Id send them to you. Pay all shipping, with all the parts to rebuild. No shop here knows Vintage Mopar suspension. Also I dont have the tools..
PM if interested
PM if interested
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Looking for someone to rebuild the Upper and lower control arms, 70 Dart with factory disc brakes
- Thread starter Brooks James
- Start date
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Scody21
Just send it
For the cost of shipping and a little bit more you can get the tools. Really a press and press dies is all that is necessary for a bushing change. Can get all the stuff at harbor cheapo…
True, dont have a jack/jackstand, lift. No room, tiny 1 car garage etc. Im Almost finished with the car and am willing to pay someone to do it. Im not Looking for a deal or a trade, i expect to pay a Good price for Good work.
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Jim Lusk
Well-Known Member
I can do that. $75/arm plus the bushings (either yours or I could pick them up) plus shipping both ways.
I think Canada is a little far... and customs would be a PITA.. or I'd do them.
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harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Dude, CA is California
No ****...
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
Yes, no ****. I guess you were kidding?
No I was serious...Yes, no ****. I guess you were kidding?
Maybe check where I am!
He was talkin about where HE is. Were HE in the states INSTEAD of Canada, he would do them.Yes, no ****. I guess you were kidding?
harrisonm
Well-Known Member
OOPSNo I was serious...
My bad! I guess I guess I did not see the "or I'd do them" at the end.
Man, if I had a dollar for each one of my slip ups, I'd have a fleet of E bodies. LOL
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
Buy a harbor freight press, auto zone ball joint/tie rod removers, 2 lb sledge.
Grease gun. Put it up in the air, loosen the upper ball joint nut..but not all the way... then smack it on the bottom, swing up and break it loose from the knuckle/spindle... then jack the lower arm up to take the force of the torsion off... then you can turn the torsion bar adjuster out to unwind the bar and remove the upper arms nut and 2 upper bolts to get it off. Then the lower arm bolt at the front strut rod and torsion clips..tie rod, brake caliper all off and hanging with wire... take and slide the arm and bar back n out. Sometimes you leave the nut on the lower arms king pin to hammer it back n out..
It's really easy. I used to use gas and burn the old rubber out then cut and chisel the shells..but pressing them out if you can is ideal
I would think you may have to buy some tools to remove the parts and send them out....IDK.
I can get them off, have tools for that, but none for rebuilding the arms
You also want the upper joints changed, correct. Seeing you're doing this I would have who ever does them sand blast and paint/power coat. I know of a power coating place in Tennessee that races Mopars. They might be able to do the whole job for you. When you work on something you want it to look like you've been there and show all your hard work. And I'll tell you I would always pay a premium for a Mopar with a good front end.
The entire front suspension is being rebuilt. I already have the parts. When I pulled it apart to Install the headers, i took a rubber boot off and there was only a very small amounts of brown crud. No sign of grease !!
Apparently the suspension was rebuilt and never greased , of course the seller told me it was rebuilt.
Thanks, Jim Lusk (post #4) is going to do them for me.
Yes $317 from Summut, stock
$550 for aftermarket lowers, different vendors, couldnt find stock lowers rebuilt
Stock ones rebuilt with labor and parts and shipping about $450
Is that price above including the stiffening plates on the lowers having Jim rebuild them?
mopowers
Well-Known Member
If you have the tools to take the control arms off, you have the tools to replace the bushings.
MOPAROFFICIAL
Oogliboogli
I hammered my 1st set of poly bushings in over a big rock in my yard.. lol.. was a kid then. The gold washer popped off I remember... I just slipped it in tapping with a hammer and ran it. A bench vice is handy and a welder.. I had to weld a pipe onto a ball joint one time to break it loose on the car and then finish off the car to clear the pipe turning. I got really good at it before I ever even had a press.
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