Bronze gear necessary??

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Why not just make the roller cams to install and use a normal gear.
'cuz the material for a roller cam can't be the same cast iron used for FT cams.... it won't survive with the rollers' very high and concentrated contact pressures. So that eliminates a cast-in iron gear on the cam that is compatible with the stock shaft gear.

Sounds like the softer gear, compatible with the stock gear, is an option in some cases. Some info here:
https://www.onedirt.com/tech/engine...fusion-out-of-distributor-gear-compatibility/
 
'cuz the material for a roller cam can't be the same cast iron used for FT cams.... it won't survive with the rollers' very high and concentrated contact pressures. So that eliminates a cast-in iron gear on the cam that is compatible with the stock shaft gear.

Sounds like the softer gear, compatible with the stock gear, is an option in some cases. Some info here:
Taking the Confusion Out of Distributor Gear Compatibility
I guess my point is why don't they make the roller cams out of the same material the factory roller cams are made out of and then we can just use our factory gear drives/shaft like we've been doing for 60 years with all the LA's?
 
I guess my point is why don't they make the roller cams out of the same material the factory roller cams are made out of and then we can just use our factory gear drives/shaft like we've been doing for 60 years with all the LA's?
Because of the higher pressures/lobe profile and hardened wheels. You can use cast iron core like a factory cam, but the wear will be much greater in a performance race app.
 
Because of the higher pressures/lobe profile and hardened wheels. You can use cast iron core like a factory cam, but the wear will be much greater in a performance race app.
so if I take a cam out of a magnum, send it to have it reground to like .230 @ 050 with .500 lift, I know longer can run the factory distributor gear drive?
 
Hughes engines claims their hydraulic roller camshafts are compatible with standard drive gears.
Com Cams does allow ordering of their lobe profiles on a cam core compatible with standard drive gears, but I think you need to order it that way.
I have one brand new Comp cam that I bought from Summit. Looks like cast iron but says it requires a bronze or composite drive gear. To be safe, I plan to run the melonited Crane gear.
 
Hughes engines claims their hydraulic roller camshafts are compatible with standard drive gears.
Com Cams does allow ordering of their lobe profiles on a cam core compatible with standard drive gears, but I think you need to order it that way.
I have one brand new Comp cam that I bought from Summit. Looks like cast iron but says it requires a bronze or composite drive gear. To be safe, I plan to run the melonited Crane gear.
I dont know about the small blocks, but I HAVE BEEN RUNNING ONE OF HUGHS STEEL GEARS ON MY COMP BILLET ROLLER FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS. EVEN CHANGED CAMS , NO PROBLEMS ----------DISREGARD CAPS.
 
Hughes engines claims their hydraulic roller camshafts are compatible with standard drive gears.
Com Cams does allow ordering of their lobe profiles on a cam core compatible with standard drive gears, but I think you need to order it that way.
I have one brand new Comp cam that I bought from Summit. Looks like cast iron but says it requires a bronze or composite drive gear. To be safe, I plan to run the melonited Crane gear.

I dont know about the small blocks, but I HAVE BEEN RUNNING ONE OF HUGHS STEEL GEARS ON MY COMP BILLET ROLLER FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS. EVEN CHANGED CAMS , NO PROBLEMS ----------DISREGARD CAPS.
Good Info guys. Thanks!
 
so if I take a cam out of a magnum, send it to have it reground to like .230 @ 050 with .500 lift, I know longer can run the factory distributor gear drive?
If that cam works with the stock gear, a regrind process itself would not touch the gear. But I dunno if the there is a re-hardening process done (though I would assume so) and if that would effect the gear surfaces also.
 
regrinds are not re-hardened
they are done cheap
run the same gear
and double check that melonized after bronze
I've heard bad things about that sequence
 
regrinds are not re-hardened
they are done cheap
run the same gear
and double check that melonized after bronze
I've heard bad things about that sequence
what am I double checking for??
 
