Recent content by cletus

First thing that comes to mind is a ballast resistor.

I have front seats out of a 1995 or 1996 Ford Explorer in my '73. I had to bend the original mounting brackets of the seats some and drill new mounting holes in the floor. I was dumb and didn't look under the car first, punched right into a fuel line, so watch out. The seats still have the...

Sure, and if the engine sat for a bunch of years it would be a good possibility that a valve stuck open, piston ran into it, and it could be either bent or broken causing the engine to bind when the piston runs back into it. If it was mine I would be at least pulling the valve cover off for...

Couldn't this still be a dropped valve? Or a timing chain jumped or broken? I don't see where the valve cover was pulled to inspect, did I miss that? IMO pulling a head for reman or replacement and/or replacing a timing set would be easier than an engine swap.

Little update - Not too much progress, but I did manage to get a Holley Red fuel pump used for cheap from someone on FBBO. It is plumbed in, block off plate installed, power wire run from pump to the front. Will likely finish wiring in the relay this weekend. Still haven't made the adjustment on...

That reminds me, on a side note, I have a wiring diagram printed out I got on the internet from an old service manual hanging on my garage wall, I'm going to have to start making some changes to that to show what I actually have in the car where it doesn't match the original.

Crackedback - I don't think diagnosing issues in that system will be terrible either way, there isn't much to it. Tim - That's a great idea, I hadn't even thought of it, I don't have the original sending unit in the car anyway as I have an aftermarket gauge. So then I could tie in to the low...

That is exactly what I was looking at doing, thanks a bunch for the info. I don't need anything made up, I do appreciate the offer though. I already have a relay and plenty of wire and connectors to do the job and I am pretty well versed in repairing and replacing existing wiring, I just...

Dear Hive Mind - Here is another question about adding an electric fuel pump. The idea is to wire in a relay to switched power, I currently have an MSD 6A box wired in place of the original ballast resistor and factory ignition box, am I going to cause any problems by pulling switched power...

AaaaaHA! I just found a picture showing the pipe plug, now it makes sense. I had forgotten that it was on the outside of the block under the pump. I haven't looked at that side of the engine in a while. Thanks everyone for the quick replies, that's one of the many reasons I love this forum.

I had the engine down to the bare block just a few years ago for a rebuild, I'm betting it won't be too bad. The plan is to go electric and never look back. Eventually when the funds are there I will probably be looking at a throttle body EFI. I'm liking what I'm reading about the Fitech system...

Does the pipe plug need to be reinstalled for oil pressure?

Sounds easy enough. Thanks!!!

Dear Hive Mind - I'm about to install an electric fuel pump and would like to remove the mechanical pump and add a block off plate. The engine is a '78 model year 440 if that makes a difference. It has been quite a while since I reassembled the engine, I don't recall how the fuel pump is...

FWIW I have a 284/484 MP cam in the 440, there are 2 versions, one with 112 or 114 lobe separation (I don't remember which) and the one I have is 108 deg lobe separation. I dropped mine in "straight up." I suspect the OP is fighting the same thing I was with the low idle/off idle vacuum and...