Recent content by Mattax

Use the search function at the upper right and for terms try starting with 1966 and connector or 1966 and harness supports. Another option is to buy the assembly drawings from Faxon. https://www.faxonautoliterature.com/1966-Dodge-Dart These are not the best reproductions (reduced and badly...

In general do all the fiddling with IAB and IFR first. When that's been wrung out and the initial throttle position has been wrung out, then restrict the transfer slot if or as needed. Exceptions exist. Skimming above posts I saw Newbomb Turk wrote something to the effect of if the t-slot is...

https://www.web.imperialclub.info/Repair/Lit/Master/214/Page05.htm Correct rear hight is not spec'd. The spec are for the springs themselves. But you can search out a dealer body table that provides a ballpark figure if you really want. Keep in mind that stiffer the rear suspension is...

it could be regardless. Do you have a multi-meter? Any test tools? Does your battery charger have any meters on it? So the starter was cranking the engine but the engine did not start. Yes? Defroster is mechanical so unlikely to be related. A lot depends on what has been done to the car...

Maybe. Depends on whether the issue is drawing down the battery with the engine off, or whether there is too much load with the engine running. Might help. But presumably the fans come on when needed, or maybe a little below. I assume this doesn't have some sort of fancy predictive system...

Your engine produces little power at idle. The fans are clearly making the alternator work hard creating a drag on the engine. This SPAL shows 20 amps at unknown volts, probably something between 12 and 15 but you'll have to look that up. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/spu-ix-30102113 This...

Aw com'on. Pontiac came up with this idea years ago. Oh wait, that was the front bumper.

No. Go with the factory info. High speed cruising with an iron headed LA will be around 50 degrees when using vac advance. The way to test this will be measuring the timing at some convenient rpm and then using a vacuum pump (eg Mityvac) to measure the timing with vacuum applied to the vacuum...

Its in the Master Tech Conference. I'm not sure if the link in my how to article is still valid but the citation is. The sessions are available at mymopar.com in pdf or the on-line imperial club. Nice job! Correct. The distributor information is the specfications for the advance. It does not...

That's pretty much correct. I see in a later post you caught the mistake about of not converting the 1800 rpm of the dist. to crank rpm. Only concept you're missing is the cruising rpm is less than the rpm of max advance. Also keep in mind the tech's had latitude to set the initial a little...

Might just be a website issue.

Will the scoop be taking in air as we see it from the front and the rest is for aero?

Now that aint really right. First of all I see at least one vehicle there with 4WD, although I can't be sure its full time. Second of all several cars there may or may not have limited slip differentials. Finally at least where I grew up, those cars all have snow tires on the rear if not all...

Wachya talkin about? This is a viscous coupler (not mine). Its used in the NP 229 transfer case. I don't recall ever installing just two new tires on with the 'AWD' but sure have run on the spare, and sure have swapped fronts to rears to even out the wear.

You'll have to ask Tuner if he knows when this became fairly well known. The DC literature refers only to possible mechanical causes. So that's why I beleive the guys working there did not know the real reasons. Or maybe better put, they didn't know that it was a major factor. Even today...