383 build no power

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OP
That TC has got to go.Are you sure it's a 2000. Have you tested it? Of course if the engine isn't making any appreciable torque down there, I guess a stall test might not prove much.
From the little I can see of that vacuum gauge, it seems to be in error. I have never seen a needle drop to ZERO on those little throttle blips.Was it actually reading Zero?
It kindof acts like the cam timing is way late . What maximum vacuum will it pull, in Neutral, as you slowly rev it up? And at what rpm is this maximum reached? Stop the test when the vacuum no longer rises, or at 3200,whichever comes first.
 
You should not be idling at 950, the rpm shouldn't drop 400rpm in gear, the rest of the parts swapping is harder (gears &/or convertor) and more expensive, and you want a nice cruiser/driver. Leave the rest. Buy a cam and gaskets for $400, re-tune, and go enjoy the car.
 
My 383 had a Sig Erson .484 cam and it said right on the cam card to run a minimum of a 3.91 gear
(which is what I had). I swapped in a 3.23 one weekend and it still drove ok but all of the "snap" was
gone. My recipe: Minimum 2800 stall TC and 3.91 gear. 38 degrees total timing; no less. If I took the
timing back to 35 total it was a turd. Small carb (ex. 600) ok. Edelbrock Performer (not RPM) and 1-7/8"
headers will also help. with this combination it was crispy and F A S T !
 
Ran into this with several builds that were brought to the shop, You need a 3000 and up converter . The one you are using is for a truck and used for towing. We put factory spares on a car an 410 gears with that same converter you couldn't spin the tires with guys picking up on the rear of the car. We installed a Factory 340 converter behind a Big block It stalled a 3300 usually 2800-2900 behind a small block. You could not hook the car up on the street with 276x60 15's. It would turn the tires through second gear. Also set timing at 15 before initial and 35 before total by shorting the advance.
 
I have a 400 with the same problem using some items that I had in inventory - came to the same conclusion mismatch of parts wrong intake - TC stall speed - possibly cam and carb
 
I thought the Dacco 764 was factory high stall speed I read that on fourums somewhere that's why I ordered it
I called They say Dacco should be 2200 to 2300 stall
 
72golddustermike said:
Thinking of the luanati 701 or 702
Click to expand...

The 701/702s are in the ballpark
The Lunati10230701LK is 256/262/112 cam with .454/.475 lift, and is 213/220 @050
old Hughes HE1423BL is 260/270/112 cam with .470/.504 lift, and is 214/223@050
A comp Cams XE256H is 256/268/110 cam with .447/.455 lift, and is 212/218@050

A CompCams XE262H is 262/270/110 cam with .462/.470 lift, and is 218/224 @050
old Hughes HE1923BL is 266/270/112 cam with .489/.504 lift, and is 219/223@050

Now these cams are not all measured the same way!
Comps are measured at .006 off the base circle.
Hughes are measured at .008 off the base circle.
Lunati;IDK

Ima liking the Old discontinued Hughes HE1423BL, and heres why; the intake @050 is about the same as your chosen 701,but it has a bit extra on the exhaust, to help with manifolds. It also has over 3.5% more intake lift, and over 6% more exhaust lift,again favoring logs and small exhaust pipes. But heres the thing, since it is measured at .008 as compared to the Lunati at .006, the Hughes if measured on the Lunati machine, would actually be even bigger than published. How much is anybody's guess.The clincher is this; with a 10* spread on the advertised durations, you can play around quite a bit with the installed centerline, which in turn, allows the ICA to be messed with, which will mess with Dcr, which will mess with LOW-RPM Torque. Just what the doctor ordered.
So, if you installed that 1423 straight up at 112, your ICA would be 62*. If you installed it at 108, the ICA would come in at 58*. If you installed it at 110*, the ICA would come in at 60* and she would be almost exactly at spit overlap. Now all this probably doesn't mean much to you, but the 4* spread in ICAs means cylinder pressure changing from about 155 to 161, and the Dcr changing from 7.86 to 8.01(with 9.7Scr).This may not sound like much on paper, but it can help make or break your combo, especially considering that the exact Scr is not known.
Now I have no idea what Hughes replaced this cam with, cuz they don't publish their advertised specs with their current in-production cams, so you would have to call Dave.
And finally, after the new cam is broken in, you may find that TC is still not allowing enough rpm to get off the line with any kind of giddy-up, so be prepared for a TC swap, in the end,anyway.

As for me, knowing that a TC swap is imminent, I would just do that first. But it would be a compromise cuz for me,a 3500 would not be going into my cruiser. I would probably select something in the 2800 to 3000. Then if I just was still not happy,I would swap to a slightly bigger cam than those listed above, cuz they are just too tame for me.In that 383, I would be shopping for something closer to/but not more than, 230*050, with a 2800 to 3000TC

and a final word from CrazyKuda, Those Rhodes lifters will let you install a cam that is between 2 to 3 sizes bigger than you might normally choose. They are pretty good for marrying stuff in cases like yours. They are not cheap, and the noise they make is not for everyone, but they will allow quite a bit of cam leeway.He loves 'em. So maybe,reread his posts, an re-evaluate your needs and wants as I may have misread them, per post #47 .
 
Trust me when I say go with the smaller cams. It will be MUCH more fun as a cruiser.
 
FWIW I have a 284/484 MP cam in the 440, there are 2 versions, one with 112 or 114 lobe separation (I don't remember which) and the one I have is 108 deg lobe separation. I dropped mine in "straight up."

I suspect the OP is fighting the same thing I was with the low idle/off idle vacuum and trying to use the vacuum advance on the distributor. Both vacuum advance cans I have don't start to move until you pull 8" vacuum adjusted all the way the right direction (less vacuum more advance). Rhodes lifters would probably solve the problem, I opted for an adjustable mechanical advance billet distributor without the vacuum can.
 
the 702 is a good choice , also the rhodes lifters might have worked as stated but still the cam might have been too big.Set the dist. like fbo said to.Also you never said what no. plugs they were.
 
Stay under 226@050. Unless you stroke it, 386ish cubes are easy to neuter with a bunch of "cool" sounding duration. Big difference between it and a 440. You will have no problem breaking them loose with 600 cfms and a 268ish cam. There are a few threads on here about big dollar engines that could not get out of their own way under 3500 RPM. Decide on the cam, converter and gears as a package
 
It's simple, that purple shaft is rite around [email protected], you need a much looser
TC that will stall 2800. It will run like a raped ape w/a 750 3310 holley,and as has
been mentioned above, rock w an older eddy DP ....to the tune of 6500 w/o even
battin an eye. Just make sure your fuel system is keeping up w/it.
I ran mine w/a 4 gear,2.94 posi 8 1/4, and 275/60r15 Goodrich's. I could burn
first for 100ft, and grab second for another 80ft, car weighed 3650 as raced.You
should have no troubles once you've got the proper TC,regardless of the gears.
I did have closed chamber heads template ported,and 1.74 exh valves,nothing
exotic. HAVE THE CENTERLINE CHECKED, ...... that is all :)
 
AJ/FormS said:
I thought the 284 was closer to 240@050
I guess my memory is worse than I thought...........
Click to expand...

Lol, maybe not, i was thinking of the 280 street hemi single pattern cam in the
440 I'm working on (a hughes 236 cam is going back in). I believe the last 292
purple shaft checked in 248-250 zone, so 238-240 is probably right, either way
OP needs some stall!!! :)
 
Hard to stand on my head to see what you have. I don't think your at TDC. The cam should be at the 12 O clock position and it looks way off. It wouldn't run there. Unless I'm looking at the wrong mark. Can't see the crank mark.
 
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