Recent content by nm9stheham

Back from the dead! You guys must be pretty desperate LOL. Seriously, it is very kind of your guys to ask, and for Norm (coloradohill) to gave me call. It took a while for me to get it see below. Been off-air for a few reasons: Yes, having a life is part of it. You know, some of the old...

It is all about the exhaust scavenging effect that starts at mid RPM. If you are always operating up in the mid to high RPM's, then the DCR becomes less important. The exhaust scavenging makes the VE's approach 1 regardless. Drag racing with a higher stall TC is a prefect example; you don't want...

The wife's real statement was: "You put that JUNK on my clean floor?!?"

Now you've put something in my mind that I am going to have to think about... LOL. There has to be a good explanation.

OK on the white mark. Yes that would force you advance the timing 35 degrees to get it to line up at the same point as the new damper. Looks like the green mark on the old damper was correct. No wonder it was hard to crank when hot and idling messed up... you had 45 degrees initial timing in it...

Which timing mark were you using? The white or the green? Just started reading this.... the balancer slipping would be the right suggestion and you found it. Explains why the chop came back.... your 10 BTDC is actually, what.... 50 BTDC? 30 ATDC? And it explains the hard cranking. So tell us...

IIRC , I don't think it is exactly 90 degrees off. You need to find #1 TDC with a piston stop and then remark 0, or apply the timing tape. The tape is very useful

I did this on an odd ball head in the US (Opel CIH type head) and it used old 9 mm valve stems and so I could not find an arbor to fit. So I made the guide bit for a standard hole saw arbor from brass rod stock (so it would wear and not the guides) and turned it down by chucking and spinning it...

At some point, just getting the tool and arbor and turning the spring seat a bit deeper may be easier. You don't need to do a lot here. And maybe you can set the guide OD up for better seals at the same time. And if you have a lot of time on your hands, you just make your own tooling...

That is a lot to put up with RF! That is poor manufacturing work. Yeah, the problems seem to be getting gradually worse. The hydraulics I have are showing excessive leak-down on some of them. You stop the engine, wait 5 minutes and 1-2 of them will leak down all the way if they stopped with...

That is higher than I usually allow. I find them more commonly to be in the 5000 ohm range, + or -, for the main wires, when new. I see this link that discusses spark plug wire resistance in some detail. It indicates that your resistance range is OK, but I never run with them with that high...

Just looking for data points here. The question is what is the maximum acceptable lash closure rate rate (or lobe velocity) for when a solid lifter lash is taken up on the valve opening. This would also the rate for when the valve closes.) This would be measured in inches per degree. I have a...

Lets' make sure we are saying the same thing.... you cannot go to coil bind. You have to maintain at least .060" to coil bind. Which is why I went through the numbers; if you get that 1.650 installed height, then with a 1.100" coil bind, then you have .550" to play with. and the .490" lift...

Thanks very much. That is quite helpful. This was this cam like I was thinking would be a bit better; it looks like it is from the Howards aggressive ramp hydraulic rollers lobes. So it will have something like 10 more duration at .200" lift. Put it in advanced at 106 or 104 ICL. It is listed...

Yes on the 9:1 BUT realize that the factory published compression numbers were exaggerated. if you work the actual dimensional data, it works out that way every time. And it was not just on Mopar engines! Too big of a cam will lower the low RPM torque. That is why the question on how you plan...