will it hurt. whats your opinion

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Funny. I've seen both "just carbon" and unworn metal on the various engines I've overhauled
 
You have to cut the ridge . Standard practice. It is right on the edge of piston travel
 
in the end, do what you want and have fun. Pull it apart, inspect, measure and appreciate the slide rule engineering.. Hell, years ago i cut the pushrod end off the stock slant six rocker arm off and then rewelded it back on to increase the ratio on a .460 lift cam. Enjoy. Your path is your own.
 
Killer6 said:
That's the ridge cutter I use, the only type I will use, it cannot over-cut the top of the bore. It will follow the established taper etc., but won't cut below the ridge.
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That's how mine works. It has "legs" that adjust out and support it on the deck surface.
 
SGaringer said:
I don't think it would hit the ridge if it were installed, but I have no idea how you would get the piston and rings back in the cylinder with the ridge there.
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I'm not a machinist but is it not the standard bore where the ridge is, so why would the ridge hinder the install. I would remove the ridge if noticeable, so that the curved ridge would not interfere with a new square edged ring.
 
Swinger 340 said:
I'm not a machinist but is it not the standard bore where the ridge is, so why would the ridge hinder the install. I would remove the ridge if noticeable, so that the curved ridge would not interfere with a new square edged ring.
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It is not the unworn previous bore that constitutes the problem. As the rings and bore wear, they create a very slight rounded edge where the ring stops at TDC and the rings develop a matching slightly rounded edge. Also the ring groove and rings wear letting the the top of the ring be slightly lower. Now if you do not remove the ridge the new square ring that is a thousandth or two thicker will hit the bottom of the ridge with less than beneficial consequences.
Unless you can barely feel the edge of the ridge, you better ream it.
 
Larry Hutchens said:
Way back when they used ridge reamers so that you could remove the piston without damage to same. If your pistons came out without a problem then there is probably no reason to use the reamer. However, in some cases-not all, there can be interference between the small radius at the ridge & a new top ring which could cause problems. For me I would use the reamer if you can catch your finger nail under the edge of the ridge just for safety. As for compression loss: The slant 6 is a low compression engine so my guess is that the power loss would be undetectable. If you are re-using the old pistons check for clearance at the top ring groove. Insert (don't install) the new ring in the groove & see if it will rock excessively. You are checking to see if the ring groove is tapered (wider at the outside than the inside).
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This reamer Lisle 36500 reamer came in last night and I used it this morning and I am not impressed with it at all. I used it on 2 cylinders and it doesnt seem to cut properly. I had the adjustment almost as tight as it would go on the top and there is still a small ridge left. It just doesnt seem like it is cutting as much as it should.
 
Would you believe it took me a year a to get a total of $200 for two 225 long blocks std. bore with NO ridge!! here in Texas!! Well actually one motor was less intake-exh. manifolds/
 
trudysduster said:
This reamer Lisle 36500 reamer came in last night and I used it this morning and I am not impressed with it at all. I used it on 2 cylinders and it doesnt seem to cut properly. I had the adjustment almost as tight as it would go on the top and there is still a small ridge left. It just doesnt seem like it is cutting as much as it should.
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It can take several passes if the ridge is pronounced.
 
trudysduster said:
This reamer Lisle 36500 reamer came in last night and I used it this morning and I am not impressed with it at all. I used it on 2 cylinders and it doesnt seem to cut properly. I had the adjustment almost as tight as it would go on the top and there is still a small ridge left. It just doesnt seem like it is cutting as much as it should.
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I have never seen that one before. I do not see where the cutter is located.
The one I have that works flawlessly is;
OEMTools pt # 77030. Found on a Canadian Tire post available for loan out. There must be sources in the US.
I just looked it up and seems available through Amazon.
 
trudysduster said:
This reamer Lisle 36500 reamer came in last night and I used it this morning and I am not impressed with it at all. I used it on 2 cylinders and it doesnt seem to cut properly. I had the adjustment almost as tight as it would go on the top and there is still a small ridge left. It just doesnt seem like it is cutting as much as it should.
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Engine Cylinder Ridge Reamer [215898] - $60.85 : Toolsource.com, Your Professional Tool Authority!

this is the same basic tool I have, the old Snap-on # was WR-30 I believe. It locks in the bore, then You adjust the bit holder plate out until the bulkhead is almost up against the untouched bore above the ridge, then You release the spring-loaded cutter & turn the whole upper table. As it does, it feeds the cutter up from under the ridge, & cuts it from the bottom edge up, like a mini manual lathe.
 
RustyRatRod said:
It can take several passes if the ridge is pronounced.
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well it must be pronounced. By the time I got done with4 cylinders there were some words I shouldnt have pronounced. I think maybe I got a used tool because it came in a box and wasnt in a package like a Lile tool should be. maybe I got screwed.
 
Dale Davies said:
I have never seen that one before. I do not see where the cutter is located.
The one I have that works flawlessly is;
OEMTools pt # 77030. Found on a Canadian Tire post available for loan out. There must be sources in the US.
I just looked it up and seems available through Amazon.
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looks like it is only in Canada. didnt see it on Amazon. will check it again
 

barbee6043 said:
All that slant stuff has been posted for sale on FABO many times!!! Plus....All the Tx. Mopar sites, many other FB Mopar sites plus Marketplace..
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well right now as it stands, I have 6 slant 6 engines at my place. I do not need one now. awhile back I did. but thanks
 
trudysduster said:
well it must be pronounced. By the time I got done with4 cylinders there were some words I shouldnt have pronounced. I think maybe I got a used tool because it came in a box and wasnt in a package like a Lile tool should be. maybe I got screwed.
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That's exactly why I always hawk for OLD USA made used in good shape or OLD NOS made in USA tools. The one I sent the link to in private messages was a good used made in USA Lisle tool. Everything Lisle makes now is made over seas.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's exactly why I always hawk for OLD USA made used in good shape or OLD NOS made in USA tools. The one I sent the link to in private messages was a good used made in USA Lisle tool. Everything Lisle makes now is made over seas.
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yeah, but the one you sent link to is gone.I was going back for it. I have ordered a new cutting blade for this one. I think I got sent a used one.
 
RustyRatRod said:
That's exactly why I always hawk for OLD USA made used in good shape or OLD NOS made in USA tools. The one I sent the link to in private messages was a good used made in USA Lisle tool. Everything Lisle makes now is made over seas.
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do you have any power steering pump brackets and pump for a 66 slant 6.
 
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