Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Yes @RustyRatRod it's a Red Ram. I was told it was a 241.

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Engine numbers are right behind the timing cover on the block's front china wall. You can go to hothemiheads.com and look up the numbers. That's the smallest physical size of the early Hemis. It would fit good in an early A. We have more than one member who put early Hemis in their cars, one was a 354 in a 65 Valiant 2 door. The Chrysler motors are pretty big though. The little Dodges like you have are a better fit.
 
It's been through 2 floods. I noticed rocker parts have been robbed too. It's full of river mud. LOL

That means nothing. I would try to save it if it was mine. You'd be surprised what you can do. As long as no hard parts are busted, I'd try to get it apart and cleaned up. Here's my 331 before and after.

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Buddy had a couple 331's years ago. One was built by a big time racer back in early days. Cant recall who.
It was raced, but only a few times.
Back when for sale ads were in a paper thing called a buy and sell. Bet he made the call with a rotary phone.
He sold them 10 or so years ago,
Probably for 1/4 of what they were worth.
 
I don't have anything to put it in. Bought it for a friend. He was going to put it in his man cave.
 
Guy with his stroked 383 chevy is constantly having issues. Last round was cold start,he cranked choke closed,then wasnt happy and disconnected the electric choke altogether.
All his jiggery pokery just made it more difficult for me. My understanding of holley is marginal at best and when he starts twisting screws and what not it frustrates me to no end.
Wont leave it sit here long enough to go through the motions of cold starting,so its out of my hands. Grrr...

cold start on Holleys is easy... Hook up the electric choke to a good 12 volt source, adjust the top butterfly so it is fully open when warm as a baseline and go from there...

I ran a holley 600 electric choke on a daily driver in Michigan summer and winter with no problems... Just pump the gas twice when cold start, crank the engine, when it kicks over let the oil pressure reach full PSI and then put in gear and drive it away - no bogs or stumbles when set up properly... I drove one for 7 years on my daily driver with no problem...
 
Thanks, Karl. I don't have any Holley parts left. I gave them all away to a member here trying to help him and never got a thank you, kiss my butt, or nothing. But, "I gave" so there it is. lol

You can count on me to give you a kiss my butt....
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So, what do you guys do when it comes to brake lines, do you buy original steel lines, pre-cut and bent and everything, or do you buy the same in stainless steel, or do you buy copper which is soooooooooo easy to bend yourself, or do you buy copper-nickel ?

Personally, I have only redone one entire car, and that was my first 1965 Dodge Dart station wagon. It got new lines in copper, and I double flanged all the ends myself.

And I see something I have never seen before. Some are copper nickel, and some are nickel copper.... what is the difference ?

Bill

You have to be careful of full copper lines... Copper work hardens with vibration and is known to crack...

I would go with steel.... Stainless steel can be difficult to double flare...
 
But the 6 Pac carbs are a turd to keep working well. The KISS approach is where it's at. A Edelbrock carb is easy to tune and will go years with no adjustment.

If you are familiar with Holleys it's not hard to keep the 6 packs running... You just treat them as a vacuum secondary 4 bbl with an extra set of secondaries...

Throw in the short yellow spring in each secondary pod, adjust the linkages so they are synchronized together and let-r-rip.....
 
Here's my transportation here in Viet Nam. Drive it everywhere. Just drove 20 klicks to an afternoon party. Beer Soon..:thumbsup:
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Good Morning MOPAR Nation!!
Looks like a lazy Sunday in here, or you all went to church??
Oh ok just lazy. :D
 
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