Back in the early 90's I had a 66 slant 6 that I put a set of 14 inch rallyes on. It was a little cream puff. Good little driver...Are you running Cal-Tracs on your Dart?...Nice car.
A833 18 spline 4 speed crash box.
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19DART66
Well-Known Member
Yes to the Cal-Trac, The Dart has a 10.43 compression 416 ci sm block, with pored Indybrook heads and a 256/262 .668 lift roller cam, 1 7/8 fenderwell headers into a full 3 inch x pipe exhaust back to a set factory looking tips under the rear bumper and I never uncork the exhaust. I run a Jerico trans with 3.04 first 2.0 second 1.38 third and 1to1 four, and 4.30 gears in the Dana 60. The car has a personal best of 10.634 at 125.20, 1.489 60' but that was with my son driving. My personal best is 10.648 at 124.83, 1.460 60' my son still has the bragging rights for now. I leave the line at 4800 and shift second gear at 6500 at about 40 to 50 foot out, second gear shift before the 60' clock.
dirty white boy
50 yr old Juvenal delinquent
had the 18 spline 833 slickshifted by herb mccandless in a 72 duster with a 340 x block x heads hays flywheel zoom clutch hurst B body pistol grip drove it as my daly driver for 9 years no problums but i lernt to drive on a eaton fuller 13 speed at 12 years old....
OttawaCharger
Well-Known Member
Mine came with the full Liberty treatment. Car was missing all the other bits (pedal, linkages, etc) so I went with a 727 for now and haven't had the chance to try this yet.
Yeah, I had mine done by Joe Liberty about 40 years ago .
It worked great,,,,a little noisy on the street but who cares when you are young,,,lol .
When you see the wide dog lug rings like this,,,,and also the stock gears that have had every two teeth removed,,,that is Pro shifted .
Some guys call it slick shifted,,,but that’s when every other tooth has been removed .
36 teeth originally,,,,remove 18,,,that’s Slick .
Remove 24 of them,,,that’s Pro .
I think durability became an issue when removing 24 teeth,,,,not enough material left to hold up .
That’s why they went to a wider lug,,,,,much like a big truck .
By the way,,,,beautiful gear box,,,,,,Joe always did good work !
Tommy
OttawaCharger
Well-Known Member
Thanks for that Tommy. To be honest, when I got it I had no idea what it was. Not a lot of info out there. I think what I'm seeing on this gear is faceplating?
Hope this is also of value to the original poster. Transmission is an 18 spline from a 69 RT according to the VIN (XS29L9)
Hope this is also of value to the original poster. Transmission is an 18 spline from a 69 RT according to the VIN (XS29L9)
No,,,,,that’s not face plating .
That is where the original teeth were machined off by Liberty and the new dog lug ring welded in .
Face plating has the dog lugs laid out in a radial pattern against the face of the gear,,,thus the name . I’m sorry I don’t have any pics for you of that .
Those are very good gears though,,,,should be really tough .
It has had a gear replaced on the cluster though,,,,,look at the weld bead at the end section .
Tommy
That is where the original teeth were machined off by Liberty and the new dog lug ring welded in .
Face plating has the dog lugs laid out in a radial pattern against the face of the gear,,,thus the name . I’m sorry I don’t have any pics for you of that .
Those are very good gears though,,,,should be really tough .
It has had a gear replaced on the cluster though,,,,,look at the weld bead at the end section .
Tommy
pomonamissel
Well-Known Member
got a hemi crash box in my roadster project , but i'm going with a different power train in it , as said on the street it's a pos to drive , unless your uses to double clutching through the gears . and your has the dogged over setup for making it easier to street drive . i didn't note if your gear box is a red stripe ? do you know what gears you've got , mine is a 3.09 first .
pomonamissel
Well-Known Member
and a all alum case and extension , was in a 70 hemi cuda .
Grind every other tooth off the synchros and put them back in the with dogs and springs.
It will drive like stocker and shift exactly like it’s Slick Shifted.
There is no sense in driving on the street, holding it in gear, blipping the throttle downshifts and **** like that.
Nothing wrong with that.
It looks like Liberty does good work.
I don't have any transmission parts whatsoever. This transmission came from a local drag racer who I remember back in the 70's when I was a kid who drag raced a 59 Corvette with a high winding small block in Modified Eliminator. I may have to call up Brewers or maybe Liberty to get the parts needed unless I can find some fellas on here that can hook me up with the parts.
That's another thing I've been deciding on. Whether to run a aluminum or steel flywheel. I know a lot of the old drag racers I know from back in the 70's ran a heavier steel flywheel because of the stored energy ( inertia) when they dumped the clutch. I've heard that a aluminum flywheel works pretty good on lighter weight cars and revs quick. My Demon weighs around 3,000 lbs.
19DART66
Well-Known Member
I have Mcleod lightest soft- loc clutch you can get, Don't even know if the pressure plate I have is still available.
