Aluminum slant build

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1wild&crazyguy

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I went up the hill to prather and cherry picked the aluminum 225 out of my wife and I's '62 v200 valiant to start disassembling , machining and rebuilding.
More pics to come, here's a few for now.
I've only pulled the induction and cylinder head off, gonna pull the pan today and tear down the bottom end.
I think I'm gonna weld up the deck.

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Get in touch with Doug Dutra ("Doctor Dodge" over on slantsix.org ); he has done a lot of experimenting with various ways of closing up the open deck on the aluminum 225. Some methods work, some methods ruin the engine. Welding is a poor choice. Go talk to Doug!
 
That thing was so light to throw around it wasnt even funny! Especially with the head off! This little slant is baaaad8)
 
Badart said:
Very cool!!! What are the plans for the build? I am looking forward to this.
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So far I have a set epn 1.70/1.44 valves, aluminum clifford 4brl intake, 390 holley carb, a crank scraper, and port work on a head I already have[depending on chamber seal with the newer heads chamber diameter]

It's gonna be drivin by the wife mostly but I ain't building a 'mushy granny mover', or 'the 60's version of a motorized chair' So the cam will be somewhere around 260*ish or +
I though about custom tall roller lifters and going that route, still looking into it though.
Something that gets .450 after lash' and [email protected] 260*advertised on a 108-110 comes to mind... but slants are different animals as their proven to work cam profiles in comparison to sb/bb engines, like a stroker they like narrow cl's
 
and the compression like 9.5 ....

I know, I really was gonna buy the motor [didn't intend to buy whole car] for just 'me' and build the limits out of it as much as possible but...hey.. better than stock right?
and she like these cars['61-'62lancer/valiants]
 
THIS....should be interesting, to say the least.
 
Grinder said:
That thing was so light to throw around it wasnt even funny!
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At one time I had five aluminum 225s (now down to two). I used to like to call up the machine shop, tell them I was bringing in a Dodge 225 slant-6, and then walk in through their front door carrying the block in my two hands and say "Here's that Dodge 225 I called about; where do you want me to put it?". :lol:
 
Cool. Heres my dads aluminum slant. He bought the rebuilt block from a friend and an original Hyperpack intake, carb, and nos exhaust manifolds. Its just mocked up now, he recently got a comp cam, springs and chain and gears from e-bay. Plans are for a 60 Valiant wagon.

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My grandfather worked for chrysler 'kokomo' ind, walton was where he lived.
He cast these aluminum slant blocks and ran the line, he later came to california and worked for mattel toys and mcdonald douglas.

but L.S.S this is a special thing for me in more ways than 1.
 
I think your going to be disappointed with trying to run that much compression in an Aluminum Engine. Save your fancy stuff and money for an Iron block engine. JMHO.
Frank
 
66aCUDA said:
I think your going to be disappointed with trying to run that much compression in an Aluminum Engine. Save your fancy stuff and money for an Iron block engine. JMHO.
Frank
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yep there are alot of things about the aluminum blocks that are different. they have no cam bearings like a viper motor, u can only bore then to .040 before having to re sleeve them. there is a specail head gasket and also the main caps/bolts and spacers are one off! u lose those its worthless!

i'll try to find the pics of the one i had, sold just the block for a grand!

heard that there is an aluminum head that comes with some of those and talked with a guy that was on the assembly line and he confirms it!
 
805moparkid said:
heard that there is an aluminum head that comes with some of those and talked with a guy that was on the assembly line and he confirms it!
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Nope. There were some prototype aluminum heads in '60—three of them are known still to exist, and a few more probably do—and there was another engineering project to make an aluminum head in the mid '70s when casting technology wasn't as problematic as it had been in '60 (one of these prototypes is known to exist; more might), but none of these were ever produced on a production basis or installed on a production engine.

Your guy might've been thinking of the fact that a special head was used on the '61-'62 aluminum 225s. The first batch of these had "SPECIAL" cast in the external casting number location (top surface between the front and rear threaded bosses, between the valve cover rail and the manifold mounting face); the second batch had a 5-pointed star cast in the external casting number location. All of them had the casting number 2206035 inboard of the valve cover rail (under the valve cover). This same casting number was in the external location on iron-engine heads. All these heads were made out of iron. The differences were slight: the head for the aluminum engine had closer control over the combustion chamber placement and max diameter to assure a full-circle seal against the narrow sealing surface at the top of each freestanding cylinder in the aluminum block, and there was additional clearance for the pushrods due to the slightly different pushrod angle in the aluminum engine.

For '63 (officially; practically late in '62 model year), the mods made to the head for use with the aluminum block were extended to all slant-6 cylinder heads, still with the casting number 2206035 which would remain in use through '66. Shortly into the '63 model year, the aluminum block was discontinued.
 
