426 Whipple Supercharged Gen3 Hemi Swap

[1meanfish]

Out with the old, in with the new! I had originally built this Hemi to go into a 1948 Plymouth Special Deluxe Business Coupe. But after finishing the build, I started thinking about how much chassis, suspension, transmission, rear end work, etc. it would need. Then I looked over at my Barracuda that was ready to go for 1100+hp and said screw it, it’s going into the Barracuda.

This car was already pumping out 850hp with an F1Procharger. It’s back halved, 10 pint roll cage, Dana 60, and an RMS Front suspension. So it’s ready for a little more power.

Let the fun begin…lol.

 

[Kendog 170]

 

[Robzilla]

Should be an awesome build. I'll be watching!

 

[1meanfish]

Was able to get out and get a little work done. I’ve welded and patched up a million holes in the engine bay.

Still got some smoothing out to do, but getting close to being able to spray some fresh paint.

Also, installed new low tension hood springs. No more prop rod to hold the fiberglass hood up!

Shout out to @atomicDog for the springs. They fit perfect and look great.

 

[atomicDog]

Glad you received the springs without issue and they worked as they should. Nice build!

 

[1meanfish]

Got some more work done this weekend. Painted the engine bay, ran new brake lines, installed the new power brake booster and master.

I cleaned and painted all of the front suspension parts and Kframe.

I also started working on a stand for the engine and Kframe to sit on. I plan to install from underneath this time.

 

[mopar head]

That`s gonna be a one mean fish alright

 

[TT5.9mag]

Did you dyno the new hemi? What fuel are you going to use?

 

[1meanfish]

Did you dyno the new hemi? What fuel are you going to use?

No I have not. I thought about taking to an engine dyno, but I think I’ll wait until it all back together and put it on a chassis dyno.

I’m planning on putting a flex fuel sensor. Then I can run 93 pump and E85 somewhat seamlessly.

 

[Kendog 170]

Looks a lot like mine, Bonzi Blue.

 

[1meanfish]

Looks a lot like mine, Bonzi Blue.

View attachment 1716443378

This electric blue looks good on the Abodies! Mine is the Chrysler Electric Blue Pearl. Like what was on the PT Cruisers.

 

[TT5.9mag]

No I have not. I thought about taking to an engine dyno, but I think I’ll wait until it all back together and put it on a chassis dyno.

I’m planning on putting a flex fuel sensor. Then I can run 93 pump and E85 somewhat seamlessly.

Flex fuel is a good idea. I have the motion raceworks bypass flex fuel sensor on my falcon and multiple fuel/ignition tables in the ecu and it truly does blend seamlessly. I can put any combination of e85 or gas in it and the ecu adjusts between them.

 

[1meanfish]

Flex fuel is a good idea. I have the motion raceworks bypass flex fuel sensor on my falcon and multiple fuel/ignition tables in the ecu and it truly does blend seamlessly. I can put any combination of e85 or gas in it and the ecu adjusts between them.

Awesome, glad to hear that it works well. Did you put yours on the return side or feed side?

I’m running 10an on the feed side and 8 return. I was thinking it would be better to run in the return to not have anything potentially disrupting the flow on the feed side.

 

[TT5.9mag]

Awesome, glad to hear that it works well. Did you put yours on the return side or feed side?

I’m running 10an on the feed side and 8 return. I was thinking it would be better to run in the return to not have anything potentially disrupting the flow on the feed side.

I originally had a stock gm flex fuel sensor on the return, -8 size. It wasn’t enough flow for ~620hp I am making. The motion raceworks bypass unit solved that as it only samples a small portion of the fuel and the majority goes around the sensor.

Billet E85 Flex Fuel Sensor Mount Dual Channel In Line 6, 8, 10AN Sens

 

[1meanfish]

I originally had a stock gm flex fuel sensor on the return, -8 size. It wasn’t enough flow for ~620hp I am making. The motion raceworks bypass unit solved that as it only samples a small portion of the fuel and the majority goes around the sensor.

Billet E85 Flex Fuel Sensor Mount Dual Channel In Line 6, 8, 10AN Sens

Great, thanks. Glad to hear that works as advertised. That was one of my concerns. That it would disrupt the fuel flow.

 

[1meanfish]

I made some progress on the Hemi install and thought I’d give some updates. There were a couple of hiccups that I thought I’d share that could help someone in the future.

