F bodies never came with 8.75's, so if that's in there give it a good look and see what's up.
anyway their beefy axle was the 8.25 and it was slightly wider than the A and had the goofy spring isolators-- you can eliminate that mess, but just something to keep in mind.
^^^ this. so much this.
unless it's got something special cooking, it's a boat anchor. pull the carb and air cleaner. if it's electronic ignition yank the distributor. that stuff will sell, but not much else.
get the correct springs.
extended shackles or front hangers are a half *** band-aid and lead to poor performing suspension and a car that handles like a coal cart.
puh-xactly.
that plus a 390 stroker kit, some aftermarket heads and get ken to regrind the cam. drop it in a gutted dak with a 4 link and go hurt some feelings.
worked with a guy who had basically that set up in an S10 with a wheeze bag smogged up 400 backed by a TH400 that had a B&M hole...
not 550hp!
in a properly prepped dedicated racer, that's about what you'd need. a 3500lb car can run 12.20's with 375hp
a stock dakota curb weight is 3500... so less once gutted...
here's 400hp
https://www.hotrod.com/how-to/mopp-0409-318-engine-build
only instead of the magnum RT heads, use...
and here's the thing: you don't know that there were chevy rods and pistons in that thing! you think there were because somebody told you that. but unless it was together with that ****? it's all hearsay.
you don't and won't know a damn thing about this block until it goes to the machine shop...
you're running a slant, so i wouldn't be too worried about thrashing a trans behind that-- you'd more likely blow up the rear end before killing it.
once you've decided on the aspects of your build-- namely cam and gears-- select an appropriate stall converter and throw a shift kit at it and...
i'll echo the other's here, and say sure you can roll that way.
however you might want to have a look around at some of the other bits while you've got everything apart.
this looks a bit concerning: