Duster Fuel gauge and Temp Gauge issues.

[dustertwster71green]

Hey guys, I just recently inherited my grandpas 71 Duster Twister. He is the original owner and it has sat in his garage for about 10-15 years and I’ve been working on it and got it drivable. New tank, fuel lines general sitting car stuff. I started to notice after replacing some fuel things was the Temp gauge and fuel gauge aren’t working. It wasn’t working before I replaced the tank/ sending unit. I replaced both and did the tests with key on and ground to the wires the basics. He did have an after market temp gauge on it and when I ground that out it pings out to the max but I try to get the original gauges to ping out and they don’t budge. Just trying to see if anyone has any ideas of issues before I just go ahead and order some new gauges and install them in the original gauge cluster, not sure if it is a fuse or anything I haven’t looked maybe might be one? Not the biggest pro on mopars definitely have learned a ton with owning this car. I’ll just throw in a photo of my car just for the fun of it if anyone is curious lol, also new to the group so if I posted this in the wrong forum I am sorry. Anyways thanks, Cayden.

 

[halifaxhops]

Sounds like the IVR (instrument Voltage Regulator) is shot sends the power to both gauges.

 

[RedFish]

Factory oil gauge suggests you have a rally panel. The gauge voltage limiter for the 3 thermal gauges is located inside that fuel gauge. At least 50 related threads here.
A aftermarket temp gauge likely has a added 12 volt power supply and not related at all.
Edit; thought I read "oil gauge" earlier. Good luck

 

[Super-Cuda]

Hey guys, I just recently inherited my grandpas 71 Duster Twister. He is the original owner and it has sat in his garage for about 10-15 years and I’ve been working on it and got it drivable. New tank, fuel lines general sitting car stuff. I started to notice after replacing some fuel things was the Temp gauge and fuel gauge aren’t working. It wasn’t working before I replaced the tank/ sending unit. I replaced both and did the tests with key on and ground to the wires the basics. He did have an after market temp gauge on it and when I ground that out it pings out to the max but I try to get the original gauges to ping out and they don’t budge. Just trying to see if anyone has any ideas of issues before I just go ahead and order some new gauges and install them in the original gauge cluster, not sure if it is a fuse or anything I haven’t looked maybe might be one? Not the biggest pro on mopars definitely have learned a ton with owning this car. I’ll just throw in a photo of my car just for the fun of it if anyone is curious lol, also new to the group so if I posted this in the wrong forum I am sorry. Anyways thanks, Cayden.

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Hey Cayden, Welcome aboard!

First, post a pic of the dash in your car.

That helps with the proper responses to your questions.

 

[Big.J.007]

Welcome

 

[go-fish]

Where are you in Cali @dustertwster71green ? There are a lot of members there.

Great question. I have the same issue so I’m watching.

 

[dustertwster71green]

Hey Cayden, Welcome aboard!

First, post a pic of the dash in your car.

That helps with the proper responses to your questions.

Didn’t really have a clear photo of the dash, but this is it with the amp gauge, temp, fuel, and then the two dummy oil and brake lights.

 

[dustertwster71green]

Where are you in Cali @dustertwster71green ? There are a lot of members there.

Great question. I have the same issue so I’m watching.

I am from Northern Cali 2 hours north from Sacramento.

 

[halifaxhops]

Standard IVR then

 

[dustertwster71green]

Where are you in Cali @dustertwster71green ? There are a lot of members there.

Great question. I have the same issue so I’m watching.

So following up pulled my cluster which is a pain on these early a body’s gotta say and I was happy to find I had a IVR on the back of the gauge not in the fuel gauge so that was nice replaced it super easy hardest park was the removal of the cluster and now waiting for tomorrow to put it back. Update yall on tomorrow

 

[go-fish]

So following up pulled my cluster which is a pain on these early a body’s gotta say and I was happy to find I had a IVR on the back of the gauge not in the fuel gauge so that was nice replaced it super easy hardest park was the removal of the cluster and now waiting for tomorrow to put it back. Update yall on tomorrow

Can you share where you got the IVR? I too am having temp and fuel gauge issues.

 

[dustertwster71green]

Can you share where you got the IVR? I too am having temp and fuel gauge issues.

