t5 trans swap?

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Buschi340 said:
Thanks Fstfish, I'm back to you if I decide to use the Wilwood Master. But I need a slave too. And the hydr. line. I guess they are all not metric?

The original setup from the Dakota is not that bad. But you can't bleed and the plasic line between Master and Slave is very stiff and pretty close to the Headers. Thats why I want another system...
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how does the dakota line fasten to the slave and master ?? if it is a screw in fitting,,you can buy metric brake line ,and cut and fit it your self,,or you can use a combination of hose at one or both ends with a high pressure ends,,find a local industrial shop near you that makes high pressure lines for machinery, they can make what you need,,,
 
This is it:

SL270342small.jpg
 
cant tell from the pic if the presure line is removable or on with a fitting or not,,,
 
Finally started the dart the other day.Got the hyd clutch blead out and adjusted ,but:( Ive got a real bad vibration while revving the engine in neutral.To me it feels like there is an imbalance in the flywheel /clutch assy.The higher I rev the worse the vibration.My engine is internally balanced and the flywheel is supposed to be a zero balanced piece(no counter weight).I never had any vibrations before the swap,so its something I did or a parts issue.I guess I am pulling it apart and sending the f/w and clutch to my local clutch builder and have him ck the balance on the assy.

justin
 
gmachinedart1 said:
Finally started the dart the other day.Got the hyd clutch blead out and adjusted ,but:( Ive got a real bad vibration while revving the engine in neutral.To me it feels like there is an imbalance in the flywheel /clutch assy.The higher I rev the worse the vibration.My engine is internally balanced and the flywheel is supposed to be a zero balanced piece(no counter weight).I never had any vibrations before the swap,so its something I did or a parts issue.I guess I am pulling it apart and sending the f/w and clutch to my local clutch builder and have him ck the balance on the assy.

justin
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let us know how it goes! i hope it works out for ya...I have started to find more info on throwout bearing stuff for the swap if you go mechanical linkage, but i havent posted it up on here because i want to be sure it works before i start spreading the word that this is how you do it...im making pretty good progress on mine right now, so engine and tranny install shouldnt be too far off
 
I finally got mine running on Saturday. No vibs to speak of and the throttle response was awesome. Car moves foward and reverse . Clutch seems to work great. :cheers:That's when I noticed I had a coolant leak. Head gasket was leaking between cyl 5 & 7. Dohh!!! I put the motor together a couple of years ago in winter time and I guess maybe the block wasn't warm enough for the gaskets to seal. Anyway, it's back apart and I'm waiting for my Summit shipment on Tuesday to put it back together. I hope to get it out and at least around the block this week. I'll keep everyone informed.

Lee
 
737jetdr said:
I finally got mine running on Saturday. No vibs to speak of and the throttle response was awesome. Car moves foward and reverse . Clutch seems to work great. :cheers:That's when I noticed I had a coolant leak. Head gasket was leaking between cyl 5 & 7. Dohh!!! I put the motor together a couple of years ago in winter time and I guess maybe the block wasn't warm enough for the gaskets to seal. Anyway, it's back apart and I'm waiting for my Summit shipment on Tuesday to put it back together. I hope to get it out and at least around the block this week. I'll keep everyone informed.

Lee
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Good to hear she ran okay!:cheers: I think once we all have the swap done we should compile a parts list for the swap of everything we each used and sticky it...would be a good resource for all the others interested in the swap instead of having to dig around everywhere for info like we are (and trial and error too)
 
737jetdr said:
I finally got mine running on Saturday. No vibs to speak of and the throttle response was awesome. Car moves foward and reverse . Clutch seems to work great. :cheers:That's when I noticed I had a coolant leak. Head gasket was leaking between cyl 5 & 7. Dohh!!! I put the motor together a couple of years ago in winter time and I guess maybe the block wasn't warm enough for the gaskets to seal. Anyway, it's back apart and I'm waiting for my Summit shipment on Tuesday to put it back together. I hope to get it out and at least around the block this week. I'll keep everyone informed.

