I think he and Cody could port a block of wood to flow.Sorry, yes, Jim L. .......lol.
I think he and Cody could port a block of wood to flow.Sorry, yes, Jim L. .......lol.
I wouldn't doubt if they did the heat up the bowls with a torch trick, push em out and then port.I think he and Cody could port a block of wood to flow.
Not sure if cast iron would be stretchy enough to heat & push on. Never tried it as cast so different than steel.I wouldn't doubt if they did the heat up the bowls with a torch trick, push em out and then port.
I don't think I've seen any pictures of heads he ported but read plenty of threads.
Yeah it's been done with success like that.Not sure if cast iron would be stretchy enough to heat & push on. Never tried it as cast so different than steel.
You might have to heat head in furnace & have a die to push the right amount after extra localized heat in port/bowl.
I do or have done a lot of heads that we're cracked cast iron welded up. That metal moves around a lot, yeah having a pilot in the guides and Ridgid fixture would be ideal.And then magnaflux again & after porting, too.
Press Tool would have to shape bowls & keep guides aligned, too. Stops could register off of head deck surface. Could do whole head in one operation while still hot. Then cool slowly overnight.
Reasonable to do then, since no alloy heads .
Only welded it when I had to. Used to work at Ropkeys' Armor Museum. He owned 40 fully tracked vehicles when I was there.I do or have done a lot of heads that we're cracked cast iron welded up. That metal moves around a lot, yeah having a pilot in the guides and Ridgid fixture would be ideal.
I wouldn't even do it now, it would probably be easier to cut some 440 source heads up and start welding them to get serious runners and offset rockers.
I gotta do stuff like this because I can't afford B1 brodix lol
AwesomeOnly welded it when I had to. Used to work at Ropkeys' Armor Museum. He owned 40 fully tracked vehicles when I was there.
Had to weld a broken drive gear case on an M-10 Tank Destroyer(gear drive that 2 Detroit Diesels drive thru) that a rookie pried apart & had a hidden bolt.
So stripped case, ground a big ditch & bolted it together, preheated with a Rosebud, & Brazed with a 1/2" wide bead, unbolted case & welded inside case & flange. & then ground flange & bolted it back together. All while rookie kept it hot. Then wrapped in several green army blankets & tarps, and left it to cool overnight.
A several hour job, but no part was available. We didn't look.
Just a typical rear echelon repair in the field.
I remember reading that price was "up front" also.Didn't Jim L. quote something like $3500 to fully port iron heads, just before he retired? (Or was it $5000?)
He could definitely make power with old iron..... but quality aftermarket aluminum is a superior choice.