Recent content by duster-z

Well I got a chance to set the car back on its suspension the other day. The gap on the side of the door did correct itself to what it was before I started Thankyou GeorgeH for the advice. Here is a picture of it. As for the top gap it did not fix it, so lucky i still had a chunk of the old...

When you fixed it were you able to bend it like it was supposed to be or did you cut it off and weld the old piece on?

Ok that makes sense to me I'll give it a try when I get back out there. Should I take the rocker loose when I do it? Also should I leave the new quarter mostly loose like it is right now or should I clamp it more before I do it? And when I do the other side is it ok to do the rocker like...

So my original thought was to lift it from the frame rails, then before I removed the rocker I put the "sticks" of metal in to make sure the far ends did not bow the middle when i removed the rocker. But if i am understanding what your saying is that the car sagged a bit as soon as I lifted it...

I have the entire frame supported and I did not take panel attached to the rear door post loose I just drilled the welds across the rocker.

I have a full quarter skin I'm putting on my 72 duster and I also did a rocker since it was farther gone than I thought. The problem is the top door gap it is alot bigger than the rest and I'm trying to figure out what might be holding it out. Overall the rest of door gap is barely bigger than...

I think I sent a PM but I am not sure the layout has changed since I was last on here.

I am currently in the process of replacing full quarters on my duster and have a few questions. 1. I was going to make metal patches for the outer rocker (it is like this on both sides) but there is not much left in places to make a template and with out a good reference I don't want it to...

i will look at the idler arm again but i have changed it twice along with the pit-man arm.

Well i did it in high school i changed the spark plugs and i didn't know about the seals on the metal pieces around them and i lost oil and by the time i heard it it was to late. I got oil back in it but the engine seized the next day i went to drive it.

I had heard that uni-lugs have alot of problems but i am running regular wheels now with the right bolt pattern.

I have had this car for a while now thought i fixed the problem multiple times but today it just did it again. History - started as slant-6 car (no problems except engine blew up) - got a donor car for suspension, 1973 dodge dart 340 - installed the 8 1/4 rearend and small block front end...

sorry if i listed them in a confusing order this might be more clear. idle(with headlights): Battery-11.8 Alternator-12.26 Fuse Block-11.2-10.8 high rpm: Battery-15.7 Alternator-over 17 Fuse Block-13.8-14.6 idle(nothing on): Battery-12.54 Alternator-13.37 Fuse Block-12.0-12.5...

ok so i went and took measurements with a very nice multi-meter and the digital voltage gauge is spot on,it is attached to the 12v feed to the instrument cluster. now for the voltages. -to be clear at idle turn signals freeze completely Battery: idle(with headlights)-11.8, high rpm-15.7...

ill try to keep this short first off i have a 72 duster with a 360 v8 in it with electric ignition. i have removed the amp meter since it almost caught my car on fire and i added the electric ignition my self and when i first got the car the voltage regulator went out and i replaced that...