64 Valiant Clutch Linkage

[RustyRatRod]

I need some help on 64 Valiant clutch linkage. I THINK some of my clutch linkage might be incorrect. It's the piece that comes from the Z bar to the clutch fork. Mine is a 64, which has an eyelet at the Z bar end and an eyelet at the clutch fork end. It even shows it incorrectly in the 64 service manual. It shows the later clutch fork with the round hole in the end where the metal ball goes into that hole. Mine has a slot in the end and the eyelet fits through that sideways with a clevis pin going down through it and a cotter pin securing it.

Now on to my issue. When I try to adjust the clutch pedal free travel, the nut pushes the sliding piece that goes to the clutch fork off of the threaded part before correct free travel is reached. It's like the clutch disc is worn out and I have no adjustment left. Which is fine, if that's what it is, but I am almost 100% certain the clutch still has a lot of life left. At no time does it ever slip or show any signs of that. Also, I don't have 20K on this clutch set.

I think one or both of those clutch linkages is too short. If one of yall has what you know is the 64 clutch linkage from the Z bar to the clutch fork (two pieces that slide together) could you measure each individual piece for me? It has to be the type that has the eyelet on each end. Here is what my clutch fork looks like so you will know. The eyelet fits into that slot on the end and the clevis through that hole.

 

[abdywgn]

Now on to my issue. When I try to adjust the clutch pedal free travel, the nut pushes the sliding piece that goes to the clutch fork off of the threaded part before correct free travel is reached. It's like the clutch disc is worn out and I have no adjustment left. Which is fine, if that's what it is, but I am almost 100% certain the clutch still has a lot of life left. At no time does it ever slip or show any signs of that. Also, I don't have 20K on this clutch set.

had a issue like that with my first Dart. I put a "shock extension" on it. I'll hafta look for a picture but it had about 2" of hex with internal threads and 3" or so of threaded stud. worked fine with a Hays S/S gold 3-finger pressure plate.

 

[RustyRatRod]

had a issue like that with my first Dart. I put a "shock extension" on it. I'll hafta look for a picture but it had about 2" of hex with internal threads and 3" or so of threaded stud. worked fine with a Hays S/S gold 3-finger pressure plate.

I'm thinking the threaded part is too short. That's the piece that attaches to the Z bar.

 

[Professor Fate]

Well, it's not in his "4 speed" wheelhouse; but I bet if anybody would know, @Dan Brewer would know. Maybe even have the parts.

 

[RustyRatRod]

Well, it's not in his "4 speed" wheelhouse; but I bet if anybody would know, @Dan Brewer would know. Maybe even have the parts.

I had not thought of that since it's a three on the tree, but that's a great point. Thank you. @Dan Brewer maybe you can help?

 

[abdywgn]

I'm thinking the threaded part is too short. That's the piece that attaches to the Z bar.

that is the part I put the extension on, the rod from the Z-bar to the clutch fork

 

[Oldmanmopar]

Last time I saw a fork like that was on a 1959 dodge slant six three on the tree. Are you sure that is the correct fork for your 64?

 

[RustyRatRod]

Last time I saw a fork like that was on a 1959 dodge slant six three on the tree. Are you sure that is the correct fork for your 64?

Yes sir. That's what this is. Slant 6 three on the tree. I am pretty sure it's all original, as the car had the original engine in it when I got it. It just needs a new clutch. I'm just having a tough time believing it because it doesn't slip not one bit.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I see Brewers had a few different threaded rods to choose from. I need to get mine off and measure it so I can see about getting one longer. That would give me a little more adjustment. I'm cheap. I wanna get all out of the clutch disc I can. lol @Dan Brewer you out there?

 

[Dan Brewer]

I see Brewers had a few different threaded rods to choose from. I need to get mine off and measure it so I can see about getting one longer. That would give me a little more adjustment. I'm cheap. I wanna get all out of the clutch disc I can. lol @Dan Brewer you out there?

I have a picture...not sure if I have any of these pieces laying around anymore or not.

 

[RustyRatRod]

I have a picture...not sure if I have any of these pieces laying around anymore or not.

View attachment 1716458463

Yes sir. That's it! "The other piece" is what I'd like to get. I need to measure mine and see if you have one maybe around 1" longer. That would do it. I'll see about gettin if off this week sometime and measuring it. Thanks. Dan.

 

[Dan Brewer]

Here is what I have. This was labeled 64 A slant 6 4-sp when I got it with some other parts.

 

[Dave999]

Oh looks like the one they used on the Australian cars
Thicker, full theard, no flat side? i wondered where they got that from...

The Australian factory used theirs with a (unique to Australia as far as i know) later style curved washer and insulator, a US washer and insulator won't fit the D shaped hole is too small and D shaped hence you have to buy the rod/eye part as well.

Anyway none of that is relevant....

is the Z bar mounted tight up on the chassis side or has it slumped inwards which extends the distance between Zbar pin to clutch fork, slightly.... implying lost lock wire clip, lock wire clip ends not in the bushing groove or broken half moon bushes on chassis side...
unless of course an early car uses a different way to mount this part.

is the eye or the pin on the z bar lower arm excessively worn.

clutch fork bent?
z Bar bent?
clutch fork retainer loose or bent?

feet on throwout carrier worn?

swapped to a clutch where the diaphragm or levers sit in a different place.




I know you can get a longer rod because i got a US one for my Australian set up, you want one with a straight eye not an offset eye.
but whether its the right diameter and thread to fit into that pinned on socket you attach to the end of your clutch fork, i don't know

i remember being taken aback somewhat at the cost of the part landed here in the UK...
fancy bolt cost me £60


Dave

 

[RustyRatRod]

Here is what I have. This was labeled 64 A slant 6 4-sp when I got it with some other parts.

View attachment 1716458484

Yes sir! That's what was on my car. Even when the clutch was new, it always adjusted so the nut was probably only 3/4" away from the end of the threaded post. I always thought that was not very much. It measures 4 1/8" from end to end. I just got the one from you Yesterday and installed it. It has a 15 degree bend on the eyelet end and actually fits better there than what it had. In fact, when I went to remove the old rod, the spring clip had already popped off because the eyelet end needed some angle to it. The part I got is actually for an E body. It's 4 7/8" end to end, so I have a little more thread for adjustment. I haven't driven it yet, but it seems to work well. Thank yall for getting here so quick.