Yeah, there is that.
Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
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I lived just south of there in Sunnyvale for three years. Strange place. You have no idea how many times I got spit at and yelled at wearing my uniform getting lunch. I really hate that area. And it got worse since I left. Tell you the truth SF is ok but I would not go out of my way to go there personally.
to me, a cracked head is worth nothing but as a paperweight. I've paid to have heads repaired before and it never lasts.
What?? Take a closer look. Over easy eggs and toast, jelly, with a little seasoning,
So what is the good head and intake worth? And remember, valves and springs are not cheap for a Indy head.
Good head can be worth a lot! Especially twins.
Intake depends I would not go with a adapter, just two more place for vacuum leaks.
Intake depends I would not go with a adapter, just two more place for vacuum leaks.
intake, may 150-200. I wouldn't buy just one head, especially knowing its counter part is cracked. While there could be a million reasons for the cracking, must of them come from severe overheating. which means the likelihood of the current "good" head may have some cracking too
plus, no go putting an RB intake on an adapter. You'd be in it for more money than its worth. Anders, that just sound like a bad deal all around. Walk away would be my advice.
Let's back up the bus here a little. I missed the post where you mentioned what you were building and how you want to use it.
But then you have to find another Indy head and who sells a single?? Then your buying another pair.
I guess if you wanted Indy heads to say you had them that's your call.
To me I probably couldn't hear or tell if you were running them or a regular stock head. JMO.
Find a pair of 904 port then and then valve job and mill the surface to straighten them out. After you have them checked for cracks.
904s, i don't think I've seen 904s. Hmm. I've got a set of real nice 906s I bought off of Tim.
hes building a 400 I believe
Sorry.
I’m building a 400 stroker to 454” for my ‘66
400 block bored to 4.36”, Ford 460 pistons +030, 440 crank and 383 rods.
Ray found me a solid flat tappet cam in Tulsa.
Dam meant 906. Been dealig all day on some push button parts I have from the junk trans.
cool, I was confused, which is typical lol
I have a pair of 452:s in the basement, fluxed, cleaned and ready to get new guides, valve job and porting. I've been offered to buy them for $350 but after I put the machine work into them, they're another $6-700.
So you have a B block and need a B block intake.Sorry.
I’m building a 400 stroker to 454” for my ‘66
400 block bored to 4.36”, Ford 460 pistons +030, 440 crank and 383 rods.
Ray found me a solid flat tappet cam in Tulsa.
they are out there,just have to look bet you can find a good used one for under 150.
Apparently on a pretty strict budget? Out of the box heads should be disassembled and checked. FYI. I would check any head just to be safe.Sorry.
I’m building a 400 stroker to 454” for my ‘66
400 block bored to 4.36”, Ford 460 pistons +030, 440 crank and 383 rods.
Ray found me a solid flat tappet cam in Tulsa.
just me, but why not
By the time you get a 906 or a 452 set of iron heads ready to make 500 horsepower, with a mild cam (or a radical cam for that matter), you could have bought set of better aluminum heads. Well, unless you own a head porting shop.
Exactly, A friend bought a nicely ported pair of 906's from a guy that wanted more. They were all set up and ready to roll. He had them checked and bolted them to his fairly mild 440 and made 490+ horse and 500 ft/lb. (with a CH4B Edelbrock dual plane)
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