1966 5.9 magnum cuda race car

[Budget mopar guy]

So I have a 66 barracuda. I’m gutting the car and putting a roll cage in it. 83/4 rear end, mini tub.

I’m doing this car on an extreme budget. Luckily I’ve been buying parts since I was 14 so I I have over 20 years worth of mopar randomness part wise. The idea was to shove the largest small block I could in the car without major modification. Here is the setup basically.


*What I already have*
-96 Early 360magnum that has oil holes for la heads.
-Refresh engine with bearings and rings
-Promaxx heads cnc ported
-66 barracuda hopefully weighing in around 2500 lbs
-proform 850
-melling lifters

WHAT I NEED
-magnum camshaft( open to suggestion on specs)
-converter for a 727 or 904 I have both trans. Haven’t decided which yet to use
-headers (open to suggestion)
-pushrods
- disc front brake setup


I want to do later model a body brakes on the front of the car but I believe the ball joint size is different so I definitely need some tech help on what parts and how to do it. Also what can I do about a proportioning valve.

At the end of the day I know the heads flow really well and I can bolt on a good intake and the 850 carb I’m curious what the potential of this setup is with the right combo. I’m trying to crack into the 10s . Not sure if that’s possible without n20.



any and all help is appreciated. If you have similar setups and are willing to share e/t and setup please do . No I don’t want to go flat tappet, and no I don’t want to stick an la motor in it.

 

[RAT ROD AL]

73 up UCAs have the larger ball joint.
Drum setup weighs less than disc.

 

[junkyardhero]

I want to do later model a body brakes on the front of the car but I believe the ball joint size is different so I definitely need some tech help on what parts and how to do it. Also what can I do about a proportioning valve.

if you want to buy new, dr. diff has the complete set for brakes all the way down to prop valve and metering blocks.

on the upper balljoint, you'll either need to swap to a later or different arm that has the bigger joint-- 73~76 a body, or a tubular aftermarket. OR you can use an adapter sleeve with your current arms and ball joints for the bigger spindle connection. dr. diff sells the adapters as well.

personally, i'd go with 73~76 arms because you can get good quality ball joints cheap and upgrade to offset bushings for better alignment specs.

on the cam, i'd call ken at oregon cams and have him custom grind me something for the application.

 

[CudaJason]

I'm doing a similar thing with my 66, only not race only, using a 5.9 and a 727 trans. I'm collecting parts for the second 66 i got with the main one, this one was a parts car but is actually a sold builder for a race car. planning the same basic engine trans setup so I'll be watching this to learn.

 

[Budget mopar guy]

if you want to buy new, dr. diff has the complete set for brakes all the way down to prop valve and metering blocks.

on the upper balljoint, you'll either need to swap to a later or different arm that has the bigger joint-- 73~76 a body, or a tubular aftermarket. OR you can use an adapter sleeve with your current arms and ball joints for the bigger spindle connection. dr. diff sells the adapters as well.

personally, i'd go with 73~76 arms because you can get good quality ball joints cheap and upgrade to offset bushings for better alignment specs.

on the cam, i'd call ken at oregon cams and have him custom grind me something for the application.

If I swap to the later model control arms will that mess up my suspension geometry or are they pretty much just a bolt in application. I’m pretty sure the later style control arms utilize a b body ball joint. I’ve heard the sell a sleeve to slip over your early a body balljoint to make it fit the spindle. Is that what you’re referencing?

 

[junkyardhero]

If I swap to the later model control arms will that mess up my suspension geometry or are they pretty much just a bolt in application. I’m pretty sure the later style control arms utilize a b body ball joint. I’ve heard the sell a sleeve to slip over your early a body balljoint to make it fit the spindle. Is that what you’re referencing?

no, the arms are a direct bolt in.

correct, the later arms utilize the larger joint that is more common and used in a variety of applications.

yes, that is the a-dapt-or i'm referring to.

 

[Plymouth 65]

You'll need to modify the trans tunnel if using a 727 in an early A body. 65

 

[Kendog 170]

I'd go 73-76 a body Disc brakes and as said upper control arm. If your patient, someone will be selling a whole set up here. Maybe swap axles to have the same bolt pattern.JMO
An ad like this. Just an example. Already gone.
[SOLD] - 73 Disc Brake Parts

 

[Budget mopar guy]

You'll need to modify the trans tunnel if using a 727 in an early A body. 65

What will need adapted? Can you go into more detail?

 

[cudamark]

You'll need to modify the trans tunnel if using a 727 in an early A body. 65

Not necessarily. Mine didn't. No room for a tranny blanket though.

 

[cudamark]

If this is a drag car and you're trying to get it down to 2500 lbs, use stock 9" drum front brakes, Manual steering gear, and a built 904. You still will probably have to lighten the car somewhere. Pizza cutters on the front along with fenderwell headers are probably the easiest way to exhaust it. Makes more room to work underneath too.

 

[Budget mopar guy]

If this is a drag car and you're trying to get it down to 2500 lbs, use stock 9" drum front brakes, Manual steering gear, and a built 904. You still will probably have to lighten the car somewhere. Pizza cutters on the front along with fenderwell headers are probably the easiest way to exhaust it. Makes more room to work underneath too.

Do you guys think a 9 inch drum would be safe on a drag car? I have 9 inch drums from and rear on my /6 dart and it stops pretty darn good but it’s not a drag car either

 

[66Valiant528]

My 11 inch drums in my Roadrunner were ok at the track but with back to back runs there was significantly more effort required and the car just didn't slow down as well. I went late A spindles and Monaco rotos. No more brake fade.

 

[Kendog 170]

Feel like reading? Lighten your load.
Weight loss.

 

[cudamark]

Do you guys think a 9 inch drum would be safe on a drag car? I have 9 inch drums from and rear on my /6 dart and it stops pretty darn good but it’s not a drag car either

Works fine on mine. Now, if you have a super gas car or faster, you might need something better, but, it only has to make one hard stop. Plenty of time between rounds for them to cool down. A lot will depend on your drag strip too, whether you have a lot of run out at the end, or, a short gate to get through. Otherwise, you have to back up if there isn't a return road at the very end.

 

[subcom]

If you can get the car to 2500lbs I’d think high 10s is feasible with moderate HP. I went low 7s in the 1/8 with a Sbe 5.9, custom grind Oregon cam, 727 with 9.5” converter and 4.30 gears. My car is a 65 and weighs around 3200lbs

 

[Muad'Dib15]

You'll need to modify the trans tunnel if using a 727 in an early A body. 65

Not in my case. I had a column shifted 3 speed and the 727 dropped right in with 0 modifications.