rear disc from grand cherokee on a 8 3/4

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And it's getting worse...but why ruin this thread and have the mods shut us down? :-D There's some offsetting reasons to continue here in Upstate. The wife has a job with the state here in Elmira. So the pay is good, the bennies are great. And since dodgepower needs the knowledge and know-how to bring his '72 Duster back to life, helping the 14 yo young gun is more than worth it, idiots in Albany be damned.

LOL! I still have a lot of family up there, and hopefully I'll be making a road trip up there with my dad in the spring. Can't wait to visit a state with seasons. We have only two down here: 1) Really friggin hot 2) Everything is Dead and Brown...but at least the drag strips are open nearly year round (only close for December/January for surface maintenance).:-D

It looks like I'll be waiting until January to get my brake/rear axle upgrade completed on the Dart.
 
While it seems everyone wants to sell you the GM "metric" calipers for "their" conversions, the various Ford/Lincoln rear disc brake setups from over the years have calipers that are probably just as common, with the 38MM Varga rear caliper from 94 and newer Mustangs the most common and easiest to get. It also has the parking brake built in and would require only cable adaptation to get a working parking brake.

In the spring, after the weather breaks, I'm figuring to use 54MM single piston with parking brake calipers from a Mark VII on my stock axle ("B" body, LBP to Duster), stock roller bearing, 8 3/4 along with the matching 11 1/4" diameter Lincoln rear rotors (rotor's center pilot hole will be matched to the axles).
The 73MM front calipers these rear discs came matched with from the factory are very close in size to the 2 3/4" (69.85MM) Mopar ones and should balance out nicely with an adjustable proportioning valve because the slightly smaller Mopar caliper is going on the 11 3/4" diameter "cop car" rotors (up from the just under 11" Lincoln ones).
Making up "C" shaped caliper brackets out of 3/8" plate to mount on the inboard side of the axle housing flange with longer bolts would allow use of the stock bearing retainers.
A master cylinder with a 15/16" or 1" diameter piston should be about right for manual brakes (I think the one the Duster has now is the right diameter, but it might not have enough reservoir capacity to accommodate rear discs), and a Mustang 1 1/6" disc brake master could be adapted to the "A" body bracket, booster, and linkage for a power setup.

I'll do a step be step photo essay and share when the time comes.
 
LOL! I still have a lot of family up there, and hopefully I'll be making a road trip up there with my dad in the spring. Can't wait to visit a state with seasons. We have only two down here: 1) Really friggin hot 2) Everything is Dead and Brown...but at least the drag strips are open nearly year round (only close for December/January for surface maintenance).:-D

It looks like I'll be waiting until January to get my brake/rear axle upgrade completed on the Dart.


Well, if you have some extra time feel free to give me a shout and stop in while you're up this way!
 
While it seems everyone wants to sell you the GM "metric" calipers for "their" conversions, the various Ford/Lincoln rear disc brake setups from over the years have calipers that are probably just as common, with the 38MM Varga rear caliper from 94 and newer Mustangs the most common and easiest to get. It also has the parking brake built in and would require only cable adaptation to get a working parking brake.

In the spring, after the weather breaks, I'm figuring to use 54MM single piston with parking brake calipers from a Mark VII on my stock axle ("B" body, LBP to Duster), stock roller bearing, 8 3/4 along with the matching 11 1/4" diameter Lincoln rear rotors (rotor's center pilot hole will be matched to the axles).
The 73MM front calipers these rear discs came matched with from the factory are very close in size to the 2 3/4" (69.85MM) Mopar ones and should balance out nicely with an adjustable proportioning valve because the slightly smaller Mopar caliper is going on the 11 3/4" diameter "cop car" rotors (up from the just under 11" Lincoln ones).
Making up "C" shaped caliper brackets out of 3/8" plate to mount on the inboard side of the axle housing flange with longer bolts would allow use of the stock bearing retainers.
A master cylinder with a 15/16" or 1" diameter piston should be about right for manual brakes (I think the one the Duster has now is the right diameter, but it might not have enough reservoir capacity to accommodate rear discs), and a Mustang 1 1/6" disc brake master could be adapted to the "A" body bracket, booster, and linkage for a power setup.

I'll do a step be step photo essay and share when the time comes.

Sounds like you have plan in mind. Take the pics, write up the essay, give us some seat time feelings from it and maybe put it up in tech. I would make a suggestion, though, considering these are brakes: make sure you give it seat time and get any kinks worked out with photos and descriptions of how they happened and how you fixed 'em before you post it so that if anyone tries the same set up you've got your butt covered. (As in "this is how I did it, if you don't do it this way and screwed something up, it's not my fault..." Wouldn't want an angry family member coming after you or the site...)
 
The 15" big bolt pattern ralleys we have fit okay it's the 14" small bolt pattern ones I have that hit the calipers.

We actually have one of the 15" on there now and it clears fine.


