Recent content by ec_co

Thanks for sharing. That's pretty close to what I paid to have my slant six machine work done too, crazy.

I was referring to my post a little higher up where I said I was talking to a guy thinking about doing a slant 6 conversion into a Nissan 240z. I know the original poster is talking about an rx8, I had a 2004.

According to him, because rebuilding an original Z motor would cost more and he wants to do something different and unique that has more power potential

I love this one. I was just talking to somebody yesterday that wants to do a forced induction Slant six setup in his 240Z, I pointed him to a couple of resources so we'll see what happens. I had a 2004 RX8 and it was absolutely a love-hate relationship. I loved the car, loved the styling, lots...

Same experience with Dr Diff, Cass is awesome to deal with, rotors were out of stock last winter and he wouldn't take an order until the parts were in his hands - just because of the awesome experience, I ended up spending about three grand with him and didn't even consider another vendor, I was...

Definitely WJ2 if you zoom in

That's part of the reason for me doing these - they are passable to the average observer, but are obvious reproductions/novelty on closer inspection. This way they are ok for show and no big deal if someone steals it, I can reprint more (which I did for 2 clients that had theirs stolen at shows...

Thanks bro, I'm happy to be a part of your restoration. I just hate the whole shipping and tariff BS you all have to deal with, it's maddening on my end because it literally doubles the price for our Northern friends. I can't wait to see pictures with them painted as well

2nd fender tags are right next to the primary tag, not that far back where your holes are. They were only there in a few special cases - TRANS AM, HEMI FENDER, SPECIAL ORDER, SPECIAL HANDLING or more commonly a continuation of codes from the 1st tag if it was heavily optioned. Second tag also...

PLA should never be used for car parts IMO, too low of a melt point and it doesn't do well with UV. You need high temp filaments like ASA, ABS, etc. I use ASA and have no issues with warpage underhood, but mine don't get close to the engine either. For 3D printing car parts, use ASA or Nylon...

I haven't heard from the member yet + my setup is down for another week or two (I just moved)

Awesome work!! I wonder if this could be CNC machined using the final CAD file? Rapid prototyping is one of the huge advantages.

Indeed, it's where 95%+ of my research was done... I've spent many many hours pouring over threads and documentation over the last 10+ years to hopefully get this right the first time

Blue interior too, it's a bit overwhelming. I'll be adding these lower rocker stripes to help break up the color a bit and my dad had them on. I had them reproduced in Avery vinyl (I have 3 more sets available if anyone is interested).

Total guestimate of 200-210. last item I forgot to add - I had it all balanced, overkill for sure but I'm glad I did because the front of the crank needed a lot more removed than the rear