Too much intake? RPM Air Gap on a stocker 360

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Weiand Stealth Like the old LD340. View attachment 1716447485

Why Weiand reversed the port configuration, taking away the coil mount provisions. Dumb.

Good intake.

Stealth, action plus, performer 318/360, RPM or AirGap all work. If you have one of these, run it. As long as the FI plays nice.

Awesome looking truck...
 
Another item to consider is the top mounted ac compressor on a truck if the truck has it and your friend intends to keep it. The center coolant gooseneck on the rpm air gap will interfere, and accommodations will have to be made to make it work. The standard performer, a stock 4 barrel intake, or the single plane torker have it offset
 
@4eighteener THANK YOU FOR MENTIONING THAT! If the truck has AC and you’re planning on retaining it, the airgap takes a LOT of fabrication to the factory brackets to work. BTDT! Zero out of Ten, do not recommend…
 
sbm Intake shootout

Test 1:Edelbrock Performer

Test 2:Edelbrock Performer

RPM AirGap

Test 3:
Mopar/Holley Six Pack

Test 4:Edelbrock Torker II

Test 5:Holley Strip Dominator

Dyno-Testing Small-Block Intakes - Induction Extravaganza - Hardcore Tech: Dyno Blast

Horsepower
Superflow 901 Engine Dyno
Tested at Westech Performance Group
RPMTest 1Test 2Test 3Test 4Test 5
3,000234.8232.2226.9N/R221.8
3,200251.6248.1241.8241.5240.6
3,400276.8279.2272.3268.0266.2
3,600302.5311.5301.4297.8297.3
3,800319.2339.3327.0325.7323.6
4,000341.7357.7342.4342.6342.9
4,200360.7374.1356.3357.4361.0
4,400371.1387.1376.5377.2380.6
4,600384.5404.1393.4398.1400.5
4,800400.7419.4407.8418.3416.1
5,000413.1433.5420.5434.8432.3
5,200423.3445.3429.2448.2443.5
5,400433.8453.1443.2458.7453.1
5,600441.1460.6453.7468.0460.5
5,800448.2464.5461.9470.3467.8
6,000451.2472.9462.5473.3472.2
6,200449.2475.4462.7475.7473.8


Torque
Superflow 901 Engine Dyno
Tested at Westech Performance Group
RPMTest 1Test 2Test 3Test 4Test 5
3,000411.1406.4397.3N/R388.3
3,200412.9407.3396.8396.3394.9
3,400427.6431.3420.6413.9411.2
3,600441.4454.4439.7434.4433.7
3,800441.1468.9452.0450.1447.3
4,000448.7469.7449.6449.9450.2
4,200451.1467.7445.6447.0451.1
4,400443.0462.1449.4450.3454.3
4,600439.0461.4449.1454.6457.3
4,800438.5458.9446.2457.7455.3
5,000434.0455.4441.7456.7454.0
5,200427.5449.7433.5452.7447.9
5,400421.9440.7431.1446.1440.7
5,600413.7432.0425.5438.9431.9
5,800405.9420.7418.3425.9423.6
6,000395.0414.0404.9414.3413.4
6,200381.1402.7392.0403.0401.3
The Edelbrock Performer

Intake:Edelbrock No. 2176
Type:Two-plane four-barrel
Rated rpm range:Idle to 5,500
Max hp:451.2 at 6,000 rpm
Max torque:452.0 at 4,100 rpm
Average hp 3,000-6,300 rpm:375.9 hp
Average torque:426.7 lb-ft
 
air gap is the same height as a performer RPM, and cleared my 5th ave hood fine with no spacer and a dual snorkel air cleaner out of a cordoba.

it's a roller cam 360? send that cam down to Bullet Cams and have them regrind it and reuse the roller lifters!!! get some hughes #1110 springs, and I'd probably go with the HR260/340 lobe on the intake, HR268/340 on the exhaust on the stock lobe center, installed about 4 degrees advance. should make for a VERY stout motor. Bullet Cams Master List

and yeah, if you plan on keeping the AC in a early 80's up vehicle with the rotary A/C compressor, you'll have to come up with some adapters or new mounts to relocate the compressor a bit. did that on my 5th ave 20 years ago. https://www.autoblog.com/news/rr-of-the-day-unholy-cool-1986-chrysler-5th-avenue
 
