383 build no power

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But your not going to know what the installed CL is without a degree wheel and dial indicator. Just because the timing marks are lined up correctly, there is no telling what the installed CL is.
 
72golddustermike said:
timing dots aare not lined up the cam sprocket dot is at about 2 o clock
Click to expand...

this does not mean squat!!!

However you do already have a "3 key" advance retard timing drive, but I cannot tell from your photo "where" you are. Where is the crank mark? Offhand I'd say you are not at tdc

What you need to do is get a short straightedge, and get the bottom dot "centered" in the center of the two shafts, and then see where you are.

What you REALLY REALLY need to do is get an opinion from some of the guys "where to degree that cam" and then get yourself some tools and degree it in.
 
I see the crank now. You need to get the dam cam dot at 6 O'clock so you can see it. In other words, rotate the crank 1 turn. Then take a straightedge and jiggle things until you see if they line up.

Get a degree wheel and plan on advancing the darn thing

Also, which mark / keyway are you using? I can't tell, is it straight up, advanced, or retard?

You could also just play the odds. (I wouldn't) figure out which slot is advanced, and put the thing together using the advance keyway.
 
72golddustermike said:
this is what I found when I tore it down this is supposed to be tdc
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If #1 piston is in fact at TDC, then the cam is out.
But;
Simply spinning the crank over to put the crank dot straight up, on a multi-keyway sprocket, "means squat".The piston has to be at TDC no matter what.Then if the cam dot is at either 6 or 12 oclock, it is just close enough to work; on a chebby. Us Mopar guys always degree our cams, to see exactly where it falls in, and to fine-tune it, if needs be. Right? Well, on our hotrods we do.Right? Okay mostly we do..........If the sprocket is out just one tooth, then you get what you got; disappintment.

Very early in my wrenching days,I was asked by my soon-to-be brother-in-law,to see why his teener wouldn't start.Unbeknownest to me she had stripped a few of those pesky nylon teeth,and the cam was way out.Not being the brightest bulb in the pack, I thought the timing had just slipped. I mean, that's what the lite was telling me, so I just cranked the dizzy, until it began to fire.Soon I had it firing, but it sounded flooded, so I held the throttle to WOT. Well, sure enough, it fired up;and stalled the instant I released the butterflies. Well I figured out pretty quick, it was really flooded. So I tried again, this time keeping the throttle open all the way, with one hand, whilst twisting the dizzy around, until I found a happy place and the engine actually ran. With the throttles pegged. At some ridiculously low rpm that I estimate mightabin 400rpm. This was about 1976, so at age 23, I was still pretty clueless.
Slowly, it began to dawn on me that this might be more than a flooded engine with a slipped dizzy.The rest of the story gets fuzzy, but soon I had the T-cover off, and there it was; lotsa missing nylon teeth, and the chain kindof draped over what was left. Thinking what a hero I was gonna be, I procured the parts and went to town. Yup, I degreed that set right there on the workbench, getting the dots lined up. Then when I went to slip the set on, nothing lined up, of course. Well I was just bright enough to know that the crank didn't really have to be in any particular spot, so long as my sprockets didn't lose mesh with the chain. So, okay, no biggy, just rotate the bottom sprocket until it gets started, and then start the top one, right? Well, the cam keyway was nowhere to be found. Oh, wait, I think I see it;way over yonder. Yup, that sweetheart was out several teeth. Well you can guess the rest of the story.
The point of the story is this; teeners will run with the indexs off by "several"teeth. But you will have to be very creative, or incredibly lucky, to find the magic combination to make it happen, and you certainly can't drive it like that.
The engine was in a nearly mint 71 Demon, which, some years later, became my DD. No valves were kissed, so Ima thinking Harold(the owner) was a very lucky guy.
 
On the crank gear the keyways should be marked o,square,triangle or the slot on top rounded,triangle,square there should be corresponding marks on teeth to line up with top gear make sure of that first before you assume its out.Google it if you dont understand.
 
All - agree with fact the best performance expectations come when a cam is properly degree in. However, sometimes you do what you gotta do, dot to dot works and will perform fine.

Here is the Hayes dot-to-dot directions, same for many other Time Chain sets out there. Good luck, and curious to see if this was off at all. Hope it helps.
 

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Suggestion, use the crank bolt to rotate that thing around, before you do, put a bit of anti-seize on it so you have no issues when pulling it back off. A lot easier than strong arming with the balancer. Based on the picture, looks like you have a 3 key hays type sprocket, can help adjust when the torque/hp comes in to help mitigate your suspected converter issues, even if you decide only to go dot-to-dot.
 
Looks like it is off, the O closest to the teeth should be the one you use.
 
keyway on crank should be at 2 o clock .
 
common rookie mistake, the wrong 0 on the crank sprocket was used, so the cam is way advanced, and it will run like a dog, often the intake valves tap the pistons. unbolt the cam sprocket and rotate the crank clockwise to get the other 0 to 12 oclock. do a compression test to check for any bent valves. It will run much much better and stronger than before, and like I said the combo is not bad, just need adjusting
 
Marco is dead on. Make sure the pin didn't shear off the cam. I have heard of this happening with the slotted cam gear. Happened on a Chrysler power build. They blamed it on the cam gear. Get one with a hole instead of a slot. While your there degree it in 4 degrees advanced.
 
Agree with Marko - As it sits in your picture in #85, unbolt the cam sprocket, remove the chain and cam gear. Advance the crank about 30 degrees or at about 2 o'clock to the right and it should line up the dots. Re-assemble and have fun. Only thing is, with your set-up, doubt the valves kissed the pistons. However, if you feel they have, do a leak down test once it is all assemble back together. I bet you want to cruise it though, so I would say lets work through this and see what you think. I would imagine once you bolt it back together, your going to have fun with it.

A thought, 30 degrees total timing is very low, I am a 36 to 38 guy - Why not give it a shot?
 
Glad you found a problem, but the cam you have is still too big for the setup you have.Will it run better? yes.But it can still run even better.
 
that's what I think to so Im putting the lunati 702 in. Anybody need a 284 484/484 cam lol.
I got it out and put lifters in box as pulled out in order
 
As I stated before I have pretty much the same problem and may try the Lunati 10230702LK cam also as far as I could tell around a 2800 stall converter would work well -- any suggestions -- I will also be changing my intake from a single to dual plane
 
Cazbah362 said:
Suggestion, use the crank bolt to rotate that thing around, before you do, put a bit of anti-seize on it so you have no issues when pulling it back off. A lot easier than strong arming with the balancer. Based on the picture, looks like you have a 3 key hays type sprocket, can help adjust when the torque/hp comes in to help mitigate your suspected converter issues, even if you decide only to go dot-to-dot.
Click to expand...

Except do NOT rotate the crank by more than a few degrees, if the cam is not connected to it by the chain. That is a really good way to bend valves! A few means about plus or minus 8 cam degrees,when the dot is correctly located on the crank sprocket, and the #1 piston is at exactly TDC.
With the plugs out, and the cam chain off, you can feel the pistons kiss the valves; if you are careful and watching for it;But it's not something you want to do. And there is usually no reason to go any further anyway.
 
that 284/.484 cam is not too big! I wish U had just realigned it with the correct dot to dot and told us how it now destroys those tiny 215/70-14 tires
 
With that 2000 converter and the mopar cam it will still be a dog below 3500.It will sound like a prostocker an drive like a garbage truck.
 
He wants a garbage truck. It runs all day, every day, and does it's job well...lol.
 
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