Aluminum heads

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Dan s

Dan s

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so I’ve been reading a lot about aluminum heads. The pros and cons of running them. Just curious what the thoughts people had about aluminum. I ask because I’m planning to build a motor this coming summer (340). Probly will be a stroker. I’m trying to see what kind of budget I need to have. I’m not gonna build a drag car. It will be a street motor. thanks for the reply’s in advance
 
A stroke motor will require good flowing heads. So no matter what brand aluminum heads you choose they will require some work. W-2 heads flow really well but require specific intake, rockers, and headers. 65'
 
I run aluminum a lot. It is fine for the street. The only as cast aluminum head worth there price/performance right now for street guys is the Trick Flow heads. The valve train is a little more pricier than others but the heads themselves and there Potential ability make it a very cost-effective and were they had to get up and running.

There is also the not so cost effective anymore Edelbrock head and Pro Maxx heads that are the slightly cheaper vs the TF heads.

W2’s are iron and can make some really serious steam if you put the screws to them and turn up the wick up high.
 
From the research I have did so far im Leaning towards the trick flows. At the rate I’m going I begin to wonder would it be cheaper to just buy a crate motor. But that would take the fun out of it. I think I need to sale my boat. Lol
 
Take a look at Blueprint Engines. Like most things it's cheaper to buy than build. That said, I build my own because I get alot of satisfaction from it. 65'
 
Dan s said:
so I’ve been reading a lot about aluminum heads. The pros and cons of running them. Just curious what the thoughts people had about aluminum. I ask because I’m planning to build a motor this coming summer (340). Probly will be a stroker. I’m trying to see what kind of budget I need to have. I’m not gonna build a drag car. It will be a street motor. thanks for the reply’s in advance
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They can work great if you get the right ones, the pretty much all have some modifications to make , minor , like bracketry for your accessories to line up again.
I think someone might have had to grind on one of them to put 340 manifolds on but I can't recall. There's an aftermarket Ironhead that you can get for like twelve hundred or so that flows close.
Lastly if you want to have a comprable production Ironhead you'll have to spend about 800 to a thousand bucks.
 
Well I just got off summit web site. Just window shopping I’m at 5600 dollars. That’s just rotating assembly, heads, rocker arms studs and oil pump. I already have an air gap intake (new in the box). And all of the msd that is on my 318 should work. The block I have has already been machined but will need to be checked out so that will probly cost a little more. I have a 318 that has a cracked block. Will the oil pump pick up work?oil pan? My carb on my 318 is almost new but I’m not sure it will be big enough(650). The cam would be the only big item that I’m missing. I think.
 
I'd go with a 750 cfm carb, oil pan and pickup with work as long as it's not from a truck. 65'
 
Plymouth 65 said:
I'd go with a 750 cfm carb, oil pan and pickup with work as long as it's not from a truck. 65'
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It’s from a truck. But I do have the one that’s in the car now. So I should be good there. I also have a set of u heads but not sure about the open chambers. That’s why I started looking at the aluminum ones. I have never built a stroker and would really like to but I don’t want to waste money with the trial and error process. Which is why I joined Fabo. Lots of good info here
 
Doing the research first is a great start. I'd look around for similiar builds. Remember the engine produces the power. Cam, converter, rear gear, weight, and tire size all have to work as a system. 65'
 
Dan s said:
Well I just got off summit web site. Just window shopping I’m at 5600 dollars. That’s just rotating assembly, heads, rocker arms studs and oil pump. I already have an air gap intake (new in the box). And all of the msd that is on my 318 should work. The block I have has already been machined but will need to be checked out so that will probly cost a little more. I have a 318 that has a cracked block. Will the oil pump pick up work?oil pan? My carb on my 318 is almost new but I’m not sure it will be big enough(650). The cam would be the only big item that I’m missing. I think.
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You don't need rocker studs with the trick flow heads or any other non magnum head.
 
Also. All of the rotating assembly “kits” don’t have the pistons I woul like to use. I would like to get the kb pistons that put it at 0 deck. I assume u can mix and match when you order. And Would the assembly come balanced or is that another out of pocket cost.
 
I have a freshly rebuilt 904 also. And I have a 727 that needs to be rebuilt. Which is better. The 904 has the locking torque converter if I remember correctly
 
Rotating assembly needs to be balanced with all rotating/reciprocating components. 65'
 
Well built 904 can handle up to 500 HP. it has less parasitic inertia than a 727. I use a 904 for all my small block builds. With that, I use the 68-72 904 none lockup. Have no experience with the later lockup 904's. 65'
 
Plymouth 65 said:
Rotating assembly needs to be balanced with all rotating/reciprocating components. 65'
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I’m taking that means torque converter also.

So last year when the trans came out of the truck is was in and my son rebuilt it with a new torque converter does that mean it was out of balance. Sorry for the noon questions but I’m curious
 
No torque converter, just the flex plate and vibration damper unless it's a fluid type damper. 65'
 
No, if something in the rotating assembly is out of balance you'll most likely notice. 65'
 
let's back up here for a moment, you say its a street car.......
Will you drag race it? or just a fun replacement eng for the street aka daily driver.
Week end cruzer/stomper????

If it's a fun daily driver = Stock replacement parts, bore job, make sure the valve don't leak and Have Fun.(stock replacement part = no balancing req.)
Weekend stomper..........Stroker is the sleeper!
Drag racing???Well you need to decide on a et range........like low 14s to 12s
It seems like everyone has a 10 sec car these day. Very much possible!..........the money buck just has to be much,much larger$$$$$$$
If fuel economy is any wears on you list aka a daily driver. You need to make sure the cam manufacturer understand this.(that applies to any level of performance you choose.)
 
Don't they make a stroker kit to make a 426 small block? I'd go that route.
 
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