Stop in for a cup of coffee

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The point is its not the ammeter.
its when the wire insulation chafes against a ground,
or the ammeter connections get loose.

Both of which are issues with routing and wire support, and often someones messing around up there.
Anotehr failure cause mentioned by Redfish, that he had personally seen on certain years '73, '74) is from leaks at the cowl area - windshield or wiper pivots. This causes corrossion. In fact he just warned someone two days ago that joining the ammeter wires doesn't solve the problem. All it does is confirm his other test which showed the ammeter was damaged. Note the ammeter did not explode or even light up.
So I’m wondering if some of the milspec wiring heat shrink we used in my last job would be a good thing to put on the entire harness. Cut, flame and water proof
 
All this talk of wiring woes, has me thinking I need to implement a fuse on my 66. Everything inside the car, runs off fusable link. The Amplifiers in the trunk have a 100 Amp fuse. The headlight relays are fused, BUT the line from the ALT to the batt is not. I have a 100 AMP Alt. Modified wiring is used. No Amp gauge.
All this talk has me wondering about wiring upgrades. I plan to run EFI, sound system and aftermarket lights, AC and gauges. Plan was to upgrade to a 200 amp alternator and dual batteries.
 
The point is its not the ammeter.
its when the wire insulation chafes against a ground,
or the ammeter connections get loose.

Both of which are issues with routing and wire support, and often someones messing around up there.
Anotehr failure cause mentioned by Redfish, that he had personally seen on certain years '73, '74) is from leaks at the cowl area - windshield or wiper pivots. This causes corrossion. In fact he just warned someone two days ago that joining the ammeter wires doesn't solve the problem. All it does is confirm his other test which showed the ammeter was damaged. Note the ammeter did not explode or even light up.
A loose connection anywhere will always be a heat problem. While it is common to see large contactors/relays fail from worn out tips, I see just as many burned up because the terminals were never tightened good or loosened up.
The real problem with our cars is they are 50 f'n years old! They were designed to start dying after 10 and be obsolete by 20. :BangHead: LOL So,...Just getting the originally designed system back to what it was buys you another 10-20... :thumbsup:
 
Makes the industrial electrical mishaps at the rock farm look simple. :lol:
Doors blow off the contactor enclosure. :rolleyes:
Flames shoot out the vents on that 200hp crusher motor :realcrazy:
Control room fills with smoke from a variable speed controller for a DC motor :soapbox:
The dangling conduit on a conveyor that was just hit by a high speed 6" rock rolling backwards down the belt that struck it :lol:
 
And the 6 broken conduits hit by the dump truck that tried to enter the asphalt plant with it's dump bed part way up :rofl: The cleanly sheared conduits by the cutting edge on the loader bucket when trying to clean up :lol:
 
Well color me surprised. Aluminum welding rods using MAP gas. Son of a if it does not work! Wow

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Makes the industrial electrical mishaps at the rock farm look simple. :lol:
Doors blow off the contactor enclosure. :rolleyes:
Flames shoot out the vents on that 200hp crusher motor :realcrazy:
Control room fills with smoke from a variable speed controller for a DC motor :soapbox:
The dangling conduit on a conveyor that was just hit by a high speed 6" rock rolling backwards down the belt that struck it :lol:
Another big issue in industrial electric is dirt and the moisture it attracts. We blew the end wal out of a motor control center when the buss bars in the back arced through webs, dirt etc that built up in there. Not as common in cars unless you have one of those 'barn find' cars. :rolleyes: But even a little contributes to failure.
 
Chris, if your looking to buy, I will more then likely will have a 489 with 3:55 gears for sale. Sure grip. In 66 now
 
I bought a whole B body 8.75 rear end with 2.91 open 489 case for 150. Then put a $90 quick performance spool in it. Otherwise about 600 for SG 489 case around here.
 
Lower back just went out. It feels like my right leg is a inch longer. Can barely stand or walk. Into the see the Chiro in a half hour.
 
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