I just got it off EBay there is a lot of IVRs just different prices , Cheapest place was EBay for me but Amazon, o reillys, and rock auto.

 

[RedFish]

I just got it off EBay there is a lot of IVRs just different prices , Cheapest place was EBay for me but Amazon, o reillys, and rock auto.

I designed, produced, and retailed universal solid state IVRs for 8 years before selling out to those who wanted my product to disappear from the marketplaces. No regrets though.
Real Time Engineering likely still offers a nice unit today but it won't be as cheap as the Chinesse offerings we find out there. Do we get what we pay for? I wont know until mine fails. I don't expect that to happen but if/when, I will opt for the RTE offering. Good luck

 

[dustertwster71green]

I designed, produced, and retailed universal solid state IVRs for 8 years before selling out to those who wanted my product to disappear from the marketplaces. No regrets though.
Real Time Engineering likely still offers a nice unit today but it won't be as cheap as the Chinesse offerings we find out there. Do we get what we pay for? I wont know until mine fails. I don't expect that to happen but if/when, I will opt for the RTE offering. Good luck

I’ve seen those solid state ones, I wanted to get one just couldn’t find one really. Seems like wherever you order from it’s always the same junk.

 

[Ricks70Duster340]

I designed, produced, and retailed universal solid state IVRs for 8 years before selling out to those who wanted my product to disappear from the marketplaces. No regrets though.
Real Time Engineering likely still offers a nice unit today but it won't be as cheap as the Chinesse offerings we find out there. Do we get what we pay for? I wont know until mine fails. I don't expect that to happen but if/when, I will opt for the RTE offering. Good luck

I used the RTE piece when I rebuilt my Duster's rallye cluster several years ago. The rallye cluster had the limiter in the fuel gauge so I disabled it and wired in the IVR. No regrets.

 

[dustertwster71green]

Can you share where you got the IVR? I too am having temp and fuel gauge issues.

Today is a step backwards day fixed the IVR and now my dash lights don’t work but I think it might be the fuse not getting a light on test light for the instrument fuse

 

[RedFish]

Today is a step backwards day fixed the IVR and now my dash lights don’t work but I think it might be the fuse not getting a light on test light for the instrument fuse

That fuse isn't hot until headlight switch is pulled to park lamps. Illumination bulbs won't work while panel isn't chassis grounded by its mounting screws.hope this helps

 

[dustertwster71green]

That fuse isn't hot until headlight switch is pulled to park lamps. Illumination bulbs won't work while panel isn't chassis grounded by its mounting screws.hope this helps

That does help a lot thank you. Bummed those gauges won’t work I can’t figure it out.

 

[RedFish]

That does help a lot thank you. Bummed those gauges won’t work I can’t figure it out.

Very little of the panel will work while it is dangling from its harness connectors. Adding a actual ground wire is highly recommended.
I always see everything working on the workbench before going back to the car.

 

[Super-Cuda]

Very little of the panel will work while it is dangling from its harness connectors. Adding a actual ground wire is highly recommended.
I always see everything working on the workbench before going back to the car.

Agreed!

I have done this so many times its not funny.

Get a 12volt source (a battery will do) and, as Redfish stated, troubleshoot it and verify that the lights and gauges work before putting it back in the car.

Make sure there is a ground lead going from the Battery ground directly to the cluster's metal frame.

A quick test for the gauges responding is to momentarily touch a wire from sending unit terminal on the gauge to ground. The pointer will start to deflect if the Gauge is working properly.

WARNING !! DO NOT LEAVE THE WIRE CONNECTED TO THE SENDING UNIT TERMINAL!! MOMENTARY CONTACT ONLY!!!

You will burn out the Gauge if you do this!!!

As stated by RedFish and others, this is in no way a method to check accuracy of the gauge, you will need a resistor pack with the proper values simulating the sending units to do that.

BTW, while the cluster is out, replace the old incandescent bulbs with LEDS and, clean the green diffuser tubes and, its a great time to repaint all the white reflective surfaces again. It makes a world of difference!

 

[Vburg65bcuda]

Just wanted to echo what others have said about RTE. My gas and fuel gauges on my ‘65 Barracuda stopped working so i ordered one from RTE a few months ago and it’s been great ever since.