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  • It is confusing and not easy to write so someone can understand. Let me try again. Look closely at the rear servo linkage starting at the lever that the servo pushes on following it all the way to the band. On the end that connects to the band there'll be a small piece of metal about 1" x 1" that connects the band to the lever. That's the strut I'm talking about that you need to get out. Once you remove the band adjusting screw entirely you can stick a long flat blade screwdriver up in against where the 1" x 1" metal strut pushes against the band and you push on the band to compress it manually with the screwdriver with one hand and using the other hand push the lever up against the servo the strut will drop out. Once it drops out it'll let the lever drop down away from the servo so you can do the work you need to on it. Reverse the order to assemble it. If your still having problems understanding it try a search on YouTube. I bet you'll find a video on it there showing how it's done. once said this in a post "The rear lever can be rotated out of the way for proper clearance just by removing the strut that connects the band to the lever. You do this by taking the adjuster screw all the way out and using a large long screwdriver to push on the band to tighten it up then pop out the connecting strut. When the strut is removed that allows the lever to drop down out of the way of the servo so you can take the servo apart." Well im having a hell of a time figureing this step out so i can change the rear sevo spring...i guess im not understanding where the strut is at exactly.. i already have a 3.8 front servo ratio lever some i dont need to mess with that, but i just can get the strut out.
    Thanks for taking the time to help me... still new to this and still stumbling along. On to the next part of the project. :)
    Hey Boomer. I never bought an intake from Steve. Just a transmission and a bunch of rearend parts. Sorry
    Hey, fishy68––
    I contacted LXguy about a cast iron 4 bbl intake he listed for sale back before the Indy show in 2012, and he thought you were the one who bought it. He didn't know if you bought it for a project or to resell, so he suggested I contact you. In case you don't remember, it was casting #3698434, but for my purposes that part or a couple other stock 360 intakes would work just fine. I'd appreciate it if you'd let me know if you've got anything as soon as you can. Thanks for your assistance. Clueless Boomer
    Ed it really makes no difference which way you do it cause all it does is hold the piston stationary but I think it's easier to put it underneath the piston so the piston is against the valve body. If the trans. is still in the car make the rod of a lightweight material like solid 3/8" rod aluminum and it's easier to keep the piston in the bore when you put the valve body in place. Use trans assy. lube or Vaseline to hold the piston in place. New sealing rings on the piston also help keep it in place. Sometimes it will stay in place good and sometimes it can be contrary requiring a helper to hold it in place while you put the valve body up in place. Good luck
    Hello Thanks for the replay's in the past.
    Would you inform me about the accumulator blocker rod. If if fabricate one would I want the piston to be held stationary up towards the valve body side or the transmission center side. Please advise
    Thanks Ed
    Well I'm still trying to figure out how this website works, but thanx. I hope to learn alot from it
    Hey 64... Yeah I know where Pana is. About 30 miles east of me. I'm 8 miles S.W. of Litchfield. I had a buddy (Donnie Eller) that lived up somewhere around Irving/Pana. We'd meet in Litchfield every weekend and drag race when we were young and dumb. Bugtussell is where the Clampets on the Beverly Hillbillies were from so I just put it there as a joke.
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