Recent content by 75 plymouth scamp

brand new distributor and new avs2 600 carb. i can rev this engine to the moon just fine...if i put it down in drive and stab the gas hard it dies. starts back up idles like a dream . new tune up on everything new carb and hei distributor. still having issues. at a loss chasing things down any...

i have tried to adjust that middle hole or last hole same deal....

on the AVS 2 CARB? is there a way to adjust it? sorry for my ignorance. thats why im here lol

Hey ya'll i have a 75 scamp..318 brand new from summit 650 cfm avs 2 edelbrock carb........new wires, new plugs, new fuel pump new gas tank new one pin gm alternator and im running hei gm distributor......car runs good down the road but two things when i stand on it at 50 it stumbles hard. then...

Ok i just had to gap my reluctor to .08 it was pretty far gapped from factory. its a oem replacement on from oreilys. timing was 9 BTDC so i advanced it to around 13.... set idle around 800 in park. i also backed my fuel pressure down a bit hovering between 5 and 6.... the coil is a stock napa...

Stock 904 transmission with a aftermarket stahl convertor i thing 2500 i was told, bm shift kit. with z gate shifter. hydraulic camp , lumpy one. stock internals. aluminimum eddy intake and a 1405 carb. choke is actally pinned back but when warm at 70 out or higher i wouldnt think it would run...

Also is there a difference between a slant 6 ballast resistor and a v8 one? im running a oem replacement 2 prong resistor......

So short story......slant 6 70 duster to 318 swap...all new components carb electrical ect......when i start the car cold runs decent idles great ....go drive it down the road drives good . try and back up or turn around wants to stumble. drive home runs good. park in the drive way idles rough...

Turns out it was the ballast resistor....running now thanks for help yall

Ok here we go ...... just completed the slant 6 to 318 convert in my 70 duster. All new electrical components are . Distributor, coil, ballast resistor, mopar orange ign box, plugs , cap, rotor. starter solonoid and battery. yesterday i got it running with new coil ran fine, drove down the road...

Does anyone know the measurements from the transmission crossmember to the rear axle , thinking about just doing my own exhaust all the sudden and im not home near my car lol. in town at work and was going to have exhaust pipes cut then work on it tonite. plans are just dumping a short flow...

seems on an a body like mine there would be no need for this goofy reverse curl.. i may just re paint these put them back on and roll the dice on exhaust guys. just dont want to have to do musical trailering to diff shops . dont want to drive it with open manifolds. just need to shop around see...

*noted

THIS IS CURRENTLY WHAT I HAVE TO WORK WITH THAT CAME WITH THE ENGINE, I KNOW MOST OF YOU PROBLY DONT UNDERSTAND WHY IT WONT WORK FOR ME. THE PASSENGER MANIFOLD WITHT HE HEAT RISER THING WORKS FINE I HAVE ROOM TO HAVE MY EXHAUST GUY RUN A PIPE TO. THE ISSUE IS THE DIRVER SIDE MANIFOLD THE WAY IT...

HERE IS THE STORY.....70 DUSTER SLANT SIX CAR SWAPPED TO MID 70S SMALL BLOCK 318. I DIDNT CHANGE K MEMBER JUST TRANS DAPT MOUNTS. 904 TRANS. POWER STEERING POWER BRAKE CAR....I AM TRYING TO FIND A MANIFOLD SET THAT WILL WORK. THE PASSENGER SIDE ISNT TO BAD BUT DRIVER SIDE IS TIGHT FITTING ...