With a slipper clutch, I have found that lighter is faster. When I leave the line at 4800, the RPM's of the engine drop 300 to 500 RPM's. By the time the car moves a car length the engine is already passed 5000, about 2 to 2 1/2 car length out it's at 6500 an I am pulling second gear. My Dart weighs just shy of 3500# with driver, so your Demon at 3000# definitely does not need a heavy steel flywheel, leave those for the dump truck.
If you have a 6 bolt crank flange, this is the complete clutch set up from McLeod part# 4956-00-05. But there is at least 3 other companies out there that make lighter and new designed clutch kits then McLeod,
The last time I sent my set up back to McLeod to have it rebuilt.( send the whole set up back to them and they rebuild it for about the cost of a replacement clutch) When I got the clutch back I sent it to Black Magic clutches to have it set up for my Dart. McLeod's technical support on these clutches, let just say a little vague.
I can't remember the names of the other clutch companies at the moment ( old man syndrome) But if Newbomb Turk jumps back in on this conversation, I am pretty sure he will know. I hope you go through with your plan to put the 4spd and slipper clutch in the Demon, once it is in and you take it down the track for its first solid hit you will never get rid of that smile every time you get in your Demon for another pass.
With a slipper clutch, I have found that lighter is faster. When I leave the line at 4800, the RPM's of the engine drop 300 to 500 RPM's. By the time the car moves a car length the engine is already passed 5000, about 2 to 2 1/2 car length out it's at 6500 an I am pulling second gear. My Dart weighs just shy of 3500# with driver, so your Demon at 3000# definitely does not need a heavy steel flywheel, leave those for the dump truck.
If you have a 6 bolt crank flange, this is the complete clutch set up from McLeod part# 4956-00-05. But there is at least 3 other companies out there that make lighter and new designed clutch kits then McLeod,
The last time I sent my set up back to McLeod to have it rebuilt.( send the whole set up back to them and they rebuild it for about the cost of a replacement clutch) When I got the clutch back I sent it to Black Magic clutches to have it set up for my Dart. McLeod's technical support on these clutches, let just say a little vague.
I can't remember the names of the other clutch companies at the moment ( old man syndrome) But if Newbomb Turk jumps back in on this conversation, I am pretty sure he will know. I hope you go through with your plan to put the 4spd and slipper clutch in the Demon, once it is in and you take it down the track for its first solid hit you will never get rid of that smile every time you get in your Demon for another pass.
My Demon weighs roughly 3,240 with me in the car and that's with a 727..I have an 8 bolt crank in my 440.. I'm going to have to index my bellhousing. It's an old Lakewood. I'm going to check with Liberty about face plating my gears. I'm wanting to build an old school stick car like I used to see back in the 70's when I was a kid going to the dragstrip but use a little modern technology to safeguard against breakage. I drive the car on the street so I may put the synchros in it..This is all a learning curve because my past 4 speeds all had stock bellhousings and transmissions. I'm looking at buying the 4 speed pedal assembly from Brewers. They make a reproduction set. I don't know anyone who has purchased one from them but Brewers has decent parts and seem knowledgeable so I'd say it would be a decent setup.. I'm not doing all of this in a hurry, I'm taking my time and getting the best advice I can get .
This looks like the application that I need from McLeod's website..I may have to get an adjustable pressure plate for street use. I could send my bellhousing to Lakewood to get them to install a window to make it easier.
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19DART66
Well-Known Member
Brewer's are excellent people to work with, you could even get the the Soft-loc through them. I have purchased quite a bit through them and always received great serves over the years. My first bellhousing I bought was a Lakewood at swap meet, that bell was a ***** to get aligned, had to drill out the alignment dowel pins and mount it up with large 7/16 flat washers drilled out to fit the dowel pins. Then bolt it on and beat it around till lined up and weld the washers in place. It was so far out that the most off set dowel would not bring it close to alignment. I ended up with a Quick Time bell before the price on them went out of site.
I drive my Dart on the street with the same set up as the track, I found that if you get to happy with the go pedal it is going to remind you it's there no matter how tight you adjust it with a very loud screech. When turning loose on the street you do it just like you will at the track, pedal to the metal and dump the clutch and start grabbing gears. Other than that you drive it like normal grocery getter stick shift car.
I drive my Dart on the street with the same set up as the track, I found that if you get to happy with the go pedal it is going to remind you it's there no matter how tight you adjust it with a very loud screech. When turning loose on the street you do it just like you will at the track, pedal to the metal and dump the clutch and start grabbing gears. Other than that you drive it like normal grocery getter stick shift car.
How did that Quick Time bellhousing line up?
19DART66
Well-Known Member
The Quick Time was a lot better, I bought the Mopar dowel pins with the three sizes .007 .014 and .021 and dialed in with the .007 dowels, if I remember correctly it was just to limit of what is usable and I dialed it to as close to zero as I could get it.
19DART66
Well-Known Member
I just remembered, with the Quick Time I had to buy an extra block plate an cut the center out of it, to space the bell out enough for the swing on the counter weighted levers on the pressure plate.
I don't know why they can't make a bellhousing that doesn't require indexing, cutting and having to be fabricated.
Some of the error is in the block. The bellhousing gets blamed for it.
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