Recent content by Ted265

Thanks for the link Dave, got it bookmarked I've got a spare steering box hanging around that I might convert to 16:1 ratio and swap in the next time i have the front end appart. My webers are E37/E48 carbs so the rear carb has the vacuum fitting I just capped it off, will give one of those anti...

1. Some can, early car & 318-3 truck blocks are supposed to have slightly thicker bores but I would sonic test before boring to 4". My 73 block sonic checked pretty good but I opted for a +0.060" bore so I could rebuild it later at 4" if I keep it long enough. 2. Swap the pistons and bush the...

Yeah I figured you were Dave the pom from the old aussie forums. I didn't realise mopar market had shut down until I went back to look for your 16:1 steering gear thread haha Is this information still available on the UK board? I spent a while trying to get the curve for my 265 sorted, scorcher...

Yeah I was taking the piss

No it's the 318 cast on the side of the block - black magic fuckery that stops it responding to modifications like any other engine. 1HP/CI is relatively easy to build, a 400hp 318 is 1.25hp/ci - a little trickier but still within reach of most guys with a bit of knowledge. On the valve...

Cool project, looks like it would go real close to the booster if you ran boosted brakes though. I've found a re-curved factory dizzy with the BIM024 module and coil to be a pretty good cheap setup.

Put the plugs in, drill a small hole in one of them first, then drill a big hole in the plate so it squirts oil on the sprocket & chain instead of the back of the plate. I drilled 0.5mm holes in both plugs - one aimed at the fuel pump eccentric and the other at the chain. You can use a punch to...

Didn't you say you were an engine builder in your other thread? I find it hard to believe you wouldn't have micrometers or even plastigauge on hand while assembling an engine if that's the case. Can you share some more details on this 318 that went 352hp on a hub dyno? I got kb167s & 920 heads...

Des Hammill has some good books - worth the time to read them

Nice, a little more duration and a bit less lift than mine ( Howards SFT 230°@0.050" .574" theoretical lift with 1.6 rocker, 110LSA). Your dyno results will help me settle on the stall speed for the convertor.

I may have missed it but what cam did you go with?

I use sealant on the intake bolts so they don't wick oil up, and a little engine oil on the rest. If using arp bolts use the supplied arp lube.

Don't participate in it - there is an ignore button for a reason. I can see other members frustration though

Dan - just stop mate, you have added near on 3 pages of unrelated BS to this guys thread. This is good advice, heaps of guys are building strokers so im sure you could pick up a 360 crank and set of factory rods for cheap and it allows you to enjoy the car while you plan out & build the engine...

Romac is another Aussie one, more high end than Powerbond, but both are good as far as elastomer dampners go. Romac offer more materials & weights in the same line to so you can get something better tuned to the rpm range your going to run in