I decided to install from underneath. I bought a cheap dolly on Amazon and fabricated it a little with 2x4” to hold the Kframe and engine.it actually worked great.

I didn’t get to install the Tanny with with the engine like I wanted to. When I went to bolt it up to the engine, I realized that the machine shop must have removed the alignment dowel pins and I didn’t notice it until I went to bolt up the tranny.

One issues had is that with the RMS Alterkation is that with the weight of the engine bolted to it, and sitting on the dolly, the shock towers flexed inward just enough that it would not skid over the frame rails. So I put a jack under the oil pan to help relieve some of the weight. Then I took an 1/8”x 2” steel strap and used it as a pry bar with some WD40 to pull the shock towers out enough to get around the frame rails. From there the weight as I lowered the car did the rest.

 

[1meanfish]

I also had to take the valve covers off to squeeze it in. It’s very tight!

 

[1meanfish]

I had already cut and welded the lip on passenger side inner fender well to the frame rails to make clearance for the alternator. I did the drivers side too just to balance it out and make more room overall.

Even with that, the alternator barely squeezed in and there is like a 1/8” of clearance. If I ever have to change the alternator, it’s going to a real PIA!

 

[1meanfish]

Next issue was when I went to bolt up the rack. It is hitting the bottom of the oil pan. Looks like I am going to have to cut the brackets off and move them down about 5/8”-3/4”.

I sent Bill at RMS and email asking if that would cause any issues. I don’t see how would, the steering linkage and everything seems to be fine but I’m waiting for an answer from him just to make sure.

 

[Ozyduster]

Hemi should fit in with the covers on i literally just dropped my car over the 6.4 a few hours ago. You need to remove the steering column to make it wasier.
I had to remove the alternator as also need to cut rail. Essentially any work will require dropping k frame lol

 

[1meanfish]

Hemi should fit in with the covers on i literally just dropped my car over the 6.4 a few hours ago. You need to remove the steering column to make it wasier.
I had to remove the alternator as also need to cut rail. Essentially any work will require dropping k frame lol

I have aftermarket valve covers too. I think they are a little taller than stock to cover the Stanke rocker stabilizers and rocker studs.

I think that made it an even tighter squeeze. I thought I might have to take out the steering column, but removing the valve covers did the trick. I was worried about the 2” TTI headers, but fit perfect. I had to put a very small dent in them to get a little clearance for the rear sump oil pan.

Yeah…. I do wish that I would have used shorter bolts on the alternator. I think with shorter bolts I would be able to remove the alternator without too much headache. But I didn’t, so now if this alternator goes out, it’ll be a bigger project…lol

 

[Scampin]

Dropping the steering rack will more than likely cause bump steer issues. Curious what Bill's thought will be.

 

[1meanfish]

Dropping the steering rack will more than likely cause bump steer issues. Curious what Bill's thought will be.

I sent him an email, he hasn't replied back. Is only needs to drop about 5/8" of an inch.

But I really don't see any other option. The rack hits the bottom of the oil pan. There is no other oil pan that is thinner, the tack is hitting the pan at its thinnest part.

I'm actually going to move the brackets today. My plan is to move it down the minimal amount needed to get me the clearance I need. I really don't think it'll make much difference with such a small move downward

 

[Scampin]

While not a rack, I just got done fighting with bumpsteer issues with my car and a hodgepodge of factory parts and you wouldn't believe the difference a 1/4" of inner tie rod height made. Personally I would wait for Bill's response or call him tomorrow. My 2 cents

 

[1meanfish]

While not a rack, I just got done fighting with bumpsteer issues with my car and a hodgepodge of factory parts and you wouldn't believe the difference a 1/4" of inner tie rod height made. Personally I would wait for Bill's response or call him tomorrow. My 2 cents

Too late… I welded the new brackets on yesterday….lol.

I really didn’t see any other option. I have a rear sump oil pan so it’s only about 2” thick at the front and the rack still wouldn’t fit. There is no thinner oil pan in the front than this one. Not sure why it wouldn’t fit.

All in all, I lowered the rack just enough to give a little bit of clearance. When I drilled the new holes I pulled the rack up as high as I could. I’d say it ended up being about 3/8”-1/2” lower than original.

Once I get the rest of the suspension back together I’ll run it through its travel and see if there are any issues. If so I’ll try to correct with some bump steer spacers or something.