Recent content by AJ/FormS

What's wrong with your A903? Those things are super simple. Back in the 70s I rebuilt hundreds of those, with not even one comeback in over 5 years.

To really make those heads work, you gotta get that dismal 140psi up to at least 185, and 195 makes a killer street machine. Ask me how I know. Until you fix the pressure issue, I wouldn't waste my time with anything else...... unless you have an auto-trans, then I'd order a performance...

Swapping to an auto with a floor-shifter is super simple.

At 7.8 Scr, and say an ICA of 64 degrees, You might expect cranking cylinder pressure of 115psi @900ft elevation. You might expect the bottom end to feel only a lil stronger than a slanty. The only way past this is; with a moderate stall converter and Hi-perf rear gears, and Forget about...

If you have done any repairs looking for the problem, don't forget that the mufflers and exhaust system, will be full of condensed oil, and as soon as the pipes get some heat in them, that oil will begin to smoke. There's no telling how long it will take to burn off.

You also need to get on the same page, in terms of terminology. Once again; Your engine has FOUR timing requirements. Idle timing; sometimes called; static/base Power-Timing: sometimes called "all-in", or mechanical /centrifical/centrifugal Part-Throttle Timing, Cruise-Timing. All of these are...

Yes you can; Disconnect the VA from the carb, then Tee a vacuum gauge on the VA, and a long hose that reaches out to the radiator. With your timing light installed, engine idling; just suck on the VA until the timing changes. Then suck harder and read the timing again; and repeat until more...

Dwell time, read on the meter, is NOT doubled. The only thing that gets doubled is the distributor rpm, to get crank rpm. "All-in"/Power-Timing, is measured with your timing light directly. For all the SB Mopes I have ever worked on, the "all-in" Power-Timing, should happen in the window of 3000...

As for the coil; I have had excellent results with the big yellow square-top Accell Supercoil. Easily goes to 7200 on the Street, idles all day, and mine is about 25 years old now. I run mine off the battery, thru a relay, that is turned on by the ignition switch; so the power is not going...

If the engine already runs, and none of the wires are too short, then what more do you want, just drive it.

Com'on man, it's a 440. Do you really think that on the street, 255s are gunna make a difference? or even 275s? I think I see new bigger tubs in your future; or a 2-barrel carb.............. lol.

If we're talking 360, then here's my experience; When I installed KB107s, they came in pretty much all of them, at .012 below deck, which at 4.045 bore is 210.5 cc per inch, and 012 below deck is thus 2.52 cc.; calculated/not measured. My block is a 1971. The first time I assembled this engine...

Just so you know; When I built my 367, the machine shop refused to install my KB107s at the KB recommended skirt clearance of .0015>.0020. I got the block back measuring .0035skirt clearance. Ok fine, I said, you guys build race motors so, it is what it is now. I gapped the rings to KB...

I'll tell you what I would do before I started taking things apart. I'm NOT telling you what you should do, and IDK why no one has mentioned this yet, and yes I read the entire thread. As for the oil getting sucked up from the valley here is an easy test; Just flip the PCV out of it's grommet...

Is this the same trans; Just rebuilt?