be mostly be a Sunday drive street Car with frequent trips to the strip. both 1/4 and 8th. Ill start looking for a Victor intake.
 
Bob1958 said:
Thanks again for the good information car will be mostly be a Sunday drive street Car with frequent trips to the strip. both 1/4 and 8th. Ill start looking for a Victor intake.
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Pay very close attention to posts 5 and 8. There is no way I'd do that cam with hydraulic lifters. Ever.

Buy a solid lifter from Crower or Crane with an .810 wheel, set your lash at .002 COLD and never look back.

If you are running standard heads, I'd wait for the Trick Flow intake to come out. If you have the time to wait.
 
Bob1958 said:
Thanks again for the good information car will be mostly be a Sunday drive street Car with frequent trips to the strip. both 1/4 and 8th. Ill start looking for a Victor intake.
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With the intended usage, you may want to try a small solid roller. The cam I used in my previous 410 motor was the Comp XE286R (248/254 @ 0.05 and 0.576/0.582 lift). Its a small street roller, but it made my car run consistent 10.7's through the mufflers, with a best of 10.5 (cool air, tail wind, lol).

Another option is use a solid cam with Howards direct lube lifters (has an oil hole that goes to the cam). This is the route I took with my current motor and I'm very happy with it.
 
Between the two intakes, the Victor favors higher rpm power. It also has the benefit (IMO) of the square carb pad. The M1 isn’t a bad intake mind you. It MAY work better. That cam you listed is on the boarder line area. Even more so with the 3.79 crank.

Now on the cam itself, that is a step bigger than I normally like to run. I never really liked big Hyd. cams. The solid lifter cam just performs better and reaches a higher rpm hp than the hyd. does.

On Hyd. cams, I tend to yield at or around a 230/236 @050 duration. After that, I like the solid lifter better. FT or solid roller.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Between the two intakes, the Victor favors higher rpm power. It also has the benefit (IMO) of the square carb pad. The M1 isn’t a bad intake mind you. It MAY work better. That cam you listed is on the boarder line area. Even more so with the 3.79 crank.

Now on the cam itself, that is a step bigger than I normally like to run. I never really liked big Hyd. cams. The solid lifter cam just performs better and reaches a higher rpm hp than the hyd. does.

On Hyd. cams, I tend to yield at or around a 230/236 @050 duration. After that, I like the solid lifter better. FT or solid roller.
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Thanks again for great info
The deal I'm looking at is for the cam, lifters, pushrods and shims for around $300. I understand I don't want to buy something that won't work just to save a little money that's why I'm asking advise from you more experienced guys, I'm not trying for max effort but I do what to have a good combination.
Bob
 
What block do you have? I've got a LA-roller Cam Block, absolutely no trouble with the stock hydr. Roller setup. Same with Magnum Block......it works just fine if you limit the rpms somewhat. Some races i shifted at 6500 without trouble, but it really makes no Sense to go that high with such a Cam.
 
360duster said:
What block do you have? I've got a LA-roller Cam Block, absolutely no trouble with the stock hydr. Roller setup. Same with Magnum Block......it works just fine if you limit the rpms somewhat. Some races i shifted at 6500 without trouble, but it really makes no Sense to go that high with such a Cam.
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I have a 1969 340 block .030 over with a 3.79 stroke makes 394 CID do you think this cam won't pull strong up to 6500?
 
Bob1958 said:
Thanks again for great info
The deal I'm looking at is for the cam, lifters, pushrods and shims for around $300. I understand I don't want to buy something that won't work just to save a little money that's why I'm asking advise from you more experienced guys, I'm not trying for max effort but I do what to have a good combination.
Bob
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I like the combo. I myself would like a solid lifter cam at this duration level. It would not be a deal breaker for me.
 
Bob1958 said:
I have a 1969 340 block .030 over with a 3.79 stroke makes 394 CID do you think this cam won't pull strong up to 6500?
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IIRC, Dulcich and Freiburger installed a set of home DYI ported Edelbrock heads with a moved pushrod hole on top of a 4.00 stroker arm crank 360 and got a return of 92 additional HP that went to 530-ish HP with that same cam your looking at. They also used a Super Victor intake.

I can’t find it for free right now on the net. I’ll check it out later when I’m at home on “Motor Trend on Demand.”
 
rumblefish360 said:
IIRC, Dulcich and Freiburger installed a set of home DYI ported Edelbrock heads with a moved pushrod hole on top of a 4.00 stroker arm crank 360 and got a return of 92 additional HP that went to 530-ish HP with that same cam your looking at. They also used a Super Victor intake.

I can’t find it for free right now on the net. I’ll check it out later when I’m at home on “Motor Trend on Demand.”
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WOW I really appreciate your help that sounds like a great article love to read it. I do my own head work do you know of any wright ups on moving the push rod hole I think I heard Hughes might have a kit for this.
Bob
 
Hughesengines engines does do the work for you. I don’t know if they sell the rods to close off the pushrod holes. You can purchase them done from Hughesengines. Doing it yourself just requires an aluminum rod to plug the pushrod hole. It was discussed here at one point. I used to have a source of the aluminum rods saved. Somewhere, I screwed up and lost it. I’d like to get it again.

The above mention to the ported heads is not a write up but a video which you can get for free just by signing up at “Motor Trend on Demand.” They have a 14 day free trial. Steve used an epoxy mixed with aluminum shavings to fill the pushrod holes. He did some porting and then says in the video his buddy Brice finished it up. Brice is a non available person these days.

But! Since you can port a head, your on your way.
All I can say is when you move the pushrod over, think twice, work the head once. Realize the amount of offset you will need for the rocker arm. There are (and we’re) various offset rocker arms made (& discontinued) for various SBM heads. Hughes currently uses a .350 off set on there rocker arms that are used with there offset pushrod head. The only other currently made offset rocker arm I know of is the Harland Sharp W-2/5 or maybe Jesel or TD have something.
 
rumblefish360 said:
Hughesengines engines does do the work for you. I don’t know if they sell the rods to close off the pushrod holes. You can purchase them done from Hughesengines. Doing it yourself just requires an aluminum rod to plug the pushrod hole. It was discussed here at one point. I used to have a source of the aluminum rods saved. Somewhere, I screwed up and lost it. I’d like to get it again.

The above mention to the ported heads is not a write up but a video which you can get for free just by signing up at “Motor Trend on Demand.” They have a 14 day free trial. Steve used an epoxy mixed with aluminum shavings to fill the pushrod holes. He did some porting and then says in the video his buddy Brice finished it up. Brice is a non available person these days.

But! Since you can port a head, your on your way.
All I can say is when you move the pushrod over, think twice, work the head once. Realize the amount of offset you will need for the rocker arm. There are (and we’re) various offset rocker arms made (& discontinued) for various SBM heads. Hughes currently uses a .350 off set on there rocker arms that are used with there offset pushrod head. The only other currently made offset rocker arm I know of is the Harland Sharp W-2/5 or maybe Jesel or TD have something.
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Thanks I'll look into this I have Harland sharp rockers I could probably just get the 8 offset rockers. Thanks again Rumble
 
No problem. I don’t know who you’ll get off set rockers for a standard head from. Hughesengines will want to sell the whole set up as a package. You could go that route and resell your older rockers to offset the cost. IDK if you can make W2’s work.
 
rumblefish360 said:
No problem. I don’t know who you’ll get off set rockers for a standard head from. Hughesengines will want to sell the whole set up as a package. You could go that route and resell your older rockers to offset the cost. IDK if you can make W2’s work.
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I was thinking W2 econo off set rockers?
 
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