Should it be pinned? Not too sure I have good enough equipment to do it myself.
I think its just a blemish. The one I am using for priming did not have a pin but it sure took a lot of effort to drive it off. Ill double check it.What is that mark on the collar of the gear? You sure it is NOT pinned? I've never seen one that was not, but I've only seen, maybe, 20 or 30
Melling HV pump. pretty warm 340. 350 ponies if I do my job correctly.shown: pinned & not pinned
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if you're not making big power, not pinned is okay.
frankly, i wouldn't worry about it and just send it.Melling HV pump. pretty warm 340. 350 ponies if I do my job correctly.
Melling HV pump. pretty warm 340. 350 ponies if I do my job correctly.
Not sure what this means.As long as the bottom still has ridges you're good....
the lower part that's hexed, where it engages the oil pump drive, should have crisp edges. no wear or rounding out.Not sure what this means.
Yes, it is fine and dandy. I just checked all of the engagement with the cam and distributor and it is all good. It is a new shaft.the lower part that's hexed, where it engages the oil pump drive, should have crisp edges. no wear or rounding out.
which if yours is new, should be just fine and dandy.
ship it!Yes, it is fine and dandy. I just checked all of the engagement with the cam and distributor and it is all good. It is a new shaft.
Now if I had just measured the pushrod length correctly.ship it!

Have you seen a quality unpinned unit slip?I wouldn't install an UNpinned unit in my worst enemy's engine. Just too risky for me to think about. I got other worries.
So, is the argument - since you don't know the interference fit, you must pin it?Define/determine 'quality'. As I said in post #18, if the interference fit is tight enough, you are good. But how do you determine how tight that fit is when you buy a unit that has been assembled???