I just listed a nice one on ebay tonight!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250730599529&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESELX%3AIT
That's the million question, I don't know the history of the heads. They were a finished set, that I ended up with in a trade. I didn't cc them before I bolted them on?? Could be, that was my 1st thought! I have a set of .020 rocker shafts spacers, I'll give them a try just to see what happens.
Try changing out the secondary vacuum spring, Holley makes a spring kit for tuning the timing of the secondary. While your at it get the quick change top cover, it makes it easier to swap springs. If it has the bare color (Factory) spring it now, it will open really slow, and maybe not fully...
Yeah, thats exactly what I thought also, 18 is a lot, but I degreed the cam, and checked the balancer for TDC, when I assemble the motor. Also swapped dist. when I was trouble shooting. It seems that this a common problem, because of the other posts that I've seen??? I would have never thought...
The 318, 340 and 360 OEM car oil pans have the same sump location, if the 318 clears then the 360 will also. I have a 70 Duster that had a /6 now has a 360, still has /6 K frame, I used Schumacher mounts, fits perfect, headers clear, ect.
I found some others on this site that were having the same problems. Their solution also fixed my problem, a lot of initial timing. It is a fresh rebuild 360, and its been a long time since I built a stock cam motor (340 cam specs). The problem I was having seemed like a valve train problem, or...
I use old 10" Centerlines with a 4.5" backspace, 28x10.5 Hoosiers slicks, I had to roll the quarter panel wheel lips for clearance, but the S/S springs are in the stock location (I flipped the front hangers to lower the ride height). I also use 275x60's street tires on those wheels, they look...
1971-1973 360 blocks can go .060 over, I have a 72 block that's .060 over. If it's not a 71-73 block, try looking for a 87-90 360 truck motor, they have a roller cam, and oil through the head. Good Luck!
I have the same problem on my 360 (70 Duster), the pulleys are the problem on mine. I changed from a underdrive crank pulley to a OEM 6 1/2" od, and it helped alot, but didn't completely solve the problem. The combo that I'm using now still isn't correct, because the crank pullley (6 1/2")...
According to this 1974 "Car and Driver" article the 360 Dart Sport/Duster was the Fastest Sedan in 1974, 121.8 MPH!
http://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/comparisons/archive/chevy_corvette_vs._dodge_dart_pontiac_firebird_chevy_silverado_ford_mustang-comparison_tests/dodge_dart_sport_page_5
I've had a A1 Converter (904) for years, it's on the 2nd motor, with hundreds of 1/8 and 1000' passes. It was custom built for my motor, gears, and car weight, @ the time it was around $500.00??? If it's going to track don't get a cheap converter, it will cost more in the long run when it breaks...
I just did the same thing and needed the same parts.
Dip Stick/Tube: Mancini Racing $23.00
http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/trststdi.html
Hard lines: If have slant 6 lines and want to do a little bending they will work, if not Ebay for around $40.00 + shipping
Kick Down linkage: 80's...