rear disc from grand cherokee on a 8 3/4

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maby you could find a different rotor? like off a mustang or something lol. it wouldn have parking brake probably if its not so deep. but you could use a brake i saw once that was on the driveshaft lol. idk where i saw it but that might work. if someone can put up some pics of the 8 3/4 set up and what it needs to make it work i will keep my eyes open. i just started working at autozone so will see lots of rotors probably. i am just really visual so would need pics
 
Yes, the rear ends on the 94-98 GCs are built by Dana, but they are C-clip axles with end flanges identical to the 8 1/4. AFAIK only the register on the axle flange is different. I am getting ready to do this swap to the 8 1/4 in my Dart, as soon as I finish ordering brake parts.


I'm really not sure how you would get these on an 8 3/4 axle.
 
I guess it would be better in the long run to call Dr. Diff and get the setup he has, heard nothing but good stuff about his rear disc conversion for the 8 3/4.
 
5.7 hemi said:
Just so I completely understand, no one has done the 8 3/4 swap---cause I dont see any pics. Seems the 8 1/4 is simple bolt on, but the 8 3/4 is more of a hassle? Does this sound correct?
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5.7 hemi said:
I guess it would be better in the long run to call Dr. Diff and get the setup he has, heard nothing but good stuff about his rear disc conversion for the 8 3/4.
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To answer your questions I don't believe there to be a true "bolt on" rear disk assembly for the 8 3/4. Not in the perspective of just bolting on and go with just a few, no hassle mods. Not in the sense I believe you're looking for from the tone of the first post quoted above.
 
Im still trying to wrap my head around the difference between the 8 1/4 & the 8 3/4 at the axle flange that allows the jeep brakes to be used on one with no difficulty and not the other.
I have a 8 3/4 to measure I could use some info on the 8 1/4.
Is it that the 8 1/4 axles stick out further than the other as the factory set them up?
If I can get the info I will try to engineer an answer for all
Andrew
 
while I don't know the difference in rearends, I am going to try to get them to work on an 8 3/4. I have already drilled out the center of caliper bracket to fit the over the bearings...and not by much 20 or 30 thou... I have access to a machine shop so will see when the time comes...I am going to give it a go in about a month from now.
 
ramenth said:
To answer your questions I don't believe there to be a true "bolt on" rear disk assembly for the 8 3/4. Not in the perspective of just bolting on and go with just a few, no hassle mods. Not in the sense I believe you're looking for from the tone of the first post quoted above.
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A friend used the rear disc set-up on his 64 and 68 Darts as shown in this link http://www.tsmmfg.com/2160.htm The kit uses 79-85 Eldorado/Seville calipers which they can provide or you provide. Apparently those calipers came with and without a parking brake.
 
On the 8.75 we bolted the backing plate on then knocked the wheel studs out of the axle (because it is small bolt pattern) we held the rotor up against the axle hub then installed the caliper.In order for the rotor to line up propperly we had to move the rotor about 3/4 of an inch away from the hub. On the 8.25 every thing lined up perfect.
I was wondering if the fact that the 8.25 uses the c clips to hold the axles in as apposed to the flanges that keep the axles in the 8.75 might be the difference.
Wish now I would have taken some pictures of the problem with the mock up.
 
65 Dartman said:
A friend used the rear disc set-up on his 64 and 68 Darts as shown in this link http://www.tsmmfg.com/2160.htm The kit uses 79-85 Eldorado/Seville calipers which they can provide or you provide. Apparently those calipers came with and without a parking brake.
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So, for 269.95 a pair you can the brackets, the bolts, the spacers and the rotors...then go to the parts store and order in a set of loaded calipers for it. Not bad, all in all, for the price. Figure about $400-$500.00 for everything, except e-brakes (maybe), and the green bearings you'll need.

Thanks for putting up the link for us. But I think the gist that some are looking for is a donor you-pull-it junkyard kind of swap, say like with the Cherokee straight-up swap to the 8 1/4. Unbolt from one car, bolt directly onto the other. Still, less than $300.00 gets you the brackets you need along with rotors isn't bad. Something you can take your time to buy, too, instead of one "big" kit everyone else is selling. Buy the brackets now. Save some more, get the calipers, save some more get the bearings, etc.

Now, here's a question I have for someone. And it's just a question as I have no idea of the feasibility of it and you can feel free to tell me that I'm wrong and how I'm wrong. But after doing some research on swapping my pop's '54 Ford over to disk up front I've found that the Lincoln Versaille is pretty sought after by the Ford guys because it's use of heavy duty parts. Including the rear and the rear disk set up. Has anyone tried those on an 8 3/4?
 
I whent to take a look at the cherokee the other day. I had the caliper off in a second. How do you remove the axle's to get the caliper braket off? do you have to pull the diff cover off?

Phil
 
mrtires24 said:
I whent to take a look at the cherokee the other day. I had the caliper off in a second. How do you remove the axle's to get the caliper braket off? do you have to pull the diff cover off?

Phil
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yup. C-clip axles. Pull diff cover off. Pull bolt for spider pin. Slide out spider pin. Push in on axles (might have to tap with a hammer), take out C-clips, slide out axles.
 
