t5 trans swap?

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first of all your buddy isnt your buddy,,,center force dual friction,,is all you would need less then 400 bucks,,,check summit or jegs,,

second you dont want your clutch to slip at allllllll it will burn the disc,, and burn the fly wheel,,,,your T 5 will live if you drive it properely,,,and dont ram rod it,,
 
fstfish66 said:
first of all your buddy isnt your buddy,,,center force dual friction,,is all you would need less then 400 bucks,,,check summit or jegs,,

second you dont want your clutch to slip at allllllll it will burn the disc,, and burn the fly wheel,,,,your T 5 will live if you drive it properely,,,and dont ram rod it,,
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actually he is my buddy he's like family lol...i actually called his parts guy to get the at cost price, so its not like he is hiding something from me...remember its canada, we have higher pricing then you guys do...and the part number i have for the df clutch and pp is a number that includes the chrysler pp with the ford disc and its listed on summit at 460, so 600 doesnt sound too bad in canadian funds considering exchange rate from summit is about 530...all that aside though, im getting the cobra clutch stuff, pp and disc, for under 300 bucks and have heard many rave about that setup as much as the centerforce stuff...in fact ive seen more 10 sec t5 mustangs run the cobra clutch than i have the df clutch...I guess clutch slippage is not what i meant to say- i meant more of i dont want such a hard hitting clutch...and what exactly do you mean by ram rod it? like powershifting or something? never heard that term before
 
i have the bell housing off of a '90s dodge truck for a 318. it has multiple holes so it can bolt up to a few different trannys. so could someone measure their bell or tranny and see what size middle hole and how far away the bolt holes are from each other and how deep the bell is? i still really wanna do the swap but money is holding me back so if this bell is the right size that will save a lot of money for the swap. thanks
 
yes i dont know how your exchange rate works up there,,,i figured if its 400 at A mail order place you still pay 400??? ram roding,, yes the T5 wont take a lot of beating on,,nice 5 speed tranny to have some limited fun,, grab some gears once in a while and have the advantage of OVER DRIVE,,
 
are the bolts included with the quicktime bell to attach the bellhousing to the block or the tranny to the bellhousing?
 
Mine came with Allen bolts and washers, where the aluminum plate bolts to the bottom of the bell housing they did not supply those bolts nuts or washers for some reason, I went to Napa and got some good grade 8 hardware for about 15 bucks.
 
does anyone know what size the bolts are that hold the t5 tranny to the bellhousing?
 
well i have the tranny and engine in the car right now...just have to finish making the mount..going to modify the stock auto mount to work with the t5 mount....after that engine is coming out again since i have to install offset dowel pins to get the bellhousing runout correct and then install the clutch and flywheel, then bolt her back up....so far so good...ill try to post up some pics when i get a chance....still have to measure engine angle, and then set pinion angle and take out my rear end to weld on the spring seats
 
yes so far everything is working well...the jeep t/o bearing is the right one for the mopar fork and for the t5 input shaft, and the pilot bearing mods were successful as well...i was going to try to use the stock t5 mount with the auto crossmember and modify, but the t5 mount is way too tall, so i ordered a C4 mount today that should be in tommoro and we'll see how that goes....
 
737jetdr said:
Mshred, I modified my auto trans mount bracket and I used a stock ford transmission mount for a mustang. they make a tall mount and a short mount. I used the tall mount i think from a 67 stang. as far as the gear for the speedo goes it depends on your tire diameter. i just bought a 3.91 sure grip for my dart so i have to change my gear. the gear calculator that i found on line tells me a need a 22 tooth gear. they only make a 21 tooth and a 23 tooth. I think I'm going to try the 21 tooth. The speedo cable i used is a little long. I actually had to wrap it in a loop under the dash to make it work. if it doesn't last i will get a custom one made .

try this website for calucations:
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/speedo_gears.asp
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Hey man i ordered my mount for a 67 mustang and there was no option between short or tall...i ended up ordering a 67 smallblock auto tranny mount so hopefully it works....i didnt see in any of the pictures how you worked out your speedo cable situation...gmachinedart1 had a hole cut into the crossmember for his and im assuming got the cable made up as well...i still have to figure out what im going to do (will probably do what he did if i cant fingure out something different)...what did you do with yours and do you have any pictures of it?
 
i did what justin (gmachinedart1) told me to do...i bought the mopar pilot bushing and a 90 mustang pilot bearing, pressed the inners out of both and then pressed the mustang inners into the chrysler outer and it worked perfect!
 
guys i really need some input on the whole speedo thing....i looked at justins pictures again on page 2 and his speedo output is friggin puny compared to the one i have...mine is much longer...and it seems that if i put a whole into the crossmember for the output to fit through it will hit the sleeve for one of the tranny mount bolts...are you guys using a different speedo adapter or something? im just using the one that came with my tranny (off the 90 mustang 5.0)...its starting to bother me now since i really dont want to have to redrill another mount bolt hole and then sleeve the crossmember and all...if worst comes to worst i aint running a speedo, which will be the 4th illegal thing on my street car (yikes!)
 
