dusterbing the peace
FABO pyrite member
Yessir, right up the road in Denver! Anxiously awaiting the Bandimere family to finish their “due diligence” in Hudson so they can announce the track opening
Bostonian 71 demon
- Thread starter B.R.E.Demon
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B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Yep, Can't wait, my car made one weekend at Bandimere—that was two summers ago when we came to check out the area. By the time we officially moved, though, it had already closed.Yessir, right up the road in Denver! Anxiously awaiting the Bandimere family to finish their “due diligence” in Hudson so they can announce the track opening
My wife and I are actually looking at buying property once the car is finished—somewhere from northern Colorado Springs up through Larkspur and Castle Rock. We want enough land to build a private 1/4-mile test track on the property we’ll live on. It’s always been a dream of ours to have our own track, especially after visiting George Rays and some of those outlaw tracks down south and in Texas.
Funny enough, on the way home I hit what I think was my 92nd or 93rd track. My wife and I try to visit both current and old/closed tracks just to see them. This one was the old Continental Divide Raceway—there’s really nothing left but some dead patches where you can tell the road course used to be. The photo was taken looking out from where the staging lanes were, down the old quarter mile.
Next on my list.. hood from GTX JOHN
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Do you have a plain flat race weight hood?
dusterbing the peace
FABO pyrite member
Dang, just cool. PM me when you get that test track built (hopefully my car will be done by then)!!!
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
So the door I drove up to Denver for at 50$ I can't beat it its complete with only a couple light dents (easy to work) but the pictures made it look bad despite being solid and rust free. now I just have to track down an equivalent drivers door.
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Got the door stripped and also cut the middle out for weight reduction and access. The door was in excellent shape minus one spot on the leading edge. Then did a bit of bodywork (I hate bodywork!) on the trunk channel. Also had to start looking at that mess of a latch design to see how I could simplify it for weight reduction. And finally, some parts for the vertical wheelie bars came in. I planned to redo mine a bit and then get them chromed.
Have you put much thoughts into your dry sump system yet & how/ where you're going to mount that parts ?
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Yes I've figured what I'm going to do the tank will fit on the core support I'll have 2 inner fender sets made for the drivers side and the pump will be off the block the low about were factory was.
Cool thanks, my boss has just about everything from his circle track car, he's gifting it to me.
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Man, I don’t think this’ll ever get old—there’s just nothing cooler than walking into the parts store (well, dealership in this case) to grab parts for a 426 Hemi. And when they ask, 'Why do you need two sets?' and I hit ’em with, 'It’s a twin-plug Pro Stock motor,' the whole counter just goes silent.
Thats cool they knew what you meant.
At most parts places the people that work there have 0 interest in cars, it's just a job, or they like Honda's lol
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
On cloud 9 thanks to my buddy for the hookup—a mint '71 door skin for the Demon! Whether I reskin the whole thing or just use it as a donor to rebuild the lower edge, this door skin is exactly what I needed. Next stop: bead blaster for both doors and the skin! plus the finished grill
Awesome, nice grille too .
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Busy day in the shop—knocked out a bunch of loose ends, nothing major but still productive. Got some fab work lined up for tomorrow. Feeling good overall. The new passenger-side door fits way better than the old one—huge improvement."
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Well, I jinxed myself saying I hadn’t killed any hole saws—finally had to retire one today while cutting the doors. On the bright side, I went ahead and trimmed out all the inner structure nice and clean in prep for the blaster.
You can really see on the inside of the door (off the car) why I’m replacing part of the skin and being so picky about getting good doors. The old repairs were basically just lap welds—nothing great.
Also had to move the rear down bar 3/8 of an inch to get it lined up right after correcting the twist in the frame.
You can really see on the inside of the door (off the car) why I’m replacing part of the skin and being so picky about getting good doors. The old repairs were basically just lap welds—nothing great.
Also had to move the rear down bar 3/8 of an inch to get it lined up right after correcting the twist in the frame.
@B.R.E.Demon I've sent you multiple PMs with questions and haven't heard back from you.
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
I have no recent conversations try it again I only have two conversations in my inbox and not anything else
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Made the first moves on the door latches—ended up stripping off a ridiculous amount of grease built up over 50+ years. I’ve marked what I think will be the initial cuts to remove the locking mechanism, and from there, I’ll see how much weight I can shave off.
I’m still hesitant about switching to universal street rod latches. They’re probably lighter, but I want to be sure I’m using solid, long-term parts that won’t come back to bite me later.
So maybe I’m not completely crazy… but the real question is—do I dare take things this far with my doors? Lol
I’m still hesitant about switching to universal street rod latches. They’re probably lighter, but I want to be sure I’m using solid, long-term parts that won’t come back to bite me later.
So maybe I’m not completely crazy… but the real question is—do I dare take things this far with my doors? Lol
Yeah I agree with newbomb turk.
Even though you're strapped in, if something bad happened and your door failed to stay latched you could pay a hefty price. Unfortunately, there's no predicting accidents.
(Hopefully I didn't break some unspoken rule here, sorry if I did.)
B.R.E.Demon
Well-Known Member
Yes I agreed
dusterbing the peace
FABO pyrite member
I just ground off the couple of tabs that allow the latches to lock so that (deity forbid) the doors can't lock out the rescue folks who are trying to get in. They're inside the doors or else I'd send a pick. Just play with the locking action a few times and you'll see where/what to grind off...it isn't much in the way of weight savings...maybe just take a good **** before the race and it'll be about the same.
Disabling the door and steering lock mechanisms is mandatory for my Bonneville (SCTA) adventure. I am surprised NHRA doesn't have the same.
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