Dartin for Divorce

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Are you using a brake line or flare nut wrench on the proportioning valve or distribution block fittings? Usually helps keep the fittings from rounding off.

No I wasnt. I dont have one of those but I will be getting one tomorrow on the way home.
 
Hooked up the proportioning valve and figured my lines would connect right into it... nope i got to take a bath in brake fluid instead. Now to figure out how I'm going to connect it all. It's just surprise after surprise
 
3 runs to the auto store and new fitting later its hooked up!!

My fingers hurt, the metal lines are a pain in the *** to maneuver around that's for sure! I have to now figure out how to mount it as there isnt the same mounting ability as it was mounted on the diplomat, plus trying to fight the metal brake lines every step of the way. It's not the prettiest but it works for now (I know the brake warning light isnt plugged in at the moment)

Now to install control arm, tighten down every bolt, install shock, bleed brakes, and put gear fluid in rear end.

Let's hope my driveshaft gets done tomorrow and not monday then maybe I can take a couple of test drives and see how she rolls, and stops!

We are so close! Then next project?!
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Got home and checked to see if the prop valve was holding up. No leaks as far as I can tell with any of the lines or fittings! Let's go!

No call from the DS shop so heres to hoping for a monday pick up!
 
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Not to rain on your parade, and if someone who knows better chimes in listen to them instead of me. That said, this thought is about your other thread about the loops in the brake lines. The photo above does not have them. The loops are supposed to come fairly close off the master cylinder, then to the prop valve. This keeps flex (and heat?) from causing issues with the lines being rigid. Loops allow play, kind of like a shock absorber for the brake lines.
 
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Not to rain on your parade, and if someone who knows better chimes in listen to them instead of me. That said, this thought is about your other thread about the loops in the brake lines. The photo above does not have them. The loops are supposed to come fairly close off the master cylinder, then to the prop valve. This keeps flex (and heat?) from causing issues with the lines being rigid. Loops allow play, kind of like a shock absorber for the brake lines.

Yea I was thinking of putting the other lines with loops on it instead of those ones. I'm going to have to see if they connect to everything properly without having to buy adapters.
 
Here she is in all her glory! 3in x .65 tubing drive shaft should be adequate for my use. I'll pick up some tranny fluid on the way home. I'll have to figure out which club they hang out at first, but living in vegas tranny fluid shouldn't be to hard to find... :rofl:

Total price ended up being 280 as they forgot to add the tubing to the quote last week but I'm still happy with that.

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Well **** me!

I smashed my head, while I was trying to put on my lca the bolt/nut stripped(?), and a metal brake line broke. Apparently everything is not in my favor tonight.

I have extra pivot shafts and I believe I have extra nuts for them. I think the problem was I was trying to reuse my old pivot shaft and the nut was used on a different pivot shaft.

I'll go to oreilys later and grab one of their premade brake lines which will be long enough to go from the prop valve to the drivers side hose.

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Driveshaft installed fits great. It has about 1.25-1.5in where the slip yoke comes out of the tail housing of the transmission but I'm sure when the car is level it will go in a touch more. I also got some ATF+4 transmission fluid, 4 qts, and a new premade brake line from the auto parts store. Let's give this lca install another try today if I can get home before 7pm.

Ps- yes my head still hurts.

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What the actual ****! I cant catch a break! Again 2 steps back!

Put the passenger side torsion bar on, but when I was taking out the strut rod I have this pain in the *** plastic piece that caught the metal washer, metal bushing sleeve and the rubber bushing and it went down in the middle of the K-Frame. Tried fishing it out and I feel like I made it worse fml.

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I also didnt realize I had to take the LCAs back off to put the torsion bars on, which sucks.
 
Sorry, it's a telescoping magnet.

You shouldn't have to take the lower control arms off to put torsion bars on. Just slide them right in.
 
You shouldn’t have to take the LCA’s off, the torsion bars slide in from the rear.

Well **** me! I screwed up for nothing hah .

Sorry, it's a telescoping magnet.

You shouldn't have to take the lower control arms off to put torsion bars on. Just slide them right in.

Sorry my guessing game was about if I had one of those or not hah . I will soon though apparently!
 
Well **** me! I screwed up for nothing hah .



Sorry my guessing game was about if I had one of those or not hah . I will soon though apparently!
Lol. We’ve all been there at some point. The first time I tried pulling a gauge cluster, I didn’t realize I had to drop the steering column, and didn’t realize how brittle the cluster bezel was. Broke it all to ****! :BangHead:
:lol:
 
Yeah, if everything went smooth it wouldn't be as rewarding. At least that's what I tell myself, lol.

I should start telling myself that too because I'm just hating putting this thing back together :soapbox:

When its done... one day it is going to be glorious. I've been so slow getting it all put back together which stinks, but patients are keeping me crazy busy, I cant work on it while the family is sleeping and now I have tests starting back up in school.
 
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