Swinger 340
Well-Known Member
cudamike13, do you remember "MAX" in Rockmart, Ga. ? He had all the answers for Mopars.Melling Racing had a shop with Awesome Bill just outside of dawsonville.
cudamike13, do you remember "MAX" in Rockmart, Ga. ? He had all the answers for Mopars.Melling Racing had a shop with Awesome Bill just outside of dawsonville.
Sorry no, I do not.cudamike13, do you remember "MAX" in Rockmart, Ga. ? He had all the answers for Mopars.
I've got Edelbrock heads, so no such luck. I definitely want to fix it once and be done because intake gaskets and silicon for the china wall don't come cheap.Hey Uncle Bob, so's you know, depending on the heads, lifters can be fished outta their bores, and carefully pulled thru the opening in the head, using a magnet.
I don't think so. I ran a burnishing ball through all of them and it wasn't loose in any of the bores.Just a thought, is it possible the lifter bore is over bore.
I have never had any luck pumping up lifters on the bench...
Good luck with the 'new lifters'...you will need it.
Of the 5 lifters I cleaned, three have collapsed and the other have leaked off a little.I'll check them again first thing the next time I go to the garage.
I hear a lot here about cleaning the lifters. Not one person mentioned, make sure you place them back on the same cam lob that they came from. A new lifter does not matter which lob to be placed on. I made a lifter tray (a top and bottom, to seal the dust or dirt out) out of a 2x4 years ago for that reason, to get them on the correct lob.Of the 5 lifters I cleaned, three have collapsed and the other have leaked off a little.
One that I didn't notice yesterday seems like it bled off - I don't really see movement but I can hear a click so it's moving whether I can see it or not.
I'm giving it all the time in the world to show me which lifters are bad. I won't have replacements until Monday at the earliest, then I get to disassemble and clean those, so if I'm lucky it's going to be Wednesday before I get back to reassembling things. TBH it could go to next weekend. To do the best I can about finding the bad ones, I'll just leave them as is until I'm ready to install the new parts.
Do them one at a time and you can't go wrong.I hear a lot here about cleaning the lifters. Not one person mentioned, make sure you place them back on the same cam lob that they came from. A new lifter does not matter which lob to be placed on. I made a lifter tray (a top and bottom, to seal the dust or dirt out) out of a 2x4 years ago for that reason, to get them on the correct lob.
The one that bleeds off is #1 and the engine is at TDC so the quickest to go flat is on a closed valve.When the engine is shut off, some of the lifters may not be on the cam base circles, but may instead be on the lift portion of the lobes. If that happens, the lifter is under constant load from the valve spring holding the valve open.

I remember back in the day we called the HI-PO lifters "anti-pop up". They are not meant to be solid, as more of a stronger cushion on the cam lobs. I'm thinking these lifters we are referring to here are of a weaker design. These may cause a "Valve float" at high RPM.Hyd lifters are not designed to be “solid”.
Page 7-
http://toplineauto.com/wp-content/uploads/2019/04/Lifter-Application-Catalog.pdf
Notice the bleed down rates are rated in “seconds”.
From the FAQ section of the Gaterman site:
Can the lifters be noisy on startup after the engine has been sitting for a while?
Yes, they definitely can. When the engine is shut off, some of the lifters may not be on the cam base circles, but may instead be on the lift portion of the lobes. If that happens, the lifter is under constant load from the valve spring holding the valve open. Eventually, the force will bleed the oil out of the lifter, resulting in clearance during the next engine re-start. The engine will clatter momentarily until the lifter refills with oil to take up the clearance. High ratio rocker arms, strong valve springs, and high lift cam lobes all contribute to this situation. In reality, the lifter wouldn't function without its ability to bleed down under load. So, there's no way to completely avoid it.
There was one on Marketplace, they wanted a pretty penny for it tooMe, I have a tobin arp tappet grinder
Definitely not cheap, but mines worth every penny I paid for it. I WILL NOT do a flat tappet of any sort unless the customer pays to reface the lifters.There was one on Marketplace, they wanted a pretty penny for it too
Stanadyne.Based on the pic in post 25, what would you say the new lifters are?
Whoever it is sells lifters to Howard's.Interesting.
Stanadyne has been out of the lifter business for at least 10 years.
I wonder where the tooling ended up.
I might give that a try, back it off a full turn, reprime, see if it leaks off again.Maybe preload them more, or less... and see what happens
If I had your money I would LOL.I'd convert it over to a solid roller cam at this point. lol
Ha! Now there's a joke if ever there was.I might give that a try, back it off a full turn, reprime, see if it leaks off again.
If I had your money I would LOL.
I would think you would need to factor in the cup depth. I would measure with the push rod in it.It couldn't have worked out better. The new set of lifters are from the same company, same part number, but they are different from the ones in the engine.
View attachment 1716409459
The new lifter is on the left. On that one the piece with the pushrod cup covers the top of the piston, on the other one it goes inside the piston. There are other differences inside. I didn't take photos of that because I got disgusted and just put it back together.
View attachment 1716409460
In that photo the new one is on the right. It's shorter so now I'm probably in need of a longer set of pushrods.
I bought the same brand of lifters trying to avoid exactly that.
Madness.