1987 318 LA

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Here is another stock build Roller 318 I did for my 1976 D100.

1989 TBI 318 engine converted to 4 bbl with stock roller cam, and 302 heads.

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Reading his first post, he said he wants to make a "huge difference" from stock. I love a good stock 318, but that was his exact quote.
I would be making a little bit of difference for sure in the intake, carb, headers, exhaust system, and running a electric fan.
 
it's not any better, it's different.

i sure as **** wouldn't hem myself in on a engine build predicated around a stock sub 400 lift factory roller cam when there are countless options to go in a million different directions for the better.

don't get me wrong, i like roller cams. but people been running flat tappets since jesus was a private, so to count them out entirely is to be a fool.

That 318 roller on a 110 lsa would be a good cam with dual exhaust and a 4bbl.
 
The factory roller cam is as pathetic as the factory flat tappet 318 cam.

There are MUCH better roller cams available....and you won't need to change the lifters.

I'm gonna use this one- Lunati roller 485/485 @1.5 (517@ 1.6) 258/264 ADV 207/213@.050 112

It's maybe a tad big for a 318, at least with those small valve heads.

I have either an 87 318 roller or a 2000 5.9 If the 5.9 requires too much work, those Magnum heads will go on the roller 318.
 
You plug those exhaust port smog holes with 1/4" 20 allen screws from the hardware store, 3/8" long. Grab the 1/4" 20 tap too.


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If you go to plug those holes, don't get the bright idea to drill them deeper or larger for a larger set screw. I learned the hard way in my younger less educated years that you break thru the water jacket in the head and let water into the exhaust ports via the smog passages. Not my fondest hot-rodding memory.
 
If you go to plug those holes, don't get the bright idea to drill them deeper or larger for a larger set screw. I learned the hard way in my younger less educated years that you break thru the water jacket in the head and let water into the exhaust ports via the smog passages. Not my fondest hot-rodding memory.
Be very patient tapping those air injection ports. Use plenty of tapping fluid and blow them out several times in the process. I have snapped a tap or two over the years...
 
FWIW,

The 302 head receives a lot of press and attention due to the small combustion chamber. They flow in the high 170 cfm on the intake side stock with 1.78" intake valve (my recollection) and @.200 lift flow is trash.

That being said I read the "Kool-Aid" from the inter web and magazine articles then ported a set after installing 1.88" intake valves. (I can hear A.J. laughing) With a 218* at .050 hydraulic flat tappet cam and the Sealed Power 285ap pistons. The engine pulled 10-11hg of vacuum at idle. In the end it was a waste to modify the heads beyond their capacity as the piston selection in cast is poor, with a 1.741" compression height. A proper “budget” 318 combination needs a 1.81" compression height to be effective.

If you stay within the intended parameters of the 302 head, I feel 275 hp. is about max, but your wallet will be much heavier... and you don't have to huff all that cast iron dust.
 
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The parent material is cast iron, and your weld will lift when it cools. NFG...
no it won't. i've welded plenty of cracks in frozen blocks and holes just like those smog holes, even exhaust crossover passage in intakes. cast iron blocks,heads etc weld fine with a mig. i will say i wouldn't do anything structural like mig welding a mounting lug back on but for other things as i've said it's no problem.
neil.
 

I was just going to mig or flux core weld over them and just grind the welds down into them?

Those heads are cast iron not cast steel, good luck trying to weld them. Like trying to weld a crack in a cast iron block, you know how that works out.

Now Spring hangers on a Peterbilt Truck that are Cast Steel, you can weld on those all day long.

Wax on... Wax off.....


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