OK,
how about in stead of drilling the fifth hole, you cut the bottom of the bracket out and mount it behind the flange which should decrease the offset by 3/8", leaving a 3/8"offset for the axle. If that works, a 3/8" spacer should bring the whole affair back in alignment.
Thoughts anyone?
Andrew
 
Axles come out easy just like ramenth said.
Ramenth I see you are in Elmira, my wife was born there and moved out here when she was 6.
 
greendart72 said:
We didn't use the e brake hardware on our swap but I can't see why it wouldn't work if you could figure out how to hook the e brake cable up to them.
We didn't have to weld anything on the housing the caliper hoses hooked right into the existing brake lines. We did have to bend the lines some to make it work though.
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It looks like that is a sliding caliper so if you hooked up the hard line for the brakes then everytime you apply the brakes you will be flexing the steel line when the caliper moves. Not a lot but how many flexes can the line take before it breaks? Might want to look into short flex lines. Just a thought.

Larry
 
ramenth said:
. . . Thanks for putting up the link for us. But I think the gist that some are looking for is a donor you-pull-it junkyard kind of swap, say like with the Cherokee straight-up swap to the 8 1/4. Unbolt from one car, bolt directly onto the other. . .
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The only direct Mopar swap I'm aware of is from a 74/75 Imperial. IF (and that might be a big if) you can find a donor - a 74 or 75 Imperial that had the rear disc brakes will swap to the 8.75. Biggest issue is the rotors are virtually impossible to find. Doesn't really constitute a feasible swap but it is a remote possibility.
 
lhearold said:
It looks like that is a sliding caliper so if you hooked up the hard line for the brakes then everytime you apply the brakes you will be flexing the steel line when the caliper moves. Not a lot but how many flexes can the line take before it breaks? Might want to look into short flex lines. Just a thought.

Larry
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Good idea, never thought of that.
 
65 Dartman said:
The only direct Mopar swap I'm aware of is from a 74/75 Imperial. IF (and that might be a big if) you can find a donor - a 74 or 75 Imperial that had the rear disc brakes will swap to the 8.75. Biggest issue is the rotors are virtually impossible to find. Doesn't really constitute a feasible swap but it is a remote possibility.
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That's the only one I can think of, too, and it's made of pure unobtainium.
 
greendart72 said:
Ramenth I see you are in Elmira, my wife was born there and moved out here when she was 6.
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One of those small world things. The wife and I moved here a year ago, Dec. 1st. I've lived in and around Watkins Glen all my life, but with the exception of two jobs in Ithaca and one job in Corning, I've worked in Elmira pretty much all my life, so it was an easy move.
 
Ah the good old days.The Finger Lakes were my old stomping grounds. I was born and raised in the Livonia/Avon area. The scenery is far better in Upstate than here in Texas, but I can't stomach the political stupidity of our Empire State.
 
superdart said:
Ah the good old days.The Finger Lakes were my old stomping grounds. I was born and raised in the Livonia/Avon area. The scenery is far better in Upstate than here in Texas, but I can't stomach the political stupidity of our Empire State.
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And it's getting worse...but why ruin this thread and have the mods shut us down? :-D There's some offsetting reasons to continue here in Upstate. The wife has a job with the state here in Elmira. So the pay is good, the bennies are great. And since dodgepower needs the knowledge and know-how to bring his '72 Duster back to life, helping the 14 yo young gun is more than worth it, idiots in Albany be damned.
 
lhearold said:
It looks like that is a sliding caliper so if you hooked up the hard line for the brakes then everytime you apply the brakes you will be flexing the steel line when the caliper moves. Not a lot but how many flexes can the line take before it breaks? Might want to look into short flex lines. Just a thought.

Larry
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Looked at our install to see if it was hard lined to the calipers. It's not, the calipers from the jeep had rubber lines coming from the calipers that we hooked up to the hard line. Just had to put a bend in the hard line to make it work.
 
blue missile said:
OK,
how about in stead of drilling the fifth hole, you cut the bottom of the bracket out and mount it behind the flange which should decrease the offset by 3/8", leaving a 3/8"offset for the axle. If that works, a 3/8" spacer should bring the whole affair back in alignment.
Thoughts anyone?
Andrew
Click to expand...
my thoughts as well and i have already done it on a ford 8.8
 
That's cool, i've been told a few times that it was possible to use those disc brakes off of a Gr. cherokee but i've never come across anyone whos actually done it so never gave it much thought. That's cool to see that it works without too major modification. Could you tell me why the rallyes didn't work? I'd be interested to know because i'd love to do a swap like this but would probably be stuck with a stock set of wheels (such as rallyes) untill money allows an upgrade.
 
greendart72 said:
On the 8.75 we bolted the backing plate on then knocked the wheel studs out of the axle (because it is small bolt pattern) we held the rotor up against the axle hub then installed the caliper.In order for the rotor to line up propperly we had to move the rotor about 3/4 of an inch away from the hub. On the 8.25 every thing lined up perfect.
I was wondering if the fact that the 8.25 uses the c clips to hold the axles in as apposed to the flanges that keep the axles in the 8.75 might be the difference.
Wish now I would have taken some pictures of the problem with the mock up.
Click to expand...

did you figure i nthe offset difference of sbp drums to bbp drums?
 
74scamp360 said:
That's cool, i've been told a few times that it was possible to use those disc brakes off of a Gr. cherokee but i've never come across anyone whos actually done it so never gave it much thought. That's cool to see that it works without too major modification. Could you tell me why the rallyes didn't work? I'd be interested to know because i'd love to do a swap like this but would probably be stuck with a stock set of wheels (such as rallyes) untill money allows an upgrade.
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The 15" big bolt pattern ralleys we have fit okay it's the 14" small bolt pattern ones I have that hit the calipers.

We actually have one of the 15" on there now and it clears fine.
 
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