O Ok so it's just there's not enough caliper clearance for the 14" wheels, that makes sense. Again thanks for sharing, i'm sure that this will help a tons people a lot!! I hope to do this in the near furure, especially nowthat i've seen it done by someone else
 
so did the conversion to an 8 3/4 actually work??? I was reading a little further back and saw you saying that it didn't work out. I'm just interested. Are the very first pics you posted from the 8 3/4 swap or the 8 1/4??
 
so did the conversion to an 8 3/4 actually work??? I was reading a little further back and saw you saying that it didn't work out. I'm just interested. Are the very first pics you posted from the 8 3/4 swap or the 8 1/4??

The caliper bracket fit good on the 8 3/4 after we drilled the fifth hole in it, the same with the dust shield. The Rotor is the big bolt pattern and my axles are SBP so when we noticed the off set problem we made the decision to put the disc brakes on the 8 1/4 rear end under my son-in-laws dart.
I still need to get BBP axles for my 8 3/4 and wasn't ready to do it yet so we figured we might as well put the disc's on his ride.

If someone can figure out the off set problem on the 8 3/4 it would be a fairly easy swap.

We spent total some where around $100 to $150 to make the swap on the 8 1/4 That included new rotors.
 
so you just need a set of axles that will fit those rotors and it should work, or is there something else that's giving you problems? Thanks for sharing this. i know for me this is really valuable info.
 
I still need to get BBP axles for my 8 3/4 and wasn't ready to do it yet so we figured we might as well put the disc's on his ride.

If someone can figure out the off set problem on the 8 3/4 it would be a fairly easy swap.

We spent total some where around $100 to $150 to make the swap on the 8 1/4 That included new rotors.[/QUOTE]


Great job!

Given what you know about the swap and what's left to do (BBP axles), are you planing to re-drill the rear axles?
 
If you wanted to go with GM metrics why couldn't you take a page from the street rodders and build your own rear disk set up? www.Speedwaymotors.com should have enough of the parts for cheap to put one together. If you are going with an 8 1/4 I would stay with the Jeep stuff but if you have a 8 3/4 or something else you should be able to build something for way cheaper than any of the Wilwood kits.


http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Stamped-Steel-Brake-Hat-3-Inch-Offset,1995.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Caliper-Brackets,3346.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Weld-On-Flat-Mount-Standard-Caliper-Brackets,3348.html

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/GM-Basic-Rear-Disc-Brake-Kits,1998.html
 
That's a good idea J.R, it's a little involved for me atleast. I was interested in grand cherokee one cause i could get one super cheap. How well does all that chevy stuff work on an 8 3/4?
 
No, the only reason I mentioned the axles is that that was one of the reasons we decided to just put the set up on the 8 1/4 instead of trying to install them on the 8 3/4. I couldn't afford to buy axles right now.
The problem was the rotor would not line up with the caliper on the 8 3/4 without either making some sort of spacer to move the rotor out away from the axle hub of have longer axles made.
 
is it the narrow flange width on the a body axel that is causing the caliper, disk alignment problem?
"note below was copied brom a internet posting"
Besides the obvious bolt circle lug pattern difference between the A-body 4" BC axle and
all other passenger car 4.5" BC axles, there is a sometimes unexpected difference in the
flange that tends to cause confusion. The distance from the axle housing flange to the
wheel flange of the axle is 1/4" smaller on A-body axles than on the standard 4.5"​
passenger car axle. On an A-body axle this measures 2", on 4.5" BC axles its 2.25".
 
Well nuts! I was all set to jump on this one till I saw 14 inch wheels won't work. I just got my 14 Inch Magnum 500's tired up and ready to go on my Dart. Guess I will be sticking with the Rear Drums for a while longer..... They have worked just fine for the last 40 years.... LOL

Later,
Bruce B.
 
twofosho,
have you done anything about the issues yet? Im anxious to see the play by play.
Andrew
 
it looks like that is a sliding caliper so if you hooked up the hard line for the brakes then everytime you apply the brakes you will be flexing the steel line when the caliper moves. Not a lot but how many flexes can the line take before it breaks? Might want to look into short flex lines. Just a thought.

Larry
the rear disc have a short rubber flex hose between the caliper and hard line. I'v got the whole rear end out from a grand cherokee just the other day. Brakr cables and all.:-d:-d:-d
 
The jeep brakes are on my son-in-laws 8 1/4 rear end in his dart and seem to work fine. He hasn't figured out how to hook up a E brake yet though. He bent a valve in his motor and has been working on that.

I put the rear drums back on my 8 3/4.
 
To answer your questions I don't believe there to be a true "bolt on" rear disk assembly for the 8 3/4. Not in the perspective of just bolting on and go with just a few, no hassle mods. Not in the sense I believe you're looking for from the tone of the first post quoted above.

You missed one that everybody avoids. 75-76 Imperial rear disc brakes. Hard to find but a true bolt in ONLY if you are running 15" wheels.
 
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