Lee
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while the head if off,,check it with a straight edge, hope its not a warppeed head,, how you bought fel pro blue perma torque head gaskets,
 
Got the Dart running again yesterday. This time no leaks. I was able to road test it through my neighborhood. Clutch worked flawless. very smooth to operate. I couldn't go too far being my car is still missing all the front sheetmetal.
 
Ok figured out the vibration problem.Apparently my 360 is not internally balanced as I had thought.The reason I thought it was,is because there is mallory metal welded to my crank ,but all along I had been running a counterbalanced B&M flex plate.Called the guy I had sold the auto stuff to and he informed me of the cutout in the fex plate.
I had my machinist balance my zero bal flywheel to a stock 360 spec.Put it together last night all is well,so far.Ran it through the gears on the lift and that is as far as I have gotten.Still need to install steering collum and button up interior and a bunch of other nick nacks.Trying to get car ready for road trip to Michigan for rendezvous with pro touring dot com guys for some road racing and autocrossing.We will see what happens.Coming down to wire.Will try and drive on Mon. and give report.Sorry no pics<every minute going towards working on it,limited time.

justin
 
I have been driving the dart for a couple days, so far so good.Clutch feels very smooth(100% kevlar disc) with comfotable pedal pressure via the hyd t/o brng setup.No burnouts yet,gonna break it in a little more.Transmission shifts perfect.I think the 323's are a little high ,probably a 373 will be the perfect setup.Still buttoning car up and trying to get it as road worthy as poss.Fitted a (crappy unlimited products )stock fiberglass hood somebody gave me that took about 5 hrs of mods(hinges ,etc.) to get it to fit.

justin
 
Glad to hear that your vibe is gone and the tranny is working good. I've got a 3.23 gear as well. My friend is running the same tranny in his fairlane and he has a 3.55 gear which i think is too tall also. I was thinking either a 3.73 or a 3.91 might be perfect. Still doing bodywork and having fiberglass fenders made for the dart so it's going to be July before it's back on the road. I'm shooting for the Mopar nats in August but may run out of time. Keep us updated Justin.

Lee
 
im coming real close to doing the swap now...gotta order my flywheel and clutch as well as the throwout bearing (97 4.0L cherokee) and pilot bearings...does anybody know if the sleeve that the throwout bearing rides on is included with these throwout bearings, or would i have to order it separatly? (im not talking about the input bearing retainer, but the actual sleeve inside the bearing that rides on the bearing retainer)...also, 737jetdr what did you use in that picture for your tranny mount? it looks like a modified auto crossmember??? what did you use for the actual mount itself? and about that c4 speedo cable, what speedo drive gear did you order with it just out of curiosity?
 
the throw out bearing come complete,,bearing and sleeve all assembled,,

why a 94 jeep ?? whats the difference?? and what fork are you using ??
 
Mshred, I modified my auto trans mount bracket and I used a stock ford transmission mount for a mustang. they make a tall mount and a short mount. I used the tall mount i think from a 67 stang. as far as the gear for the speedo goes it depends on your tire diameter. i just bought a 3.91 sure grip for my dart so i have to change my gear. the gear calculator that i found on line tells me a need a 22 tooth gear. they only make a 21 tooth and a 23 tooth. I think I'm going to try the 21 tooth. The speedo cable i used is a little long. I actually had to wrap it in a loop under the dash to make it work. if it doesn't last i will get a custom one made .

try this website for calucations:
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/speedo_gears.asp
 
737jetdr said:
Mshred, I modified my auto trans mount bracket and I used a stock ford transmission mount for a mustang. they make a tall mount and a short mount. I used the tall mount i think from a 67 stang. as far as the gear for the speedo goes it depends on your tire diameter. i just bought a 3.91 sure grip for my dart so i have to change my gear. the gear calculator that i found on line tells me a need a 22 tooth gear. they only make a 21 tooth and a 23 tooth. I think I'm going to try the 21 tooth. The speedo cable i used is a little long. I actually had to wrap it in a loop under the dash to make it work. if it doesn't last i will get a custom one made .

