Search results for query: *

Thanks for sharing. That's pretty close to what I paid to have my slant six machine work done too, crazy.

I was referring to my post a little higher up where I said I was talking to a guy thinking about doing a slant 6 conversion into a Nissan 240z. I know the original poster is talking about an rx8, I had a 2004.

According to him, because rebuilding an original Z motor would cost more and he wants to do something different and unique that has more power potential

I love this one. I was just talking to somebody yesterday that wants to do a forced induction Slant six setup in his 240Z, I pointed him to a couple of resources so we'll see what happens. I had a 2004 RX8 and it was absolutely a love-hate relationship. I loved the car, loved the styling, lots...

Same experience with Dr Diff, Cass is awesome to deal with, rotors were out of stock last winter and he wouldn't take an order until the parts were in his hands - just because of the awesome experience, I ended up spending about three grand with him and didn't even consider another vendor, I was...

Definitely WJ2 if you zoom in

That's part of the reason for me doing these - they are passable to the average observer, but are obvious reproductions/novelty on closer inspection. This way they are ok for show and no big deal if someone steals it, I can reprint more (which I did for 2 clients that had theirs stolen at shows...

Thanks bro, I'm happy to be a part of your restoration. I just hate the whole shipping and tariff BS you all have to deal with, it's maddening on my end because it literally doubles the price for our Northern friends. I can't wait to see pictures with them painted as well

2nd fender tags are right next to the primary tag, not that far back where your holes are. They were only there in a few special cases - TRANS AM, HEMI FENDER, SPECIAL ORDER, SPECIAL HANDLING or more commonly a continuation of codes from the 1st tag if it was heavily optioned. Second tag also...

PLA should never be used for car parts IMO, too low of a melt point and it doesn't do well with UV. You need high temp filaments like ASA, ABS, etc. I use ASA and have no issues with warpage underhood, but mine don't get close to the engine either. For 3D printing car parts, use ASA or Nylon...

I haven't heard from the member yet + my setup is down for another week or two (I just moved)

Awesome work!! I wonder if this could be CNC machined using the final CAD file? Rapid prototyping is one of the huge advantages.

Indeed, it's where 95%+ of my research was done... I've spent many many hours pouring over threads and documentation over the last 10+ years to hopefully get this right the first time

Blue interior too, it's a bit overwhelming. I'll be adding these lower rocker stripes to help break up the color a bit and my dad had them on. I had them reproduced in Avery vinyl (I have 3 more sets available if anyone is interested).

Total guestimate of 200-210. last item I forgot to add - I had it all balanced, overkill for sure but I'm glad I did because the front of the crank needed a lot more removed than the rear

Oh yeah ... Dutra RV10 RDP. Compression is about 9.25. Factory original rods except for one which the Machine shop indicated had a slight bend from the factory, but somehow it still made it to 137,000 MI just fine. ARP studs and bolts ALL the way around. Rebuilt my original oil pump. Spent some...

I'm in the middle of moving and we put some crunch time in the last few days to get the long block together, mated it to the 4spd OD and got it dropped in last night. Today is the big move day and I'll get it into my new garage with a plan of finishing it this winter and back on the road next...

That's him. He's been quite busy lately, but is trying to get me the files so that I can start working on them. I'm in the middle of moving so it's going to take me a couple weeks to get back on track

it's in the works to help complete the design (I believe it's about 90-95% there), keep an eye out

Just another thought, if you're going to have one of those tags made and engraved, you might as well see what the batch cost would be to see if you could resell the extras to recoup your costs.

For the fender tag, you have a couple of options. As noted above, there's that one on eBay that I believe comes from MMC Detroit (you can also Google their website and check out the process and pricing), the metal tags that they reproduce have the correct fonts and design, they run about $400 -...

I saw that video, I'll go back to it again before Sunday. Got the process started today, crank, pistons and Cam in. Finish up on Sunday.

I've watched multiple videos, I guess my best question should have been is there anything different with doing it on a slant six or with an RDP cam.

What are the proper steps for degreeing my cam with a degree wheel (fresh build)? Anything different with doing an RV10 RDP cam or the slant? I haven't done this before, I just want to make sure I don't mess it up

Just curious as I'd seen them listed. Good info, I couldn't find much from a quick search. Thanks!

Is a copper gasket better to use than say the felpro or ??. The bore size seems a better match. If using one, anything else to do or just use it like a normal one? Pardon Our Interruption...

@Chained_360 started the initial design for those clips, I've been trying to get them to restart it or sell me the file so that I can finish it up. They were going to do something a month or so ago, but it's been crickets ever since. So the initial design was started, it just needs a little bit...

I wish Facebook wasn't such a dumpster fire and cancer on society. I deleted it over 10 years ago and I'll never go back.

That and having a solid example to reverse engineer.

Many slicers have a built in tool to help with splitting a print and some can add the joint connectors. I haven't really experimented with it much yet though, just about everything I do fits on my plate currently