Stop in for a cup of coffee

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toolmanmike said:
A little too much resistance?
Click to expand...
Yes.
And I was having a hard time accepting the facts.
It was only really showing up when the loads were high, like wipers and headlights with brakes on.
Then the battery would take over. Sometimes it would happen with lesser loads - it was a little inconstant but I'll get back to that.
The bulkhead connection looked good on the engine side and it was hard to fathom the wleded splice failing.
Really the only place left to re-examine befoer taking the A/C ducts off and getting under the dash was the ring terminal at the alternator.
Its funny how the damage was all in the wire and not any in the crimp.

So the inconsistant part.
When I was at the garage the other day I checked the battery voltage and it was low.
Today I get in and first thing I do is measure it again, and its even a little lower 12.1 V.
Connect the multimeter to the negative since I'm pulling it off anyway, and the battery post.
Sure 'nuf 12 mA

Could that be the clock?
I really can't think of anything else.
when I next get a chance I'll pull the fuse for it and see what happens.

Anyway, the Barracuda is off the road before salt and brine goes on it. That was my worry.
 
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Mattax said:
Yes.
And I was having a hard time accepting the facts.
It was only really showing up when the loads were high, like wipers and headlights with brakes on.
Then the battery would take over. Sometimes it would happen with lesser loads - it was a little inconstant but I'll get back to that.
The bulkhead connection looked good on the engine side and it was hard to fathom the wleded splice failing.
Really the only place left to re-examine befoer taking the A/C ducts off and getting under the dash was the ring terminal at the alternator.
Its funny how the damage was all in the wire and not any in the crimp.

So the inconsistant part.
When I was at the garage the other day I checked the battery voltage and it was low.
Today I get in and first thing I do is measure it again, and its even a little lower 12.1 V.
Connect the multimeter to the negative since I'm pulling it off anyway, and the battery post.
Sure 'nuf 12 mA

Could that be the clock?
I really can't think of anything else.
when I next get a change I'll pull the fuse for it and see what happens.

Anyway, the Barracuda is off the road before salt and brine goes on it. That was my worry.
Click to expand...
Happy birthday
 
Mattax said:
Yes.
And I was having a hard time accepting the facts.
It was only really showing up when the loads were high, like wipers and headlights with brakes on.
Then the battery would take over. Sometimes it would happen with lesser loads - it was a little inconstant but I'll get back to that.
The bulkhead connection looked good on the engine side and it was hard to fathom the wleded splice failing.
Really the only place left to re-examine befoer taking the A/C ducts off and getting under the dash was the ring terminal at the alternator.
Its funny how the damage was all in the wire and not any in the crimp.

So the inconsistant part.
When I was at the garage the other day I checked the battery voltage and it was low.
Today I get in and first thing I do is measure it again, and its even a little lower 12.1 V.
Connect the multimeter to the negative since I'm pulling it off anyway, and the battery post.
Sure 'nuf 12 mA

Could that be the clock?
I really can't think of anything else.
when I next get a change I'll pull the fuse for it and see what happens.

Anyway, the Barracuda is off the road before salt and brine goes on it. That was my worry.
Click to expand...
I would think the clock would be the only thing that could draw. But a Reddy Kilowatt I am not.

reddy.jpg
 
I think there's 2 or three circuits to the clock. The bluish LCD's only light up when the key is in run or maybe also accessory. But if the battery is disconneded, it usually needsto be reset. So must be at least two circuits. Plus when the parking lights are on, I think the LEDs dim. Kindof complicated and the '84 wiring diagrams are lots of fun, unless your trying to get something done.

here Chris - you take the map and tell us where to go.
upload_2022-1-2_20-2-4.png


:rofl:
 
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Good Evening All! Do nothing day for me, moved heater into shop and went out there to grease the loader on the tractor, too cold, whimped out lol! I'll let the temp get above 40 first, it's almost time for tacos.
 
I can't say anything. A little rain was my reason for not going to the garage yesterday.
 
I need to improve my heat situation, need to have 2 heaters in shop (30x40, 12ft walls). Need to put one in the pumphouse until winter is over.
 
71340Duster said:
I need to improve my heat situation, need to have 2 heaters in shop (30x40, 12ft walls). Need to put one in the pumphouse until winter is over.
Click to expand...
So i came up with a very good idea, and very cost effective idea to heat a 40x80x 16 tall shop. Do you have propane or natural gas on site? If so, so get a grain bin dryer system. Cost is about 4500 bucks, for a 2.8 million BTU unit. Moves a TON of air and uses less wattage than a traditional shop unit and less propane than a traditional shop unit. The catch is.... it is VERY LOUD. Granted it mounts outside the building but it will annoy the **** out of your neighbors if you have any close.
 
Good Evening; this week I had to rebuild the carb on the 318 because it was just shitty. Leaked everywhere, accelerator pump was weak, among other things. So I rebuilt it and made it work MINT. the only thing I need to now is to mess with the idle adjustment screws as it dies when I whack it. either too rich or too lean. After I get that figured out, it is ready to terrorize my neighborhood :lol:
 
Almost forgot. My neighbor called to tell me this weeks 60 Minutes was going to be abou the Ritchie Boys.
She brought them up last week when we were talking about 703 TDs at Bastogne '44 and 601 TD (her father was in the latter).
I'm watching now on the internet.
 
shittyslant6 said:
Good Evening; this week I had to rebuild the carb on the 318 because it was just shitty. Leaked everywhere, accelerator pump was weak, among other things. So I rebuilt it and made it work MINT. the only thing I need to now is to mess with the idle adjustment screws as it dies when I whack it. either too rich or too lean. After I get that figured out, it is ready to terrorize my neighborhood :lol:
Click to expand...
oh yeah i forgot; when I fired it up, the old hardline going from the fuel filter to the carb was leaking A LOT.
So I just put in a little rubber line and changed out the fittings on the carb and it fixed it.
PXL_20211231_190953419 (1).jpg
PXL_20211231_190957618 (1).jpg
PXL_20220103_023502203.jpg

So then I was checking the plugs I noticed something green on the back of the block.
I then realized the back intake manifold bolts on the passenger side were loose and not even the correct bolt. It was just sitting in the hole. I then went out and rifled the slant six looking for a bolt that would work, and I found one. Apparently the alternator bracket bolts on the side of the block are the same as the v8 intake bolts. so another potential bad problem was fixed tonight. :thumbsup:
 
So fil is Covid negative. They’re looking at the possibility of a kidney infection and a brain bleed
 
Morning all. Sitting i an achorage waiting out bad weather. Headed to Dos Bocas next then the US after that.
 
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