@4eighteener THANK YOU FOR MENTIONING THAT! If the truck has AC and you’re planning on retaining it, the airgap takes a LOT of fabrication to the factory brackets to work. BTDT! Zero out of Ten, do not recommend…
it's not that bad if you have a welder and a mill.....or access to a laser cutter that can cut up to 7 gage steel
 
I have an eddy air gap on my '89 B250 van, stock 5.9. No issues whatsoever. I pull my car trailer with it. Plenty of low-end torque pulling the car trailer.
 
it's not that bad if you have a welder and a mill.....or access to a laser cutter that can cut up to 7 gage steel
Yes, thank you for reminding me once again! A milling machine (and probably a lathe, too...) would have been a great asset in our case. The greater issue was the first time we were setting it up with the extra spacing from the set of Edelbrock heads on that particular engine. Once we swapped it back to a 360 with stock iron heads, we grabbed what we needed from another set of brackets from another engine and it took much less custom "torch and mig work" from the first setup in that one. So yes, I'm thinking of a whole 'nother plane of hell from on the first go around. It's quite a bit better if you're not having to adjust the alternator spacing, too, as it runs on the same belts as the A/C. For the O.P., does the truck have A/C?
 
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The truck does have AC and he wishes to keep it. It currently does not work.

Ill be pouring over these responses and advising the best I can.

You guys have an extraordinary amount of information in your heads.....
 
I’ve not done it myself before, but I would be tempted to look into a junkyard 5.2/5.9 magnum serpentine drive setup with reverse rotation water pump and fan. Anyone else here have any caveats for that? It’s been so long since I’ve looked into it that I’ve long since forgotten the ind and outs involved with it. I would think the compressor mounting setup for the kegger intake may be more forgiving to different intakes than the LA V-belt arrangement. But, IIRC, the magnum intake water outlet is different to help compensate for that, too. I’m all for making accessory drive setups as bolt together as possible with minimal modifications.
 
I’m all for making accessory drive setups as bolt together as possible with minimal modifications
It might be just as simple as choosing a different intake.

Or run the stock stuff.

Since it’s more of a “build reliability” situation.

I will have to see the hurdle to jump it.

Moving forward we will put in new long block and trouble shoot as we go. I feel that a carb is a good way to go vs the tbi at this point but let’s see. EGR delete and computers might only have me on the ropes for a second, then it might make sense.

I appreciate ya’ll. I’ll try to take some pictures.
 
It might be just as simple as choosing a different intake.

Or run the stock stuff.

Since it’s more of a “build reliability” situation.

I will have to see the hurdle to jump it.

Moving forward we will put in new long block and trouble shoot as we go. I feel that a carb is a good way to go vs the tbi at this point but let’s see. EGR delete and computers might only have me on the ropes for a second, then it might make sense.

I appreciate ya’ll. I’ll try to take some pictures.
yeah, performer and a few others have the offset upper radiator hose location to use that later accessory drive. you can see the difference in the screenshot from summit. air gap is centered, performer offset to the drivers side (magnums are offset to the passenger side IIRC)...it's been 20 years since I did it, but if IIRC, on my 5th avenue, what I did to use the RPM air gap was I machined some chunks of 1/2 steel that I either bolted or welded onto the stock brackets. the machining was basically a half-lap done to keep the compressor located the same plane fore-aft on the engine for pulley alignment. I shifted the compressor over about an inch to inch and a half, up about a half inch, and rotated it like 15-20 degrees, and I believe on the rear of the compressor I had to cut one of the mounting tabs off, so it was held on with 3 bolts (2 front, 1 rear) instead of 3. for a little insurance, I ground down the ribs on the water pump a little, as the belts did ride fairly close to it from moving the compressor over (circled area on water pump screenshot) I also may have used an angled water neck like this, but I don't remember; I sold the car 13 years ago....Four Seasons 84805 Four Seasons Water Necks | Summit Racing

