Recent content by 72RoadRunnerGTX

As mentioned, the extra 3-pin connector is for C-body cornering lights, can be ignored for other platforms without cornering lights. If the 8-pin pigtail wire color coding does not match the original switch, its likely one of the current cheap reproductions. Yellow cancel cam, missing the wheel...

As mentioned, the Miller C-3826 special tool (referenced in most all FSMs from the time) is a dealer used factory tool and is simply a three-way selectable resistor pack, having the resistance values I added to that cropped picture above prior to posting it some time ago on one of the forums. It...

For those who believe the ammeter will eventually spontaneously “burn out” or short to the cluster frame for no reason whatsoever, moving one ammeter lead to the other ammeter stud will still leave you exposed to the mythical “spontaneously combusting ammeter” syndrome. Would need to remove both...

Well it sounds like you never heard of Kirchhoff's current law and the current divider rule. You can’t wire circuit protection devices in parallel without increasing the total circuit protection for any part of both paths. Even with circuit protection on your heavy gauge shunt wire it still...

Couldn’t disagree more. For same reasons you list for other types of vehicles. Any serious monitoring of DC circuits involves ammeters of some type. Nope, never have. A centered needle indicates a normal balanced charging system; a fully charged battery and all loads being handled by the...

What would be the difference? One bypasses the ammeter only, does nothing to address the real weakness in this original charging system, the charge path Packard terminals in the bulkhead connector. The other bypass discussed/promoted here, the direct alternator to battery heavy gauge wire...

Thanks, some valid points here, and one not so much, very dangerous in fact. The factory “fleet bypass”, C body recall bypass, and ammeter construction are all covered in detail in those videos mentioned. Closing in on about 50 years in the trade myself, many at the dealers back in the day. I do...

If running a stock ammeter, never draw power directly form the battery, or anywhere on the battery, side of the ammeter for any add on loads.

As mentioned, size the circuit protection devices to protect the wiring, not the alternator. Nothing wrong with the original 16-gauge fusible link for that application on an all-stock loaded system. Fusible links will absorb the occasional current spike that will trip a fuse or circuit breaker...

Thanks, I’ve been dealing with these types of voltage drop issues dating back many years, to my time at the dealers in the seventies, well before the internet and any of these current automotive forums. Can’t take credit for the “flied relay”, that is a factory idea starting in the mid to late...

Consider adding a field relay, mentioned towards the end of this video.

Sounds like you may be missing the key point to the demo/videos. This is not about charging current from the alternator to the battery while in operation. It’s about total circuit protection from a short or overload condition. It really doesn’t matter what type of circuit protection devices are...

Some more load testing for this "Shunt wire" by-pass. 120+ amps on the stock wiring before any circuit protection opens?

Fuse technology has improved significantly since these cars were designed but they can still fail at a much lower current than they are designed to open or quickly open on current spikes. An open or tripped fuse/circuit breaker used in this application means an engine stall if the car is in...