Recent content by MoparJoe20

I don't think giving a high HP car to a teen is a big deal- it's teaching them to respect what a car can do to you, One of my classmates in high school was killed in a subaru when he lost control of it at 105mph, it had a 4 cyl boxer with 100hp at best- it looked similar to the Demon in the...

Did it line up before? The only time I ran into this is when trying to swap /6 and small block parts. I'd try to find out which part is wrong first and I wouldn't attach a flywheel with 5 bolts, see if you can scratch up a v8 flexplate and compare it to the crank and flywheel to see whats...

If the shortblock and 596 heads are actually in decent shape use them, I've thrown together similar stuff and it has ran fine. The key to making it work is a 3.91-4.30 gear and higher stall converter, you don't need a $800 PTC 9.5" for this setup, a daaco 2500 stall will work fine, they're...

It will most likely have the large hub, I'm using a 9.5" flywheel from a 67 273 on a '85 318 crank, I had the seller measure it before I paid because I thought 68 was the first year for the larger hub for the flywheel/flexplate.

It's a 67+ 383/340 specific setup, the /6,273,318 cars used plastic bushings, the set I'm running came out of a '70 340 swinger.

How fast do you want to go? What cam/converter and gear do you have now? I wouldn't run 302's if you want performance- I've ran 302's and 587 360 heads- the 587's run much better when the combo is right, both heads used 1.88/1.60's with the bowls ported and the runners cleaned up. My old 73...

The thing in the green circle is the bumper for the clutch pedal, it goes in the big bracket everything bolts to. Do you have bushings or bearings in the pedals? I got the bearings out of mine with a press, I had a friend with a lathe make a pin just smaller than the tube to press the bearings...

It should be fine, one of my friends ran 4.30's in his 451 Dart with 275/60 radials for years and they worked good in the 1/4 when he had a hyd cam, when he switched to a solid he went to a 29x11.5 to keep the RPM's in range, it was running 98-99mph in the 1/8, 117-118mph in the 1/4.

They are good rears but hard to come by, I've seen 2-3 in the past 15 years that weren't in someones driver, I ran 8.75's until about 3 years ago when I started looking around for a budget friendly alternative.

Most of the early V8 fords had 8" rears, the 9" that came in them stock wasn't great either, it had small axle bearings, 28 spline axles, etc. The 8" is decent, I knew of someone running one in a valiant and it worked fine, if you're putting out any power run a 3.70 or taller gear, 4.10's...

I'm not sure if rangers ever got rear disc brakes, I cut down a 97 explorer rear for my car, after the swap I measured the 8.8 in my Dad's 98 Ranger and it's about 57.5" wide and the center isn't offset. The hard part about getting a ranger rear is finding a 4.0 5 speed truck with a good gear...

I went this way with the 8.8 in my Dart, if you can find a ranger 8.8 it's the right width already and the center isn't offset. On another note if you have a mild motor, 300hp or less on street radials I bet a 7.5" would hold up fine - they're much stronger than 7.25 chrysler rears, V8...

I would switch to a smaller cam like the MP 268/272 or the comp XE268, both have worked well for me in small block A bodys with street gears. If it has a decent converter already the MP 280/.474 will run good in it.

Cruise speed or trap speed? 105-110mph is about it for cruising with good stock suspension, I've been to 125-130mph a few times but thats only for 4-5 sec at most. You could probably go 115-120 with that cam and 3.54's.

It's quicker to replace the front pans than to try to patch it up, on the rear wheelhouse I would clean it up and trim back to clean metal then make a patch with 20ga steel and weld it in. When I put the front pans in my Dart I cut around the perimeter with a sawzall then ripped them out by...