try this website for calucations:
http://www.tciauto.com/Products/TechInfo/speedo_gears.asp
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i forget which trany are you using >>??/? the T5 or a TKO???
 
hey guys sorry for not replying...for some reason i dont get emails on this thread anymore...i found out about the t/o bearing through a guy on moparts who did the tko swap with a direct 5.0mustang replacement tko, so the input shafts should be the same size and the throwout bearing will work with the input shaft as well as with the stock mopar fork...im getting real close now to installing the tranny...did you guys cut the crossmember without the tranny in obviously? 737jetdr, do you have pics of the crossmember cut and the reinforcements you made? im going to have to order that 67 mustang tall tranny mount (is it for an auto or manual the mount?)...im trying to think of all the question i need to ask before i get started on the swap that i havent asked yet...Did you drop the motor in with the t5 attached already, or did you just hook she up after the mods? oh and one more question for fstfish66- when installing the motor and tranny, should i put the motor in before setting up the clutch zbar and such, or should i set that stuff up first then drop the motor/ tranny in after?
 
oh, by the way what clutch and pressure plates are you guys using...i dont think i have read where you said
 
as for a clutch...all depends on your bujst and style of driving,, if your a burn out artist,,you better buy a good clutch,,in my opinion the center force dual friction clutch is the best bang for the buck,,there are much more expensive clutches out there,,,i dont have any problems,, and i have about 500 horse power on tap and 22 in wide tires,,,but i dont ram rod it either,,,

center force was getting ready to have part numbers to do that swap,,so you could get a mopar pressure plate and a ford clutch disc seperatly,,,if your running a mopar fly wheel ???

as for the clutch linkage,, instal it after the motor and tranny are in and bolted down good luck let us know
 
fstfish66 said:
as for a clutch...all depends on your bujst and style of driving,, if your a burn out artist,,you better buy a good clutch,,in my opinion the center force dual friction clutch is the best bang for the buck,,there are much more expensive clutches out there,,,i dont have any problems,, and i have about 500 horse power on tap and 22 in wide tires,,,but i dont ram rod it either,,,

center force was getting ready to have part numbers to do that swap,,so you could get a mopar pressure plate and a ford clutch disc seperatly,,,if your running a mopar fly wheel ???

as for the clutch linkage,, instal it after the motor and tranny are in and bolted down good luck let us know
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Im going to try a ford racing king cobra clutch more than likely since its cheaper and just as many mustang guys rave about those compared to the centerforce....i will install the motor then first and then do the linkage...one other question- if my flywheel is internal balance and so is my motor, can i drill out the flywheel to accept the mustang pressure plate the way 737 did and have no problems?
 
yes you wil have to make sure every thing is centered,, i would take it to a machine shop,along with the ford pressure plate,,,but by the time you pay to have it drilled out and buy the ford stuff,, you could have the centerforce stuff ,,
 
fstfish66 said:
yes you wil have to make sure every thing is centered,, i would take it to a machine shop,along with the ford pressure plate,,,but by the time you pay to have it drilled out and buy the ford stuff,, you could have the centerforce stuff ,,
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I will be able to drill it out myself as i have access to those types of tools....the centerforce stuff is wayy too much...600 bucks for the disc and pressure plate, and thats at my buddy's shop cost...it sells for around 1000 regularly...the king cobra clutch that im going with alot of guys run and they are comparable to the centerforce in performance, but i can get it straight from the dealer as a regular customer for 300 bucks disc and pressure plate...right now i need to save every penny i can, plus there is no point in overclutching my car, i want the clutch to slip just ever so slightly to keep this t5 alive...If i wont hurt the motor by drilling out the flywheel then its all good! thanks!:toothy10:
 
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