Operation Torquey-Pig

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If I do this right, and I think I will, I already considered that some might want them!
Small block mopar engines are beautiful. I HATE that AC sitting TDC on the front of the engine. It needs to be where the alternator sits so the lines can go straight back. ....obvious solution is move the alternator.

Jeff

Bouchillon has some nice options.
 
I just assumed a hydraulic lifter was less maintenance?

Jeff

No sir. Using good equipment makes solids almost as maintenance free. Look at it this way. You're going to need a GOOD rocker arm with a roller whether solid OR hydraulic, so it won't cost any extra money to go solid and a solid roller profile will offer a good bit more in both power and torque. Using a GOOD rocker arm will mean MAYBE valve adjustments once a year. MAYBE. Maybe not. Now, if you do a lot of racing, drop that to every six months. Still no big deal.
 
No sir. Using good equipment makes solids almost as maintenance free. Look at it this way. You're going to need a GOOD rocker arm with a roller whether solid OR hydraulic, so it won't cost any extra money to go solid and a solid roller profile will offer a good bit more in both power and torque. Using a GOOD rocker arm will mean MAYBE valve adjustments once a year. MAYBE. Maybe not. Now, if you do a lot of racing, drop that to every six months. Still no big deal.
Well.....that's good to know....just had it in my head that solids were a PITA....
While I don't have unlimited money for this, I am more than ok buying the best.

Jeff
 
Well.....that's good to know....just had it in my head that solids were a PITA....
While I don't have unlimited money for this, I am more than ok buying the best.

Jeff

Were I building this, I would go with Harland Sharp or the Comp Pro Magnum rockers. They ain't cheap, but you'll get what you pay for. You also need to spend money on a good lifter. Something with pressurized oiling to the roller and an over sized roller. I think the "normal" size is .750". I would go with at least an .850 diameter. That will also cost more than "just" a roller lifter, but again, money well spent. You'll have likely 1200-1500 in the valve train alone, BUT that includes ALL of it. Camshaft and all.
 
With 3.55s and 27" tires and a 727, 60mph =3845/no slip, say maybe 4400 in second gear. Ergo there ain't much point in running a big cam, to satisfy that urge, nor a good reason to run roller lifters. With a smaller than usual cam, the spring pressure is reduced, so you can even run an HFT.
Alloy heads are nice because they will accept a lot of cylinder pressure without detonating.
IMO, that 3000stall might be a lot more than you need, but if you have it, use it. Be advised tho with 27s, 65=2870/no slip; could be 100 to 150 more, depending. So 3000 is kindof the upper limit on the TC. Someone said 3.23s might be a better choice and I agree, except that will put top of second is now just 60= about 4000 ; so now yur looking at an even smaller cam.

If you're really serious about a GVod later, then; If it was me,
Ok, if it was me;

I would attack the gearing anomaly today and sacrifice something else if I had to.
And so if it was me, I would install an A500 with a stock TC. Hyup, to do it properly, you have to open up the floor; but all those mods are covered in the aftermarket, you no longer have to pioneer it.

Now here are the benefits;
1) you can run pretty much any rear gear you want to.
2) you can bias overdrive to cruise at pretty much any realistic rpm you want to.
3) you get slightly wider gear ratio splits with a very nice workable second gear of 1.54.
4) you get a deeper low. On the street, it's all about torque. and that often means torque multiplication.

Here's how it works;
using the 1.54 second gear ratio, and 15% TC slip at the top of second; your rear gear can be about 4.10s, for 60=5400, And with the Eddies, you can then run a 5000rpm powerpeak, which is a modest cam of about [email protected]... You see how the gears dictated the cam there?
Now,about that 224 cam; I, me personally, would pick, remember this is how I would do it; I would pick a solid flat tappet cam, to reduce the advertised duration to as small as possible without pulling the lift down too far. By doing that, you can run a lower cruise rpm, without driving her into reversion. So with 27s, and with 4.10s, 65= 2290 in loc-up; BADABOOM!.
On the other end, the starter gear is now 11.23 as opposed to 8.70 with the 3.55/904 combo. That is a increase of 29%. Which means you can run 29% less torque off the crankshaft for the same take-off performance.
Your 3000TC will not work in this trans, so you can run whatever comes with the A500, be it a 2400 or whatever..... because even if you think 2400 is too low, that 11.23 starter gear is gonna catapult you into next week in about 3 milliseconds, and then the tires will light up. Hey it's a stroker; take-off with 11.23 starter and an automatic, will be killer.
I am so confident of this that I would sacrifice either
1) the Eddies to get this A500 installed. Then, instead of saving for a GVod, you can save for the Eddies. or
2) Or I might possibly, maybe, sacrifice the stroker kit, but that would hurt a bit, about 400/600 rpm stall I'm guessing.

