He lost compression through some other error, not from a ridge reamer. Once you use one, or see it used you'll understand.
will it hurt. whats your opinion
- Thread starter trudysduster
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well that is what I am thinking and I guess I am going to buy one and take it out. That would solve all the problems here but the only question is which ridge reamer would be a good one to use. I have never had the pleasure of using one and the one I saw on the utube video I think it was an OEM 27030 isnt available anymore. Are they pretty much the same. Harbor Freight is close by.
If you have a cylinder ridge more than likely the cylinder is tapered, or egg shaped how would you set your ring gap? IDK, maybe use a piston and push the rings way down into the cylinder bore and take readings there. Are you going to use a hone to break the glaze from the cylinders, maybe that would be enough to remove the cylinder ridge. I would check your piston landings just make sure there're not ring grooved.
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Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
Cut the ridge using a ridge reamer. Don't need to buy one. Most auto parts stores have them in their "loaner" program.
Watch this video. This is the type ridge reamer to use.
www.bing.com
Watch this video. This is the type ridge reamer to use.
cylinder ridge reamer - Bing video
I don't like ridge reamers. It is easy to go too far. If you do use one, go light and finish hone. You don't have to get all the wear or ridge completely out.
These are the type of hone I would use. Crisco as lubricant.
[SOLD] - Lisle 15000 Cylinder Hone
This was only used on one block before I bought a hone machine. It is like new. $150 shipped to continental US Located in 62899, IL
www.forabodiesonly.com
Charrlie_S
Well-Known Member
Actually a ridge reamer should be used BEFORE removing the pistons. That way the rings will not catch on the ridge and damage the ring lands on the piston. If using the reamer I referred to and set it properly, it is hard to go too far.
Here's the one I have. It was given to me by the old man I worked in the machine shop for when I was a kid. It's from the 1940s. Yes, I still have the original box.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Yea, we get off track!
You need to check back and get us going the right way!
Is it a 170, 198 or 225 engine?
Yes use the reamer and just remove the ridge.
You need to check back and get us going the right way!
Is it a 170, 198 or 225 engine?
Yes use the reamer and just remove the ridge.
It is a 225. I just bought a Lisle 36500 reamer and it will be here tomorrow. Thanks
I don't know how those are made, but the one I have will work with the pistons still in the block, or not, it doesn't matter. That round pad on the bottom of it is designed to contact the piston and that pushes the blades out against the cylinder. It works without the piston in the bore as well.
we will see. How bad is cam bushings to install.
I'm sure it will work fine. I have a how to on cam bearings in the how to section. As long as you have the proper tool, there's really nothing to it.
will check it out.
Hyper_pak
Old School Chrysler Fan
Ok, the 225 is a lot lower piston deck height.
Your reamer should do the job.
I use an old ring hone with good results.
Just break the glaze and leave a good crosshatch pattern and you should be good to go.
Your reamer should do the job.
I use an old ring hone with good results.
Just break the glaze and leave a good crosshatch pattern and you should be good to go.
Not bad IF you have the right tool (I do)
Can you provide the gang with some info? Likely some measuring tools are not at your disposal. Try this. Is engine apart? Used ring. put it above ware area, measure end gap with feeler gauge. Same used ring, put in wore are of cylinder, measure end gap, using feeler gauge. report back. If the difference is EXTREME, we may have suggestions. Maybe proceeding to pic #1 could be OK for your budget.
I just bought a Lisle 18000.
I bought a lisle 36500 reamer. I dont have a budget. I do what is necessary. just dont want to bore the cylinder. I plan on reaming it. cut the ridge. thanks
That's the ridge cutter I use, the only type I will use, it cannot over-cut the top of the bore. It will follow the established taper etc., but won't cut below the ridge.
Larry Hutchens
Active Member
AJ/FormS
68 Formua-S fastback clone 367/A833/GVod/3.55s
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I just gotta say this;
the top inch or so of bore is where the power is made.
If you have a lo-compression design, this is more important than ever.
Every .001inch of change in bore-size, is a ring-gap change of .003 and change.
If your cylinders have ridges, your rings are guaranteed to be sliding back and forth in the ringlands, wearing them out, and cylinder pressure is guaranteed to end up in the pan.
and
when the piston goes down on the intake stroke, some of those oil-laden CC gasses can easily find their way into the combustion chambers, if not up past the rings, then in thru the PCV. Those gasses can lead to carbon build-up, to detonation, to a loss of power, and specifically, to a sluggish throttle.
The slanty is not known for it's fantastic cylinder pressure, so giving it away, is only gonna cost you engine-efficiency, and subsequent high cost of fuel usage, hitting you in the wallet at every fill-up.
What you spend in pistons and boring, can be recovered , possibly even in the First year of operation, depending on your usage of the car; certainly in the second.
And, with the rings no longer wearing out the lands, your engine is gonna last a lot longer.
And with so much less chamber problems, your oil is gonna stay cleaner for longer, easing the wear on the bearings, etc.
IMO, not boring your engine, when there is a clear indication of a ridge, is um, foolhardy. And once the choice is made to replace them, you are not stuck with factory replacements.
FYI, In 50 years of reconditioning/rebuilding/hot-rodding my stuff, I have twice built 9.5 Scr 225s, and I remember those lil rockets fondly. Bolt a 2800 on the back, and go have a blast.
Dale Davies
Well-Known Member
First question, how much ridge is there? As the cylinder and rings wear, they wear to match eachother slowly over time. Most of these old engines have a pretty square ridge that will catch the rings as you attempt to remove the pistons. Even with not a lot of wear, the new square rings will hit the rounded corner of the ridge and cause damage.
Being carbureted these engines did not meter the fuel.as well or atomize as well as the injected cars. New vehicles with 300k miles have minimal ridge in most cases.
You do not remove enough to affect compression.
A ridge reamer when trued to the cylinder and locked in will.not remove too much metal it is guided by the remaining cylider wall.
Larry Hutchens
Active Member
Way back when they used ridge reamers so that you could remove the piston without damage to same. If your pistons came out without a problem then there is probably no reason to use the reamer. However, in some cases-not all, there can be interference between the small radius at the ridge & a new top ring which could cause problems. For me I would use the reamer if you can catch your finger nail under the edge of the ridge just for safety. As for compression loss: The slant 6 is a low compression engine so my guess is that the power loss would be undetectable. If you are re-using the old pistons check for clearance at the top ring groove. Insert (don't install) the new ring in the groove & see if it will rock excessively. You are checking to see if the ring groove is tapered (wider at the outside than the inside).
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