New roller cam...

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NoahSewal

NoahSewal

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Hey guys, i got my 440 through break in this weekend and ended up with a lifter going concave on the bottom so im guessing it's as good as a paper weight now. i did all the break in procedures as listed on comp cams website but that's what i get for going with a flat tappet. i was wondering if anyone had any good opinions on a good roller cam for my setup. ive got a 10.0:1 440 with stock ported heads and a 2500 stall converter. with 3.91 gears. the cheaper the kit the better because im only 18 and not full of money. any opinions appreciated.

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Another Comp Cams failure. Best to check the lobe. I bet it is damaged as well.
 
Fortunately I have never experienced a cam/lifter failure on a hydraulic flat tappet camshaft. I also don't use Comp cams. 65'
 
Flat tappet lifters are factory crowned, they have to be, to spin.
 
lobe placement is critical. They need to be of center to spin the lifter. Always check all lobes. Truing the lifter bores is a must on 50 year old engines. A worn bore can misplace the lifter.

Never assume they were placed correctly from the factory. The more lift you have the more critical it is to be correct.

Roller cams are more forgiving. But to much movement can break the roller. Once those pieces go through the engine you'll need more then a new cam.

Always check the lifter bores. Many Machine shops just drop the lifters in and always blame it on the Cam manufacture when they fail. Also if bushing the bores to true them install stepped bushings so they never drop. My son cuts his own. He buys blanks.
 
I have a friend in Canada that just had a new Comp Cam Hydraulic flat Tappet cam go South and trashed the engine.

Bad lifters are not just a Comp Cams issue, but an industry wide problem. I went roller on all my engines over 10-years ago.

I have a Comp Cams XR274R full roller 236/242 @ .050", .564"/ .570" lift in my 499" and love that cam.

This is in my opinion a very good street cam.

DODGE COMP Cams 23-700-9 COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts | Summit Racing

Tom
 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
I have a friend in Canada that just had a new Comp Cam Hydraulic flat Tappet cam go South and trashed the engine.

Bad lifters are not just a Comp Cams issue, but an industry wide problem. I went roller on all my engines over 10-years ago.

I have a Comp Cams XR274R full roller 236/242 @ .050", .564"/ .570" lift in my 499" and love that cam.

This is in my opinion a very good street cam.

DODGE COMP Cams 23-700-9 COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts | Summit Racing

Tom
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I had a similar Crane roller in a 440-6 and it was super docile on the street and pushed my 70 Charger to 12.30 with 3.55s and full trim 3900+ lbs
 
If you're "18 and not full of money" then you don't need to be looking a rollers.
 
I’m not full of money . Thats why I opted to go roller from now on . The cost of 2+ cams failing on a rebuild is more than the cost of a mid level roller set up .
I opted to build a 5.9 after several cam failures . shoulda done it from the getgo ! Would have saved me an easy $1000 . I used the stock lifters and got an Oregon Cams reg for around $200 . Put over 15,000 miles on that car in 1.5 years .
 
I'm probably jinxing myself, but in all the years and all the engines I've ever built in my entire life I have not had one single cam or lifter failure. I've had some Chevy rocker studs push out of the heads, bent pushrods, holes poked through Mopar rocker arms, but not one wiped lobe or failed lifter. My most recent break in was less than two years ago on my slant 6.
 
Well … a slant might have #150 lbs of spring pressure so it’s not really stressing the lobes . But the more aggressive cams that most guys are running today will require stouter springs.
 
RustyRatRod said:
If you're "18 and not full of money" then you don't need to be looking a rollers.
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id disagree and say if switching to a roller would solve my cam issue it would be a lot cheaper than risking having to rebuild the whole engine again with the flat tappet failing. any tips on keeping the flat tappet alive? yes i did all the break in procedures on comp cams website as they say to do.
 
RustyRatRod said:
I'm probably jinxing myself, but in all the years and all the engines I've ever built in my entire life I have not had one single cam or lifter failure. I've had some Chevy rocker studs push out of the heads, bent pushrods, holes poked through Mopar rocker arms, but not one wiped lobe or failed lifter. My most recent break in was less than two years ago on my slant 6.
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any tips? other than priming the engine using the break in lube, instant start with 2k-3k for 20min and zddp?
 
NoahSewal said:
id disagree and say if switching to a roller would solve my cam issue it would be a lot cheaper than risking having to rebuild the whole engine again with the flat tappet failing. any tips on keeping the flat tappet alive? yes i did all the break in procedures on comp cams website as they say to do.
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Then go for it. You're the one who said you weren't made of money. You're talking about 1000 plus dollars just in the valve train. Then you need some good rocker arms on top of that. Knock it out dude.
 
PROSTOCKTOM said:
I have a friend in Canada that just had a new Comp Cam Hydraulic flat Tappet cam go South and trashed the engine.

Bad lifters are not just a Comp Cams issue, but an industry wide problem. I went roller on all my engines over 10-years ago.

I have a Comp Cams XR274R full roller 236/242 @ .050", .564"/ .570" lift in my 499" and love that cam.

This is in my opinion a very good street cam.

DODGE COMP Cams 23-700-9 COMP Cams Xtreme Energy Camshafts | Summit Racing

Tom
Click to expand...
thanks for the reply. unfortunately my valve guides were cut for .507 lift so i would have to get them recut to run that cam. but i will look around in that family of cams to see if they have an option for me.
 
fishmens67 said:
Flat tappet lifters are factory crowned, they have to be, to spin.
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i know. and mine were the opposite after 30 minutes LOL. from what i understand the flat tappet lifters quality have decreased a lot in the last few years. makes me a bit upset because i just want to get a quality cam for my car without going roller but that seems to not be the case.
 
NoahSewal said:
any tips? other than priming the engine using the break in lube, instant start with 2k-3k for 20min and zddp?
Click to expand...
With my slant 6 I used Lucas Hot Rod and Classic 10w/30. It has 2400PPM zddp already in it. I also used zddp paste on the cam and lifters. Only tips other than that are make SURE the lifters spin. That's the most important thing. I also rip it up on break in. I vary between 2500 and 4500 for about 15-20 minutes. Splash lube is what you want and it won't happen at idle to 1500. The last guy who asked my recommendation for cam break in procedure went home an hour later and cranked it up and let it idle for 20 minutes. Some people you just cannot get through to. But the lifters spinning is the most important thing.
 
Oh and also for what it's worth, I wouldn't use a Comp lifter. I wouldn't use a hydraulic lifter. Period. So there's that.
 
mbaird said:
Well … a slant might have #150 lbs of spring pressure so it’s not really stressing the lobes . But the more aggressive cams that most guys are running today will require stouter springs.
Click to expand...
I've done a LOT more break ins than slants.
 
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