737jetdr said:
Gear fits in the tranny and the cable has just enough room to clear the trans mount without kinking the cable housing. I had to drop the tranny down a little to wiggle it into the tailshaft but it fits. The cable is actually a couple of inches longer than my stock auto speedo cable.
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oh goodness i just saw this now...so a 67 mustang with a c4 speedo cable will work with the stock t5 speedo output? you have any pictures? this is what im really hung up on right now as the output on the t5 is super close to touching the sleeve inside the crossmember that houses the tranny mount bolt...also, the hole that i cut for the shifter is a little big at around 5-3/4" width and 7-1/4" length so im just wondering what boots you guys are using with your shifters....im sorry for all the questions, just trying to get this thing together right the first time
 
mshred said:
i did what justin (gmachinedart1) told me to do...i bought the mopar pilot bushing and a 90 mustang pilot bearing, pressed the inners out of both and then pressed the mustang inners into the chrysler outer and it worked perfect!
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very kool,,,, so im assuming your usimng a roller pilot bearing now ???
 
wow this thread brings back nightmares. :)

nice work yall
 
yes I am using a roller pilot bearing now...im really needing some input from the guys who already did the swap...if you guys are reading this i need your help with the speedo situation more than anything...and daves66valiant, what kind of 5 speed are you using? one other thing i thought of the other day is if i should remove the over center spring or not....what do ya'll think?
 
they say when you use a diaphram type pressure plate to remove the over center spring,,and also if your using a hyd set up,,,,

they claim the over center spring doesnt allow the pedal to release completely,,

i ran a center force dual friction set up for more then 10 years,,only a little over 7000 miles tho,,,i never experienced any of those problems,,

i now have the same clutch disc,,with a new pressure plate,,and a diferent hyd set up,, i have removed the over center spring,,what a pain in the butt to remove,, i see no difference,,, just my experience,,
 
mshred said:
yes I am using a roller pilot bearing now...im really needing some input from the guys who already did the swap...if you guys are reading this i need your help with the speedo situation more than anything...and daves66valiant, what kind of 5 speed are you using? one other thing i thought of the other day is if i should remove the over center spring or not....what do ya'll think?
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I have the Keisler setup in my convertible. I had to do lots of cutting and a BFH to make everything work with my tti exhaust and headers. The early a-body is a bear. I'm using the hydraulic TO and slave from Keisler. I wish I had a different slave cylinder. I'm not very fond of the Keisler unit they made for the Early a-bodies.
 
dave have you seen there newer master?/ fire wall mounted ?? its a little different from the orignal,,,but im not sure why,,they did tell me i dont remember,, seen it at carlisle
 
fstfish66 said:
they say when you use a diaphram type pressure plate to remove the over center spring,,and also if your using a hyd set up,,,,

they claim the over center spring doesnt allow the pedal to release completely,,

i ran a center force dual friction set up for more then 10 years,,only a little over 7000 miles tho,,,i never experienced any of those problems,,

i now have the same clutch disc,,with a new pressure plate,,and a diferent hyd set up,, i have removed the over center spring,,what a pain in the butt to remove,, i see no difference,,, just my experience,,
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thanks for the heads up man since i am using a diaphram pp....however, i too am dreading removing the overcenter spring...we'll see whast happens

daves66valiant said:
I have the Keisler setup in my convertible. I had to do lots of cutting and a BFH to make everything work with my tti exhaust and headers. The early a-body is a bear. I'm using the hydraulic TO and slave from Keisler. I wish I had a different slave cylinder. I'm not very fond of the Keisler unit they made for the Early a-bodies.
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well i know my swap definatly isnt as hard as what you went through, but nonetheless it required quite a bit of planning, testing, fitting, etc....id say the hardest part right now of the whole thing is figuring out this speedo thing...i am really lost as to how i can make it work...guys who have done it please chime in....and dave, did you remove the overcenter spring in your setup?
 
tyler_s18 said:
i have the bell housing off of a '90s dodge truck for a 318. it has multiple holes so it can bolt up to a few different trannys. so could someone measure their bell or tranny and see what size middle hole and how far away the bolt holes are from each other and how deep the bell is? i still really wanna do the swap but money is holding me back so if this bell is the right size that will save a lot of money for the swap. thanks
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bump on this q lol. i tried to read the thread but couldnt find it. im not the best reader but what year is best to find a t5 outta musturd? and with mechanical(like cable driven) speedo so i can use my stock one? there is one here for $600 and one for $1000 looks like a 93 and 91 in order. thanks
 
mshred said:
thanks for the heads up man since i am using a diaphram pp....however, i too am dreading removing the overcenter spring...we'll see whast happens



well i know my swap definatly isnt as hard as what you went through, but nonetheless it required quite a bit of planning, testing, fitting, etc....id say the hardest part right now of the whole thing is figuring out this speedo thing...i am really lost as to how i can make it work...guys who have done it please chime in....and dave, did you remove the overcenter spring in your setup?
Click to expand...


Yep got rid of it. Nothing a cut-off wheel couldn't take care of.
 
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