Why can I say this?
Because, I already ran; a 1973 low-compression 318 with those same 2.74-1.54-1.00 ratios, with a 2800TC, and 4.30s; and it was a blistering combo, mostly stock, just a 4bbl and headers.. ( I used the A998/ non loc-up)( also in a 68 Barracuda, BTW). It was really hot in first gear, not too bad in second, but after 60mph things slowed right down. Imagine if I had more compression and a real cam.
That's what I would do.
But if you decide something else, You won't hurt my feelings,lol.
And in that case, my one recomendation is this;
With alloy heads , shoot for .040 to .032 Quench, and 180minimum cranking cylinder pressure. This will run on 87E10 at 32* Power-Timing, which is all the alloy heads need. I specify pressure, because for your combo, this is the only thing that matters; not Scr, not Dcr, not Ecr; just pressure. Those other numbers are tools to get the pressure I want.

Minor details;
>With a stroker in your combo, you don't need to run max pressure for power, But it will pay big dividends in fun-factor, and in cruise fuel-economy. In fact, even at 9.5 Scr/160psi, you will have enough torque to probably spin the biggest street tires you can fit into the stock tubs, which is 295s.
>With a cam of [email protected] (net after lash if a SFT), your ICA(Intake Closing Angle) might be 60*, and yur looking at about 10.5 Scr,8.7 Dcr/ 180psi at 700ft elevation
That 10.5Scr at 795cc swept, takes about 84 cc of total chamber volume to get . Don't forget the Tight-Q. So you will need a piston with a step-D cup, that can be made to be at zero-deck.

BTW; I'm not telling you to run a 224* SFT cam! I'm saying that, that is what I would run.lol, in the A500/4.10s combo. Well, with a stroker, and for this application, and considering I'm 67,Ok, I might consider a Hydro.
Whatever you do; keep the shiney side up!
 
If you do elect to use a mechanical roller, BAM makes the MRL style lifters that drop in with minimal modification (if any!) to the block and have the oiling band positioned to prevent uncovering them.
 
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This here is "Torquey Pig"
Stock bore virgin 318 from 1968
Been sitting on this for about 5 years.....

Jeff
 
If you want to do a dual quad, I just recently saw an Offy up for sale here. (last week or three)

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Sitting next to my D453 headers, I have this...

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Milodon 13600 Gear Drive Assembly

Have you considered this ignition?
FBO Ignition Systems MOPAR Micro-Processor IGNITION SYSTEMS Digital Micro Processor Circuitry|EPROM Processor with|Built in DEAD STOP Algorithm REV Limiter|Eliminates Ballast Resistor|44KV Output on demand|Plug and Play|one simple wiring modification

Mebbe something like this for when you start up the car early sunday mornings so the neighbors get to enjoy it too! You know how cool it is to wake up to the sound of open headers...
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Oh, I forgot, you'll need some of these...

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Or...


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....ain't much point in running a big cam.....

...and there it is. He couldda left "everything else" out and just said that right there. Just remember solid roller ain't gotta be "big". Also, everyone's opinion of what "big" is, is different. Just ask my wife. ahem.
 
Well, early after Christmas I will start purchasing parts for my new engine build.

The car is my 1968 Plymouth Barracuda. It will run the current driveline with the 727 (3000rpm stall) and my 3:55 8 3/4 rear end.
Gear vendors overdrive later.

So.....my plan is to use the virgin 1968 318 I have (block and main caps only). After machining here's a short list of the plan.

Stroker kit (392)
Roller cam conversion
Edelbrock aluminum heads
Edelbrock ProFlow 4 sequential port fuel injection
Adding AC (absolute must!)

So here's the deal. ...I don't spend a lot of time in real high RPM...I don't drag race either. Most of my fun is 0 to 60. So I don't care that on a dyno it get *** horsepower at 6200 RPM...I won't see that real often.
I want a torque monster! Seat of the pants torque I'll feel all the time.

I also want to be able to turn the key and drive up the coast if I wanted.

I want to build this bulletproof. ....getting too old to be swapping engines every few years.....

So based on my list and my intended driving and longevity goals, any suggestions or criticisms are welcome.

Jeff
What has come of the engine in your car? I thought you had a stroker in it and that it was a recent one or am I confused and you only had a slant six in it??
 
What has come of the engine in your car? I thought you had a stroker in it and that it was a recent one or am I confused and you only had a slant six in it??
Currently it has a nice warmed over 318. It runs pretty good....no issues. If I find a very local mopar person that actually needs it (not to flip it and make money on it) they can have it free - when my new engine is up and running. Else I'll just store it.

Jeff
 
Wait, has anybody made sure to tell him he shouldn't use the teen? :poke:

In all seriousness, it sounds like you're going to have a nice street engine. As for camshafts, you might call a cam manufacturer and see what they recommend. Nice thing is, a "larger" cam for a 318 will be tamed by the stroker.
 
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Lol.....:rofl:

Let me assure everyone who reads this, it WILL be a 318 (stroked)
Already have it too....

Jeff
I am following your thread here. I have a roller teen block stashed just in case.
 
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