I dont know about the small blocks, but I HAVE BEEN RUNNING ONE OF HUGHS STEEL GEARS ON MY COMP BILLET ROLLER FOR A COUPLE OF YEARS. EVEN CHANGED CAMS , NO PROBLEMS ----------DISREGARD CAPS.
You're a maverick, to go against specific instructions of not to do that , lol
Your wallet is braver than mine.
 
You can run the factory gear on a factory roller cam core.
so I guess my "rant" would be: Why don't all these cams be made of the same material as the factory core..??? That would save a ton of people grief and money. I'm asking because I'm not a roller cam expert.
 
You're a maverick, to go against specific instructions of not to do that , lol
Your wallet is braver than mine.
Called and talked to Dave at Hughs engines about changing cams w/ the special gear drive , he said no problem , they`ve done it numerous times . I think its called a mellonized gear , will work on any cam ! Works for me !
 
so I guess my "rant" would be: Why don't all these cams be made of the same material as the factory core..??? That would save a ton of people grief and money. I'm asking because I'm not a roller cam expert.

roller cams are usually subjected to much higher spring pressures , they have to be stronger than cast and treated cams .
 
roller cams are usually subjected to much higher spring pressures , they have to be stronger than cast and treated cams .
3rd time that type of explanation has been offered. The factory setup pressures on the cam are not nearly as high as what they can be for performance cams. Those pressures come not just from springs but from acceleration of the big mass of the roller lifters up faster and faster ramp cams at higher and higher RPM's. At some point, the inexpensive, cast factory cam material can't take the increased pressures, and the cam material fails, so the material change is mandatory.
Any reason this does not make sense, 318willrun?
 
roller cams are usually subjected to much higher spring pressures , they have to be stronger than cast and treated cams .
So, for years and years I've been misled. Flat tappet cams were the crime - subject to cam break-in failure and then keeping zinc in the oil thereafter. I've never lost a flat tappet cam by the way. But now my roller cam/bronze gear in my van is putting bronze flakes in my oil as it shears away each time I drive it. Now, there is a 90 dollar solution in the Crane melonized gear (without shaft). But, it should be placed in new when the cam is new. I have another roller cam heading my way, an Oregon grind. Is it billet? Is it a stock regrind? Do I use the Crane "90 dollar wonder", or can I use the factory gear drive? Flat tappets have been issue free for over 3 decades to me. Now I'm going roller and my troubles begin.... starting with a gear shearing unwanted substance in my oil. As Tony The Tiger would say.... GRRRRRRREAT!!!!!!!!!!!! :BangHead:
 
3rd time that type of explanation has been offered.
Any reason this does not make sense, 318willrun?
yeah, I can run a .590 lift with a 252 duration @050 flat tappet with big spring pressure on the seat and over the nose and use a regular gear that the factory put in the engine 50 years ago. Hughes claims their roller cams can use the factory gear. Oregon regrinds the factory cam and you can use the factory gear. Why not every cam manufacturer then???? I've been dealing with small block mopars for about 35 years, and I'm just finding this out??? How many poor souls out there are destroying their "new" roller cam because they don't know? How many knew to use the bronze gear and now have bronze flakes destroying their engine as the cruise around?? And all because they were scared out of ever using a flat tappet cam..... :rolleyes:
 
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You're both right! Always stuff to learn... IMHO you brought out a good point, 318willrun. One more box checked off for why FT cams are not yet going away...
 
You're both right! Always stuff to learn... IMHO you brought out a good point, 318willrun. One more box checked off for why FT cams are not yet going away...
knowledge is key, as always. I've been a flat tappet cam user for 3 decades without issue. I'm learning that rollers are great - if you know the "in-and outs". I'm going to get this info out. I don't count myself as "green behind the ears" or a "car rookie". How many others are making the switch and just as clueless. I bet a lot. I started a thread to get this info out - today!
 
Just realize that the FT profiles are more limited than the rollers... no inverse profiles can be done without rollers. That's the 'race parts vs hot rod parts' thing.... Make sure that point gets into your head and is fairly presented.
 
Just realize that the FT profiles are more limited than the rollers... no inverse profiles can be done without rollers. Make sure that point gets into your head and is fairly presented.
I'm counting on the "experienced roller guys" to help me help others in my other thread I just started -
 
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