He's not kidding. The aluminum 225 does not take kindly to much of any compression increase. You are dealing with a very early bimetal (iron/aluminum) engine with very small cylinder seal surface and very primitive gasket technology. Do a lot of talking to those who've been where you're headed before you go there.
 
I have, 10.1 was pushing it to distortion and blown gaskets.

this is another benefit of closing the deck up.

BTW I asked doug how he would do it and all he said was welding it is not the way.
 
Wow!! I was impressed by the repair sleeves that Doc from S.S.F. makes to repair these blocks. Very cool!!
 
Go back and re-read the thread; he's posted pics of the repair rings he's used. Use the board's search function; there've been many threads over there about special builds on aluminum 225s. This one and this one are especially good, with tons of pics and descriptive text. There are others, too.
 
Ultimately its YOUR engine. Im just trying to save you some heartburn and disappointment. Even Doug told you over 9 to 1 on an Aluminum block is bad. This doesnt even take into account the fact that Doug has seen hundreds of these and put at least 15 of them together as warmed up street engines. Most of these ended up torn down for various problems.
Also to consider is the amount of work and dollars you will have to put in just to see if it will work.
Dont forget about the corrosion problems with this engine as well.
Im not trying to get you to not build this just dont over do it. There are a lot of ways to make a slant not be a slug and a 9 to 1 engine can be fun to drive.
Frank
 
66aCUDA said:
Ultimately its YOUR engine. Im just trying to save you some heartburn and disappointment. Even Doug told you over 9 to 1 on an Aluminum block is bad. This doesnt even take into account the fact that Doug has seen hundreds of these and put at least 15 of them together as warmed up street engines. Most of these ended up torn down for various problems.
Also to consider is the amount of work and dollars you will have to put in just to see if it will work.
Dont forget about the corrosion problems with this engine as well.
Im not trying to get you to not build this just dont over do it. There are a lot of ways to make a slant not be a slug and a 9 to 1 engine can be fun to drive.
Frank
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I know bro, The idea was to bleed just a lil off with some overlap in the cam.

I want 145psi dynamic with which ever cam I end up using, thats for sure.
it could end up 8.8 comp and I'd be happy.

You know if I was to do a roller in this it might even break the lifter bores off with the spring pressure, who knows...

I might just build a boring stock motor out of it that sits in the corner of the shop most of it's life meanwhile build a stout iron block .060 over, long rods, same bolt on's but bigger cam with 10.2 compression...

All I know is there is some good reading over there with dougs builds, some of it quite entertaining and reminds me of a lot of engineers I run into that think cause they are engineers they know all...thats when they wash out the rings 'cause they think they understand carbs' ..thats also when they toss rods like doug did trying to run .004 rod side clearances and such...no no
Not bashing doug but to do all that and then roll the dice on tight clearances doesn't make sense??
I would think one would just face the rods a lil and polish the thrust bearing down, been there that.

I liked the light rotating mass idea a lot though[for an aluminum block]

I won't run under .006 crank end play, and I like to run .002+ bearing clearances as well.
chrysler had the oil holes on the rods for a reason.

I also wanna get more info on the block filling of the deck and if that would work like doug says instead of having to weld or whatever.

I can't post pics on slant6org, so I might not get any notice over there.

I'm used to 'high volume' sites, thats why I'm here at FABO!
once I talk to keith at autopower and we go over our options, I'll be able to make up my mind.
 
hemijoejr said:
Wow!! I was impressed by the repair sleeves that Doc from S.S.F. makes to repair these blocks. Very cool!!
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yes very impressive, amazing that JB weld will hold them too.
Thats what I'm looking into or
Has anyone re sleeved an aluminum slant?

If possible, flanged top sleeves would be nice but it doesn't look easy.

though the aluminum shells don't look like they could hold a blade of grass steady, so...maybe.
 
Looks like there is some chunks off the outside of the cyl walls. This may give you problems sealing ( or it may not). How deep are those chips? Remember that the Aluminum Engine was dropped because of corrosion and a number of other problems.
I would rebuild the Aluminum as mostly a stock engine and Build you a Stout iron one.
Good Luck,
Frank
 
66aCUDA said:
Remember that the Aluminum Engine was dropped because of corrosion and a number of other problems.
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No, the aluminum 225 was discontinued because aluminum was much more costly than iron and despite the much faster machining and longer tool life, Chrysler were unable to achieve the day-in, day-out zero-problem production that they could attain with the iron engine. Given that nobody cared about a lighter-weight engine in the days of 29¢/gallon gasoline, the decision to go to all-iron was an easy one for Chrysler to make (though one wonders if they ever amortised the fancy die-casting equipment brought in specially to make these engines).
 
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