Recent content by 72RoadRunnerGTX

Careful with that shunt wire approach, very dangerous as it also circumvents the circuit protection for the entire electrical system. Virtually guarantees wires will burn in the event of a short.

Adding two more relays as diagramed will remove all of the blower motor current from the blower speed selector switch as well and retain the designed blower speed control.

Verify you have power coming out of the muti-selector switch on the tan wire (C7A-14T) while in the heat positions. The power to the to the blower selector/resistor pack will switch between the brown (C4A-14BR) and tan wires. A/C positions should have power on the brown wire, no power on the tan...

Old thread revived it appears. If wanting to relieve the blower motor current draw from the multi-selector switch and retain the original blower speed control function as designed, two relays are required and have to be placed between the muti-selector switch and the resistor pack on the...

Power to the radio is supplied from the fuse box (fuse #3) on X12 14 R*.

To be clear, the seat switch used for this application are not “pressure” sensitive, they don’t respond to direct compression. They clip to a seat spring and detect the flex of the seat spring downward as weight is applied, contacts close when the strip switch is flexed out of its normal...

Basically, for this year, power for the warning system comes from ignition1 (key run position only) routed to the seatbelt relay and one side of the buzzer/light. The relay primary is triggered by a ground from either the parking brake switch(manual) or the NSS (automatics). The normally closed...

As mentioned, that’s seat belt warning related, red and grey wires for the right seat weight sensor switch. The switch may have been removed from the seat cushion springs if not able to locate the seat wires.

As mentioned, the extra 3-pin connector is for C-body cornering lights, can be ignored for other platforms without cornering lights. If the 8-pin pigtail wire color coding does not match the original switch, its likely one of the current cheap reproductions. Yellow cancel cam, missing the wheel...

As mentioned, the Miller C-3826 special tool (referenced in most all FSMs from the time) is a dealer used factory tool and is simply a three-way selectable resistor pack, having the resistance values I added to that cropped picture above prior to posting it some time ago on one of the forums. It...

For those who believe the ammeter will eventually spontaneously “burn out” or short to the cluster frame for no reason whatsoever, moving one ammeter lead to the other ammeter stud will still leave you exposed to the mythical “spontaneously combusting ammeter” syndrome. Would need to remove both...

Well it sounds like you never heard of Kirchhoff's current law and the current divider rule. You can’t wire circuit protection devices in parallel without increasing the total circuit protection for any part of both paths. Even with circuit protection on your heavy gauge shunt wire it still...

Couldn’t disagree more. For same reasons you list for other types of vehicles. Any serious monitoring of DC circuits involves ammeters of some type. Nope, never have. A centered needle indicates a normal balanced charging system; a fully charged battery and all loads being handled by the...

What would be the difference? One bypasses the ammeter only, does nothing to address the real weakness in this original charging system, the charge path Packard terminals in the bulkhead connector. The other bypass discussed/promoted here, the direct alternator to battery heavy gauge wire...

Thanks, some valid points here, and one not so much, very dangerous in fact. The factory “fleet bypass”, C body recall bypass, and ammeter construction are all covered in detail in those videos mentioned. Closing in on about 50 years in the trade myself, many at the dealers back in the day. I do...