InRogue
Well-Known Member
Heres the rotor at tdc, the distributor redone? It was part of the engine deal when I bought it, I did check the vacuum canister and it moved at 15* vacuum
Wheres the timing mark?
- Thread starter InRogue
- Start date
-
Turning rotor(mechanical advance) forward a few degrees and it snaps back?
InRogue
Well-Known Member
Like I said I couldnt see the timing mark, it was under the w/p so i added black electrical tape to the balancer so i could find where it was.
InRogue
Well-Known Member
Yes it does
InRogue
Well-Known Member
Just so everyone knows I'm new to Mopars, but it was the weapon of choice for my Rambler
PRH
Well-Known Member
Once again...... vacuum advance disconnected for checking/setting timing?
Has to be at idle, dist vacuum disconnected. If you cant back timing off, then mech timing is coming on too early or ecm is wonky. What’s left? Camshaft off? I dont like sending people on a wild goose chase.
I know this stuff isnt new to you, and its not much different from a chevy small block.
I know this stuff isnt new to you, and its not much different from a chevy small block.
PRH
Well-Known Member
Cam timing won’t affect the ability to set ign timing.
In the above pic, with the damper at tdc....... where is the number one plug wire in relation to the rotor?.
I don’t really understand the reference to the timing won’t move when you turn the distributor.
With the damper at tdc, If the distributor was positioned so that the rotor was pointing right at the #1 terminal......... provided the pick-up and reluctor are phased properly to each other....... it should be pretty close to firing right there at TDC.
If you set it up like that, and for some reason it’s showing 30-40* off....... there’s probably some sort of control module issue.
Is it a Mopar style control box, or an MSD type box?
Even if the advance weights were moving, I wouldn’t be expecting to see that much advance at idle.
And just in case...... “clockwise” retards the timing on a SB.
In the above pic, with the damper at tdc....... where is the number one plug wire in relation to the rotor?.
I don’t really understand the reference to the timing won’t move when you turn the distributor.
With the damper at tdc, If the distributor was positioned so that the rotor was pointing right at the #1 terminal......... provided the pick-up and reluctor are phased properly to each other....... it should be pretty close to firing right there at TDC.
If you set it up like that, and for some reason it’s showing 30-40* off....... there’s probably some sort of control module issue.
Is it a Mopar style control box, or an MSD type box?
Even if the advance weights were moving, I wouldn’t be expecting to see that much advance at idle.
And just in case...... “clockwise” retards the timing on a SB.
InRogue
Well-Known Member
InRogue
Well-Known Member
PRH
Well-Known Member
To the left..... I guess depends on if that’s standing in front of the car, or in the drivers seat.
With the rotation being clockwise....... is the rotor sitting before or after the #1 terminal?
If it’s before, then it shouldn’t have fired yet.
If it’s after, it should have already fired.
I would turn the dist so that the terminal and rotor are lined right up, and then see where the reluctor is in relation to the pick-up.
With the rotation being clockwise....... is the rotor sitting before or after the #1 terminal?
If it’s before, then it shouldn’t have fired yet.
If it’s after, it should have already fired.
I would turn the dist so that the terminal and rotor are lined right up, and then see where the reluctor is in relation to the pick-up.
InRogue
Well-Known Member
PRH
Well-Known Member
I meant, if the rotor was before the terminal, it shouldn’t have fired yet..... relating to timing.
I think you may need to sacrifice a dist cap to verify the rotor phasing(big hole in the top to look in with the timing light. Google it, there’s videos).
I think you may need to sacrifice a dist cap to verify the rotor phasing(big hole in the top to look in with the timing light. Google it, there’s videos).
Wont find a timing mark at 2000 rpm’s. Nuf said.
Very cool rambler. Alright, here da deal bees. You're not going to see the timing mark, most likely when the engine is running, as it sounds like it has a lot of initial timing.....and that's probably a good thing. Here's what you do. This way, the balancer is marked properly and can be timed up to 40*. That way, you will have marks on the balancer you can read while the engine is running.
How to - Hillbilly Timing Tape
InRogue
Well-Known Member
Nice.....I think you know what I mean
I have a dial type timing light, dial it back until you see timing mark at zero, then read the dial on timing light. There is the timing.
Questions:
Please reply to all the questions to help figure this out.
- Will the engine idle at 600-800 RPM?
- if not why not? (vacuum leak?, too much throttle opening?)
- if yes what is the timing at that RPM? (assuming you can see the mark)
- any chance the damper is off of an older SB that used the pass side indicator? My 67 273 uses the pass side indicator but the timing cover was changed sometime ago and has the drivers side mark too. they are about 70 deg off from each other IIRC
- Is your inability to retard the timing that the dist can not be rotated due to obstructions? (firewall, coil, etc)
- Have you tried putting the pickup on other cylinders to see where the timing mark lines up on each?
- Is it possible that the dist mechanical advance springs are missing or really wrong so full mech advance comes in almost instantly?
Please reply to all the questions to help figure this out.
InRogue
Well-Known Member
Just a matter of opinion, but I am not partial to the dial back timing lights.....unless they are high quality digital and those are pretty expensive. That hillbilly timing tape article will show you how to use the engine itself as the dial back and is much more accurate than most any store bought timing light. I prefer the simple non dial back light, because it's one less thing to worry about being inaccurate. Just one peon's opinion.
My dial back is a high end one. Right off the snappy truck..
nm9stheham
Well-Known Member
So just how many degrees are you turning the distributor? If your ignition timing is 40 degrees advanced, then you should be able to turn the distributor 20 degrees CW and get it to 0. Or will the distributor body not turn 20 degrees CW?
If you turn it that far, and the engine starts to misfire, then that sounds like the rotor is misaligned. If it just starts running with a poor idle, then you have some tuning to do.
Try setting to 20 degrees advance, where your damper mark is at the 10 mark CCW from the timing cover's 0 mark (based on your 0 Mark pix) and see how it idles.
Those are nice, but that doesn't help the OP. lol
I know. I should have mentioned it was used, the dealer took it on trade and sold it to me. Cheap.
Lots of guys have them, ask around maybe a buddy will loan you one.
Lots of guys have them, ask around maybe a buddy will loan you one.
That's true, they are very popular. Maybe he can luck up and borrow one. I had one years ago but somebody liked it more than I did. So I just use the engine now and an old NAPA standard light.
-