Image_20placeholder_20title.jpg


intake_comp.png


waterpump.png
 
I’ve not done it myself before, but I would be tempted to look into a junkyard 5.2/5.9 magnum serpentine drive setup with reverse rotation water pump and fan. Anyone else here have any caveats for that? It’s been so long since I’ve looked into it that I’ve long since forgotten the ind and outs involved with it. I would think the compressor mounting setup for the kegger intake may be more forgiving to different intakes than the LA V-belt arrangement. But, IIRC, the magnum intake water outlet is different to help compensate for that, too. I’m all for making accessory drive setups as bolt together as possible with minimal modifications.
The problem with that is you cannot run a mechanical fuel pump with the magnum serpentine setup
 
I’ve not done it myself before, but I would be tempted to look into a junkyard 5.2/5.9 magnum serpentine drive setup with reverse rotation water pump and fan. Anyone else here have any caveats for that? It’s been so long since I’ve looked into it that I’ve long since forgotten the ind and outs involved with it. I would think the compressor mounting setup for the kegger intake may be more forgiving to different intakes than the LA V-belt arrangement. But, IIRC, the magnum intake water outlet is different to help compensate for that, too. I’m all for making accessory drive setups as bolt together as possible with minimal modifications
if I remember correctly there's additional holes on the magnum heads that the bracketry for the serpentine drive to attach to. if you want that system, you might be better off putting the whole magnum motor in....or at least the heads. also, IIRC magnum motors have the radiator hose outlet offset to the passenger side, so you still couldn't use the RPM air gap without modification.
 
the absolute easy button here is to pick up a performer. it has all of the mounting provisions for AC, the water neck is in the correct spot and on a truck that's not going to see the high side of 5K often you're not giving up much power wise.

my play for the money would be to scrounge up the early 80's thru early 90's accessory bracketry so you get all factory mounting points for your sanden compressor, alt and the power steering thus making pulley alignment a breeze.
 
If we use the performer 2176 the current (v belt) accessories will bolt up.

Is this a correct statement?

I need to get more pictures for this thread. Severely lacking f’n pictures.
 
Yes, with the performer can use all your existing 360 LA brackets presently on the hydraulic roller 360 and use the Sanden compressor, too. If you wanted, you could even get a spread bore to large two barrel adapter and use the TBI and put the existing EGR valve onto the pad on it after removing the plugs.
https://www.edelbrock.com/performer...zdtLrALCgawCb0axmpZ2sVpAA3zB8Z4N8utEVBNzJZhs3
I do recommend deep gasket matching it a set of 360 gaskets for a little extra performance. Here’s a hydraulic roller LA 318 with its complete front drive setup so you can see what you’re going to be working with.

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att.zJK3SirrLU8g8T1-28Mi4xkO_wFO1CwHZNYIFTymBug.jpeg
 
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the absolute easy button here is to pick up a performer. it has all of the mounting provisions for AC, the water neck is in the correct spot and on a truck that's not going to see the high side of 5K often you're not giving up much power wise.

my play for the money would be to scrounge up the early 80's thru early 90's accessory bracketry so you get all factory mounting points for your sanden compressor, alt and the power steering thus making pulley alignment a breeze.
I completely agree, the performer is the right choice here, and below 3300 really is better than the rpm ag, but after that the rpm ag destroys it. It shows in the average numbers. But for a cruiser and the ease of bolt on accessories, the performer is where it’s at.
 
the absolute easy button here is to pick up a performer. it has all of the mounting provisions for AC, the water neck is in the correct spot and on a truck that's not going to see the high side of 5K often you're not giving up much power wise.

my play for the money would be to scrounge up the early 80's thru early 90's accessory bracketry so you get all factory mounting points for your sanden compressor, alt and the power steering thus making pulley alignment a breeze.

100% on that one. Sometimes the best choice is the one that requires the least "fuckery"
 
I ported a 2176 performer intake manifold to thr 340/360 gasket size. I see the horsepower drop from the rpm to be about 25 hp, but I hoped the porting narrowed that down a bit.
Also, buchillion? makes a kit that uses a "shorty" Sanderson compressor and related bracketry, see attached photo

Screenshot_20250828_193100_Chrome.jpg
 
If we use the performer 2176 the current (v belt) accessories will bolt up.

Is this a correct statement?

I need to get more pictures for this thread. Severely lacking f’n pictures.
Yes, that is correct. The 2176 will allow for all the stock bracketry and hookups without changes, although they never give you enough plugs for all the open bungs on the intake
 
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