Ddaddy
I'm changing the World... one pixel at a time!
That’s pretty damned fast. That is equivalent to fiber optic speeds.
Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
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Ddaddy
I'm changing the World... one pixel at a time!
Here’s what I run...
Question...single four barrel, tunnel ram, or cross ram...what are the thoughts out there for a fun, hot street car
Ddaddy
I'm changing the World... one pixel at a time!
Depends on the engine and what you want out of it. A single 4bbl on a dual plane air gap makes plenty of HP and is easy to tune. It’s only when racing that the minor advantages of the others come into play for a specific build.
First ask yourself what you will be using the car for and how you will be able to drive it 90% of the time...and then go from there.
Too many people have overbuilt street motors only to be disappointed with driveability for what they want to use it for most...and they sit parked in their garage because they just aren’t fun to drive or take on a casual cruise on a whim.
Wifi over wireless network. $80/month
Boy isn't that the truth.
Ddaddy
I'm changing the World... one pixel at a time!
Serviceable. Not terribly fast, but workable.
Ddaddy
I'm changing the World... one pixel at a time!
It’s why I retuned the 420 HP MP crate motor in my GTS. It was just too hot for street driving and cruising. It was built for drag racing and just wasn’t any fun to drive on the street so I dialed back the cam a bit and replaced the MP single plane with a dual plane. I also went back to a 650 cfm AVS Thunder carb for the new configuration. 750 cfm double pumper was too much and didn’t perform well for where I drive it 90% of the time.
Guy with his stroked 383 chevy is constantly having issues. Last round was cold start,he cranked choke closed,then wasnt happy and disconnected the electric choke altogether.
All his jiggery pokery just made it more difficult for me. My understanding of holley is marginal at best and when he starts twisting screws and what not it frustrates me to no end.
Wont leave it sit here long enough to go through the motions of cold starting,so its out of my hands. Grrr...
I am so agree with you. So agree.
Other guy with his 69 gts, i dont think he pokes around much, but he's a point and shoot kind of driver,likes to make it work. And it snorts!
Ddaddy
I'm changing the World... one pixel at a time!
More isn’t always better. A well tuned lower HP and displacement engine can be fun drive all day long with more smiles per mile than the overbuilt bigger ones that are too temperamental and specific to enjoy in general use.
Nobody ever had a great time driving a race engine daily on the street...but plenty of people have had a great time taking a street engine to the track once in a while.
Something to consider.
Nobody ever had a great time driving a race engine daily on the street...but plenty of people have had a great time taking a street engine to the track once in a while.
Something to consider.
So, you all make sense and I would likely like the single holley and the 440 set up I have now, but something "out there" is calling me...maybe just put the money towards the 340 6pack that belongs in the car...
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Thanks, Karl. I don't have any Holley parts left. I gave them all away to a member here trying to help him and never got a thank you, kiss my butt, or nothing. But, "I gave" so there it is. lol
So, what do you guys do when it comes to brake lines, do you buy original steel lines, pre-cut and bent and everything, or do you buy the same in stainless steel, or do you buy copper which is soooooooooo easy to bend yourself, or do you buy copper-nickel ?
Personally, I have only redone one entire car, and that was my first 1965 Dodge Dart station wagon. It got new lines in copper, and I double flanged all the ends myself.
And I see something I have never seen before. Some are copper nickel, and some are nickel copper.... what is the difference ?
Bill
Personally, I have only redone one entire car, and that was my first 1965 Dodge Dart station wagon. It got new lines in copper, and I double flanged all the ends myself.
And I see something I have never seen before. Some are copper nickel, and some are nickel copper.... what is the difference ?
Bill
Ddaddy
I'm changing the World... one pixel at a time!
A mildly warmed up 340 six-pack would be a blast to drive...all day long!
That engine doesn’t need much of anything over stock to become great fun and give miles of smiles!
No to copper. Ever. Ever. Ever.
I use some sort of steel alloy tubing. Bend and do the inverted flares myself. Now i do not do factory correct repairs,more function than form. Like the rad i put in the fargo, from a slant 6 car. Should be enough to do the job.
Because I have a block and heads but no rotating assembly, I was thinking 408/416 stroker. Would breathe through the 6 pack better
But the 6 Pac carbs are a turd to keep working well. The KISS approach is where it's at. A Edelbrock carb is easy to tune and will go years with no adjustment.
Brake fluid pressure is higher than the burst pressure of copper tubing.
And work hardening makes copper brittle.. also double lap flare creates a weak(leak) point.
Very true, but 6 pack is what was originally on the car, so when a 340 goes back in, it will be there too.
Good thing I sold my 331 hemi with the 6x2 intake I made. 6 Holley 94 carbs. Now that is some tuning I dodged.
Ddaddy
I'm changing the World... one pixel at a time!
That’s the balance I was thinking of. It is a GSS car, but it doesn’t need to be overdone. Why stroke it when 340 cubes is plenty...and true to its origins.
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