Guess what broke...... Centerforce Dual Friction + slicks

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Looks like I’ve got a couple different issues. The end of the axle spline has been messed up for years. Not sure what I screwed up replacing the axle bearing and seal.
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I don't have any experience with this setup. Is that the normal amount of spline engagement on the axle that spun?
 
I don't have any experience with this setup. Is that the normal amount of spline engagement on the axle that spun?
That was what would transfer power, there's more spline but it's on the locker side & when the spline fails the locker can't take all the power....

Which is why it was redesigned with one piece side gears... The full spline transfers the power
 
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Looks like I’ve got a couple different issues. The end of the axle spline has been messed up for years. Not sure what I screwed up replacing the axle bearing and seal.
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Are you saying that the end of the axle that is stripped was messed up before this incident and not a factor?
 
Are you saying that the end of the axle that is stripped was messed up before this incident and not a factor?
Whether he thinks so or not, it's a factor.... It may have had previous damage, but if so it was hanging on by a thread....
 
Are you saying that the end of the axle that is stripped was messed up before this incident and not a factor?
Correct, happened 15+ years ago and I just swapped out for the single spline side gears.

Looks like the suregrip/powerlock came apart.

I either didn’t install the seal deep enough in the housing or didn’t press the bearing on far enough.
 
Correct, happened 15+ years ago and I just swapped out for the single spline side gears.

Looks like the suregrip/powerlock came apart.

I either didn’t install the seal deep enough in the housing or didn’t press the bearing on far enough.


With that clutch it will only be a matter of time before it kills the next weakest link in your drive train.

My suggestion is buy a better clutch. Get an aluminum flywheel.

If you don’t want to spend that kind of money then get a clutch tamer.

If you don’t and you start getting bite you’ll kill parts.

Up next, third gear. Especially if you shift flat footed.
 
It's 99% street car, pulled the trans because I plan on changing the clutch. If I ever run the slicks again I'll have a clutch tamer.

Ram recommended this one.

KdHsZLPQ-88390hdx-1.jpg

88390HDX – HDX clutch set Chrysler diaphragm replacement 10.5 x 1-23 spline​

  • 10.5 x 1-23 spline
  • Diaphragm replacement
  • 8 spring hub
  • premium organic facing material
  • For applications up to 450 hp
  • Includes pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing, alignment tool
Or this one
mcl-75109_xl.jpg

McLeod StreetPro Clutch Kits 75109​

* Bolt to stock flywheels
* Handle up to 400 hp
* Organic disc facing for smooth engagement with excellent release qualities
 
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It's 99% street car, pulled the trans because I plan on changing the clutch. If I ever run the slicks again I'll have a clutch tamer.

Ram recommended this one.

KdHsZLPQ-88390hdx-1.jpg

88390HDX – HDX clutch set Chrysler diaphragm replacement 10.5 x 1-23 spline​

  • 10.5 x 1-23 spline
  • Diaphragm replacement
  • 8 spring hub
  • premium organic facing material
  • For applications up to 450 hp
  • Includes pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing, alignment tool
Or this one
mcl-75109_xl.jpg

McLeod StreetPro Clutch Kits 75109​

* Bolt to stock flywheels
* Handle up to 400 hp
* Organic disc facing for smooth engagement with excellent release qualities
Are you set on a diaphragm type PP?
 
It's 99% street car, pulled the trans because I plan on changing the clutch. If I ever run the slicks again I'll have a clutch tamer.

Ram recommended this one.

KdHsZLPQ-88390hdx-1.jpg

88390HDX – HDX clutch set Chrysler diaphragm replacement 10.5 x 1-23 spline​

  • 10.5 x 1-23 spline
  • Diaphragm replacement
  • 8 spring hub
  • premium organic facing material
  • For applications up to 450 hp
  • Includes pressure plate, clutch disc, release bearing, alignment tool
Or this one
mcl-75109_xl.jpg

McLeod StreetPro Clutch Kits 75109​

* Bolt to stock flywheels
* Handle up to 400 hp
* Organic disc facing for smooth engagement with excellent release qualities
We stock either of those clutch kids if that's what you decide to do.
 
Are you set on a diaphragm type PP?
I've never driven a vehicle with a borg beck style 3 finger but I drive the car a lot and would rather not have a harder pedal. I'm kinda kicking myself for installing the 2 step and the slicks.
 
I've never driven a vehicle with a borg beck style 3 finger but I drive the car a lot and would rather not have a harder pedal. I'm kinda kicking myself for installing the 2 step and the slicks.
You just need a little controlled slip. A clutch tamer would work great on it.
 
I've never driven a vehicle with a borg beck style 3 finger but I drive the car a lot and would rather not have a harder pedal. I'm kinda kicking myself for installing the 2 step and the slicks.
The reason I ask, I have three NOS Borg Beck and Long PP's. I am NOT trying to sell you something. Just putting it out there.

The Borg Beck Long PP has a lower pedal pressure than the standard 3 finger Borg and Beck due to its longer fingers. Pedal pressure is somewhere between a diaphragm and Borg and Beck.

I am not a fan of the feel of a diaphragm pp, feels like stepping on a banana peel, to me. I am aware I am not with the majority here. I also didn't find clean dissengagement at higher rpm.
 
You probably dont have enough spline engagement either. As in, axles may be to short
 
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